Climbers Soon To Trust Life To Magnets
July 13, 2011, 1:53 pm / Categories: Technology, Climbing
They won’t be available to consumers until July 2012. But this week Black Diamond Equipment announced an unusual and potentially game-changing piece of gear for climbers. The RockLock and GridLock Magnetron carabiners will use “magnetic fields” instead of screw gates or spring-loaded sleeves to lock shut. The company touts the ‘biners as “more secure versus other spring-locking mechanisms on the market” and “a stronger and more reliable system than possible with springs.”
As described in the press materials, unlocking the carabiner requires overcoming the magnetic force between the “locking arms” on the gate and a steel insert in the nose of the carabiner. As the carabiner opens, the magnets repel each other, keeping the tiny locking arms from dragging. This allows it to close and lock again easily and without interference, the company says.
There are two independent actions required to unlock the gate: First, a climber must squeeze the levers on either side of the ‘biner gate. Then, the climber has to push open the gate and “overcome a magnetic force on each side of the carabiner” in order to release the gate. Once open, the opposing magnets will hold the arms apart until you’re ready to clip and “lock” the carabiner again.
A neat innovation for sure. By the looks of it, Black Diamond has put a ton of engineering horsepower into the Magnetron carabiners. But would you trust your life to magnetic fields and tiny locking arms? By next summer, climbers will have that option, trading long-used spring-loaded ‘biners for the magnet-activated type.
More information and a demonstration video are here on BD’s “Journal” blog.
—Stephen Regenold
Cool, but I am not sure this will see wide acceptance in the climbing community – unless its significantly cheaper and lighter (both of which I doubt) than a screwgate, I don’t see why anyone would prefer to trust their life in a magnetic mechanism over the easily understood and perfectly safe Newtonian mechanics of screwgates.
What if the biner is jammed between two points? it could pinch both sides leaving it unlocked.
As with twist gates (not screw) it lock automatically, i don’t want that because ill have to use the little buttons every time i open it even if its on my harness.
it looks a bit chunky.
Is likely to be far too expensive and is in no way a revelation like BD describes it as.
“I think it is clear that anyone that understand and uses locking ‘biners on a regular basis would love to replace their screwlock or ball-lock ‘biners with these.”
Hell no!!!! I like my rigging, locked down and immovable. I’m sure these are bomber but I want to play with them to destruction before I use them anywhere.
I believe they weren’t the first.
Skylotec has one available since March 2011.
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Any word on the weight verses more traditional biners?