Climbers Rejoice as National Park Service Nixes Plan to Ban Fixed Anchors

Climbers worried about the future of their sport in wilderness areas can take a big sigh of relief. On Wednesday, the National Park Service (NPS) decided against a plan to prohibit fixed anchors — the gear that climbers use to protect themselves from falls. Climbing advocates had fought against the proposal since November 2023, when the NPS first announced the proposal.

If implemented, the ban would have made it illegal for climbers to use slings, pins, and bolts in all federally designated wilderness areas. That includes much of American climbing, from iconic big-wall climbs in Yosemite and Zion national parks to remote backcountry adventures in Wyoming and Washington.

However, in a Wednesday statement shared with GearJunkie, the NPS said it would not pursue the ban. Climbers responded quickly, galvanized by groups like Access Fund and the American Alpine Club.

“The NPS has discontinued the development of this proposed guidance,” an NPS spokesperson said. “Park leaders will continue to manage climbing activities in wilderness on a park-by-park basis consistent with applicable law and policy, including the Wilderness Act.”

Anchor Ban Proposal United Climbers in Protest

Over the last year, climbers responded quickly to the possibility of losing fixed anchors in wilderness areas. Galvanized by climbing groups like Access Fund and the American Alpine Club and supported by organizations like Outdoor Recreation Roundtable, American climbers made their voices heard.

In November 2023, when outdoor industry representatives lobbied Congress to pass sweeping legislation like the EXPLORE Act, professional climber Sasha DiGiulian was there, too. Holding up a metal anchor in a House committee hearing, DiGiulian explained why the NPS proposal threatened her sport.

“As a climber, it’s incredibly pressing,” DiGiulian told GearJunkie before her testimony. “The iconic climbs of our history, that have existed for 60 years, are now facing uncertainty. It’s a huge threat.”

Even some politicians got involved. In September 2024, a bipartisan group of 14 senators sent a letter to the Secretaries of the Departments of Agriculture and the Interior. The senators said they were worried the policy change would strain already limited federal budgets and endanger climbers.

Access Fund, a nonprofit dedicated to protecting American climbing areas, issued a statement Wednesday applauding the decision to keep climbing a part of wilderness areas.

“This decision protects sustainable Wilderness climbing and America’s climbing legacy, which is good for our health, rural economies, and the environment,” Access Fund Deputy Director Erik Murdock said. “We are thrilled that our federal leaders listened to the voices of everyday climbers, local leaders, small business owners, mountain guides, U.S. Senators and Representatives, and so many people who value the intersection between recreation and conservation.”

A bipartisan group of 14 U.S. Senators led by Senators Maria Cantwell and John Boozman sent a letter to the Secretaries of the Departments of Agriculture and Interior.

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