10 Rules: Running with your Dog
January 6, 2011, 10:14 am / Categories: Hiking, Running
My dog, Rodney, turns nine years old this spring. In “dog years,” this makes him an old man. But Rodney, who is a Weimaraner and weighs about 100 pounds, is fit and fast, healthy for the most part and still able to run for miles without a break. As a runner, Rodney has been my main training partner for years. Since 2003 — when he was a pup and I was a budding marathoner — the dog and I have run side by side collectively for thousands of miles and on harsh training days up to two hours straight. I’ve learned a few things along the way. From the experience, I offer these “10 Rules of Running with Your Dog.” Follow my tips to get the most out of training with a pooch leashed at your side.
1. Your Run, Not the Dog’s — As a serious runner, I think of my training runs as my own time to get in shape and practice my sport. The dog happens to come along. In other words, I am not “taking the dog on a walk.” I am going for a run (and my dog is coming with). There’s a fundamental difference.
2. Don’t Stop to Sniff — Continuing on the above “control” theme, don’t let your dog rule your run. Don’t let him or her stop to sniff fire hydrants and trees. That kind of activity can be reserved for walks. On the run, the primary activity is. . . running. You want to keep your pace and maintain a steady rhythm. Your dog will learn to love it, don’t worry. They are born to run, and all the sniffing and marking of territory can be saved for another time.
3. Be the Alpha! — Teach your dog to run at your pace and follow your lead. Don’t let him pull you or drag behind. Teach him to heel and observe your pace, your starts and stops, and your commands. This is your run, not the dog’s. You’re in control. Dogs love to follow the Alpha in the pack. Be the Alpha!
4. Keep Your Hands Free — Set up your leash system so that your hands are free. You need to be able to pump your arms and run naturally, so holding a leash in hand is a no-no. I wear a thin nylon belt with a plastic clip buckle. An end of the leash is looped around the belt, keeping the dog close and at my side. My setup is homemade. But companies like Ruff Wear Inc. and Stunt Puppy make belt-type leash systems ready to buy.
5. Short Leash — Your most natural running stride will be accomplished with the dog heeling close and running at your side. My dog runs about two feet to my left, and he’s on a short leash that does not allow him to wander. It takes some training, but most dogs can learn to run at your pace right along side. It is an efficient system for both runner and dog.
6. No Pull — Dogs love to pull, but on a run this is super annoying (and detrimental to the human getting maximum exercise). Do not let your dog get in front of you and pull. Establish this as a rule with your dog early on.
7. Corrective Collar — If your canine cannot resist pulling, look into a corrective collar. I use a “choke chain”-type collar on Rodney with short, dull spikes. If he pulls too hard off course, there’s a “corrective sensation” that quickly gets his attention and puts him on track.
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I’m not so down with the hip leash because of the possibility of a squirrel or cat that might cross our path. I don’t want to end up face down on the concrete from the unsuspecting jerk that might come.
Also not cool with the metal barbed collar. They also make “choke” collars that are all cloth that give the same results but more humanely.
As for breaks, I’m not going to take my dog on a 2 hour run and never let her stop. I give her a 10 count. Once I reach 10 the break is done if she hasn’t already done or is doing her business. Of course she can try and abuse the ability to stop and so after I know she’s empty the rest opportunities stop.
Everything sounds great except the pronged choke collar. You talk about training your dog but use negative reinforcement with the collar. A better alternative would be a head halti. It fits over their mussel, similar to the way they “leash” horsed(minus the bit). If the dog pulls their head just turns around. The easiest way to control an animal or person is by their head. It also takes very little energy for the runner. I would also suggest using treats when you start out to let the dog know when they are doing what you want with a treat(positive reinforcement).
“choke” collars are not at all more humane than “pinch” collars with the spikes. The intent is to correct the dog with a quick and strong enough sensation that will get their attention. Not to cut off their air supply by constricting their throat. Dogs have very tough skin around their necks – hence this is how their mothers lift them as puppies. The pinch collars do not harm them and are very humane for the most “enthusiastic” canines.
The “Pet Zen Pack-It-Out Waste Containment” from Backcountryk9 is awesome for picking up after your dog on the go. I clip it to his harness and he can carry his own mess until we get to a trash can.
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My advice would be to train your dog using skijor and dogsled commands. This way when it comes wintertime your dog doesn’t get confused between pull/don’t pull.