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Chris Warner Becomes 2nd American to Summit All 14 Highest Peaks

It's a bit hard to believe: In 2023, Chris Warner has become just the second American to climb all 14 of the world's highest peaks.

Chris Warner and his partner Chirring Sherpa on the summit of Manaslu on September 20, when Warner became the second American to summit all 14 of the world's tallest peaks; (photo; 8K Expeditions)
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This story originally appeared on ExplorersWeb.

On September 20, Manaslu saw a major wave of climbers arrive on its icy summit.

Most people reaching the top of that Himalayan mountain — one of only 14 in the world taller than 8,000 m — were commercial clients with maybe a few big mountains checked off their personal lists.

And then there was Chris Warner, who became just the second American to summit all 14 of these dangerous mountains in a single lifetime. Ed Viesturs became the first American in 2005, climbing all of the peaks without supplemental oxygen.

For Warner, his summit of Manaslu marked the end of a quest that spanned 24 years. It includes some remarkable high-altitude climbs, including a 14-hour solo of Shishapangma in 2001 and new alpine-style routes on Ama Dablam and Shivling. Warner started to join commercial expeditions after he retired from work, at a different stage in his climbing life.

“Just for the fun of it,” Warner told ExplorersWeb.

Summit Partners: Warner and Chirring Sherpa

For most of the mountains, Warner mostly climbed alongside Chirring Sherpa. They are usually faster than other climbers on the mountain, and today’s push was no different.

“We left Camp 3 at 9 p.m., climbed 1,500m, topped out at 3:20 a.m., and were back in Base Camp at 10 a.m.,” Warner told ExplorersWeb. “Conditions were perfect, and the extra bit to the true summit is surprisingly easy and short!”

Warner has always been forthright about his current style: well-supported and with supplementary O2.

“Now I don’t have to worry about anything other than enjoying the mountains, and I am having a blast,” he said.

This summer, Norwegian climber Kristin Harila and her partner Tenjin Lama Sherpa set a new record for the 14 highest peaks, summiting all of them in less than 6 months.

a mountaineer on a summit ridgeline

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