Calling all female trad climbers: The Petzl Luna Harness is contoured to a woman’s physique and padded in all the right places. We reviewed the brand’s updated product to see how it fares on multi-pitch climbs and long alpine routes.
Redesigned for 2018, Petzl released the Luna harness for hardcore trad climbing women. Historically, female climbers have been forced to fit into men’s climbing harnesses, receiving painful hot spots from ill-fitting waistbands after hours on routes.
The Luna, $80, solves this problem with a wide waistband contoured to conform to the lower back, with a longer rise for better hip placement and plenty of padding.
While women’s-specific harnesses are not new to the outdoor industry, those designed specifically for trad climbing and mountaineering are few and far between.
I tested the Luna in the Sierras for two weeks. After multiple alpine ascents and more than 30 pitches of climbing, I found it outperformed my expectations.
In short: Petzl’s redesigned Luna harness answers the needs of female trad climbers with a waist belt and leg loops shaped to a woman’s body. Plus, it has plenty of gear loops for carrying all the myriad equipment the sport demands. It’s comfortable, adjustable, and lightweight — leaving nothing to be desired after a long day in the mountains.
Comfy Harness Design: Petzl Luna
The Luna’s waist and leg loop padding is extremely unique. It’s pliable and spongy to the touch without being bulky.
The waistband is designed for a woman’s wider hips and naturally sits where it’s most comfortable on the lower back. And the leg loops are adjustable, ideal for different body types and adding layers.
I appreciate Petzl’s double back buckle feature, which makes it easy to use the bathroom without removing the entire harness.
The Luna stays in place even through difficult climbing movements and after hours at hanging belays. In addition, the integrated Endoframe technology makes for excellent weight distribution.
Review: Petzl Luna Trad Climbing Multipitch Harness
I first put the harness to the test on the 12-pitch Regular Route on Fairview Dome in Tuolumne Meadows. The harness was comfortable while leading a sustained finger crack, working through a difficult lie-back, and sending two small roofs.
The route was crowded, so I avoided using the standard belays and instead set up hanging belays in multiple places. The harness stayed in position on my hips and back while flaking out rope and bringing up my second. I never had to adjust the leg loops or tighten up the waist belt, which was a welcomed attribute compared to other climbing harnesses I’ve worn.
No Gear Left Behind
I also found the $80 Luna harness easily carries all the gear you need. Five gear loops in total meant I didn’t need to pare down my cam rack. The two large front loops are rigid and ideal for keeping your cams in order and accessible while climbing. I found it was extremely easy to clip and unclip carabiners.
The two rear equipment loops are softer and more appropriate for slings or for stashing retrieved gear while climbing second. Also, use of these loops made it comfortable to carry a backpack. The single rear equipment loop is ideal for hanging belay station equipment, your rappel device, or climbing shoes.
The best thing about the Luna harness? It stays in place while carrying a full trad rack.
Fit for All Styles
I also tested the Luna harness on an alpine ascent of Cathedral Peak. Although it’s not the lightest alpine harness on the market, weighing in at 470 grams, it fit nicely into my pack.
Its comfort far outweighs the trivial bulk compared to ultralight alpine harnesses. I wore the harness with a backpack and was able to nimbly scramble up class 5 rock.
The Luna is easy to adjust. Unlike some simpler styles, though, you have to be cognizant to double back the leg loops and the waistband.
Scrambling across the granite summit and navigating scree fields on the descent was no problem in the Luna harness. I found it to be an ideal alpine harness, with materials durable enough to handle the rugged elements.
The harness is also compatible with the Caritool Evo holder for ice screws and tools, making it a worthwhile companion on mixed or ice climbs.
Final Impressions: Luna Review
I’ve dubbed the Luna my go-to harness after two weeks in the Sierras and nearly nonstop climbing. Ideal for multi-pitch and alpine routes, I also intend on wearing it to the crag and the gym. The comfort is simply unbeatable, and I can imagine it will perform well while projecting.
Ladies, if you’re looking for an affordable and extremely comfortable trad climbing harness, the Luna is hard to beat. It will help you achieve your big mountain goals in style — and it’s just as useful at the gym or the crag.
