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2023 Climbing Gym Gear Review: 7 Must-Haves for an Amazing Session

It’s all too easy to fall into the trap of using “whatever gear” at the climbing gym — just showing up with your crag pack, chalk bag, and beat-up old rock shoes.

2023 climbing gym gear review(Photo/Matt Samet)
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Using second-tier gear or a setup that’s better suited for outdoor climbing can lead to frustration, hassle, and decreased performance indoors. I think of the times I stopped in at my local gym on the way home from the crag but only had my outdoor gear with me. And the hassle of trying to find a cubby for my giant crag pack. Or struggling in the bouldering cave with a stiff pair of edging shoes. And finally, using my chalk bag like a chalk pot and spilling it all over.

I’ve slowly wised up to having specific climbing gym gear. A gym bag or tote ready to go, preloaded with indoor-specific gear. This includes a harness, a belay device, belay glasses, a water bottle, and a little spray bottle for moistening my hands between goes (I have dry skin).

I also bring snacks, a chalk bag, a chalk pot, brush/es, a sling, and a carabiner for max hangs. I bring a weighted vest for pull-ups. Finally, I have at least two pairs of shoes: a softer pair of slippers or Velcro shoes for bouldering and a stiffer pair for roped climbing, especially vertical routes.

Pro Tip No. 1: Gym-wall surfaces and pointy jibs are tough on rock shoes, smoothing out your rubber and poking holes in your toebox. Keep a few pairs of rock gym-only shoes to sacrifice to this wear and tear.

Pro Tip No. 2: Buy an ultralight, gym-only harness; that way, your outdoor harness isn’t loaded up with belay-certification tags.

In recent rounds of testing climbing gym gear, a handful of items have come my way that, though they may overlap with outdoor climbing, also seemed perfect for indoors. Two, in fact — the Mystery Ranch Superset 30 pack and the SCARPA Veloce — were designed only for the gym, showing the importance of this ever-expanding gear niche.

Here are seven must-haves for your 2023 (and beyond) gym season.

2023 Gym Kit: 7 Must-Haves

Five Ten Sleuth Slip-On

Specs

  • Upper Leather and canvas
  • Midsole EVA
  • Outsole Five Ten Stealth Marathon
  • Closure Elastic
  • Sizes Men's and women's
2023 Climbing Gym Gear Review: 7 Must-Haves for an Amazing Session

Pros

  • Collapsible heel converts shoe to slip on
  • Stylish
  • Comfortable canvas and mesh upper

Cons

  • Clip loops on the ankle cuff are tight — they could be bigger for locking carabiners
  • Pull tabs on the tongue are too small for big fingers, but were unnecessary

Mystery Ranch Superset 30

Specs

  • Weight 2.3 lbs.
  • Volume 1,695 cu. in.
  • Dimensions 19.75" x 11" x 10.5"
  • Main materials 1,000D CORDURA nylon with 200D nylon liner
2023 Climbing Gym Gear Review: 7 Must-Haves for an Amazing Session

Pros

  • Excellent organization
  • Clear pockets made finding things easy
  • Comfortable padded back panel
  • Durable 1,000D CORDURA body

Cons

  • Water ingress could be a concern when carrying a computer
  • Water bottle pocket was a tad shallow for taller bottles, though an elastic collar helps

Metolius Razorback Boar’s Hair Brush

Specs

  • Dimensions 7" x ¾" (180 mm x 19 mm)
  • Colors Black, blue, bright green
  • Bristle material Boar's hair
2023 Climbing Gym Gear Review: 7 Must-Haves for an Amazing Session

Pros

  • Soft, plus-size, densely bristled head cleaned all holds well
  • The neck was sturdy and thick — no signs of fatigue
  • Long-lasting — good value for the money

Cons

  • Larger/heavier brush to carry on limit redpoint, though it still fit into brush holders

Osprey Zealot Chalk Bucket

Specs

  • Weight 0.388 lbs.
  • Dimensions 9.65" H X 10.83" W X 7.09" D
  • Main materials bluesign-approved 840D recycled ballistic nylon, PFC/PFAS-free DWR
  • Closure Roll-top with magnets
2023 Climbing Gym Gear Review: 7 Must-Haves for an Amazing Session

Pros

  • Magnetic closure reliably and automatically kept contained chalk between problems
  • Roll-top closure kept the chalk pot cinched down and leak-free in gym bag
  • Big mouth made dipping easy, and unlined interior holds tons of chalk

Cons

  • The vertical brush holder is close to the roll-top, making closing the bucket cumbersome when a brush was stowed there

ROLL Recovery R1

Specs

  • Battery Lithium-ion rechargeable battery
  • Weight 1.2 lbs.
  • Speeds 4
  • Heads 4
  • Power 40 W, 50 W maximum
2023 Climbing Gym Gear Review: 7 Must-Haves for an Amazing Session

Pros

  • Quiet and effective at deep-tissue massage
  • Compact
  • Reliably long battery life
  • Hefty, solid, ergonomic feel and refined aesthetic

Cons

  • Minimal instructions
  • A little heavy to bring to the crag

SCARPA Veloce

Specs

  • Upper Microsuede
  • Midsole 1mm Flexan
  • Outsole 4mm SCARPA S-72
  • Symmetry Slightly asymmetric
  • Closure Single strap
2023 Climbing Gym Gear Review: 7 Must-Haves for an Amazing Session

Pros

  • Light and soft feel with good feedback made them versatile on all angles indoors
  • Notable comfort, especially for wide feet
  • Rounded toebox forces you to be deliberate with your foot placements; good training value

Cons

  • Closure strap could be too short for some
  • Forefoot can pinch wide feet when worn for long durations
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Rhino Repair

Specs

  • Sizes 0.5, 1.7. 3.5, 8, 16 oz.
2023 Climbing Gym Gear Review: 7 Must-Haves for an Amazing Session

Pros

  • Non-greasy and soaks right into the skin
  • Washes off nicely the next morning
  • Pain-relieving properties
  • Pleasant aroma

Cons

  • Can separate in high-heat environments

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