The famed Arc’teryx minimalist belay parka returns.
Hardcore alpinists and rock climbers heralded the Arc’teryx Nuclei FL as a phenomenal, focused belay parka. It was light, durable, and offered impeccable fit and quality.
But the brand mysteriously pulled the parka from its lineup in 2017 — much to the dismay of the climbing faithful.
This year, however, in the face of customer pressure, Arc’teryx relaunched a lighter and more durable Nuclei FL. We’ve been testing a sample for 2 months during winter rock climbing and snowshoe hikes into the Colorado mountains.
In short: The Arc’teryx Nuclei FL is a synthetic belay parka with all the goodies climbers need and nothing they don’t. Impeccable fit, ultralow weight, high compressibility, and versatility across a wide swath of conditions make the Nuclei FL a piece that will rarely get left behind in winter.
Arc’teryx Nuclei FL Parka Review
For stop-and-go activities from the 40s down to the upper 30s (Fahrenheit), the Nuclei FL proved as warm as you’d expect from a parka. With a light base layer underneath, belaying or resting between burns on the bouldering project felt comfortable, even with moderate winds.
Even in temps down to about freezing, the Nuclei FL regulated heat effectively with just the main zipper for ventilation. Snowshoeing from 10,000 to 12,000 feet with a midweight base layer and temps in the 20s, I had to open that zipper wide to dump heat. But I never had to take the parka off.
And once in the open with strong winds and copious spindrift, I zipped up the parka, put on the hood, and my temperature remained constant. After stuffing, the Nuclei FL’s loft consistently returned.
I had the constant thought that other brands should take note of patterning off the Nuclei FL for climbing-specific jackets. When conditions called for it, the Nuclei FL layered well under heavier parkas, and the layer-to-layer slip factor was acceptable.
However, while I appreciated the included stuff sack was the right size for frustration-free packing, a self-stuffing, non-zipped pocket seems a better match for the minimalist ethos.
Arc’teryx Nuclei FL: Fit
I am 6′ tall and weigh 167 pounds, and it was hard for me to imagine a better-fitting midweight parka for climbing. Over base layers and at times an additional low-bulk insulating layer, the Nuclei FL felt patterned around me in a climbing position.
The torso girth was just right — not constricting in the slightest, and no excess material to billow above the harness. And the shoulders, which often feel tight across the back, allowed free arm movements in all directions and didn’t pull the lower hem upward.
Likewise, the sleeves were just long enough to keep my wrists covered, even when I extended my arms overhead. Even the sleeve cuff girth felt perfect for my small wrists.
Meanwhile, the Arc’teryx StormHood has always been among the best for helmet compatibility, and it follows suit on the Nuclei FL. A single elastic cord lock on the back of the hood kept it in place regardless of wind or head movements.
The dropped rear hem with dual side elastic cord locks laid flat under my climbing harness and stayed there no matter how I contorted my body. And the front and side panels were short enough to not interfere with racked gear or belays.
I would prefer a double pull on the main zipper. But the Nuclei’s shortened front panel mostly nullified the need for one.
Arc'teryx Nuclei FL Parka Specs
Durability Test
After weeks of rock climbing on both limestone and granite, and abundant hours under pack straps, the Nuclei FL shell showed no signs of abrasion. That’s surprising to me, given the thin, almost translucent fabric.
The shell withstood branches and an accidental snag on wire fencing without puncturing. But the material is wispy, and like other extremely light materials, it requires a certain level of care.
Of course, my testing period lasted only 2 months. But I kept the Nuclei FL in almost constant use, which gives me confidence in the parka’s long-term durability compared to other superlight insulating midlayers.
Arc’teryx Nuclei FL Parka: Good Buy
For the trim climber, it’s hard to beat the Nuclei FL as a “whatever” parka. It had a wide range of uses across an array of winter temperatures and conditions.
Plus, it’s superlight, compressible, and fits great. Yes, there are warmer, more breathable, and more durable options. But if weight is a major factor and I can only choose one insulating midlayer, the Arc’teryx Nuclei FL is the current winner.
