Using second-tier gear or a setup that’s better suited for outdoor climbing can lead to frustration, hassle, and decreased performance indoors. I think of the times I stopped in at my local gym on the way home from the crag but only had my outdoor gear with me. And the hassle of trying to find a cubby for my giant crag pack. Or struggling in the bouldering cave with a stiff pair of edging shoes. And finally, using my chalk bag like a chalk pot and spilling it all over.
I’ve slowly wised up to having specific climbing gym gear. A gym bag or tote ready to go, preloaded with indoor-specific gear. This includes a harness, a belay device, belay glasses, a water bottle, and a little spray bottle for moistening my hands between goes (I have dry skin).
I also bring snacks, a chalk bag, a chalk pot, brush/es, a sling, and a carabiner for max hangs. I bring a weighted vest for pull-ups. Finally, I have at least two pairs of shoes: a softer pair of slippers or Velcro shoes for bouldering and a stiffer pair for roped climbing, especially vertical routes.
Pro Tip No. 1: Gym-wall surfaces and pointy jibs are tough on rock shoes, smoothing out your rubber and poking holes in your toebox. Keep a few pairs of rock gym-only shoes to sacrifice to this wear and tear.
Pro Tip No. 2: Buy an ultralight, gym-only harness; that way, your outdoor harness isn’t loaded up with belay-certification tags.
In recent rounds of testing climbing gym gear, a handful of items have come my way that, though they may overlap with outdoor climbing, also seemed perfect for indoors. Two, in fact — the Mystery Ranch Superset 30 pack and the SCARPA Veloce — were designed only for the gym, showing the importance of this ever-expanding gear niche.
Here are seven must-haves for your 2023 (and beyond) gym season.
2023 Gym Kit: 7 Must-Haves
- Upper: Leather and canvas
- Midsole: EVA
- Outsole: Five Ten Stealth Marathon
- Closure: Elastic
- Sizes: Men's and women's
Pros
- Collapsible heel converts shoe to slip on
- Stylish
- Comfortable canvas and mesh upper
Cons
- Clip loops on the ankle cuff are tight — they could be bigger for locking carabiners
- Pull tabs on the tongue are too small for big fingers, but were unnecessary
- Weight: 2.3 lbs.
- Volume: 1,695 cu. in.
- Dimensions: 19.75" x 11" x 10.5"
- Main materials: 1,000D CORDURA nylon with 200D nylon liner
Pros
- Excellent organization
- Clear pockets made finding things easy
- Comfortable padded back panel
- Durable 1,000D CORDURA body
Cons
- Water ingress could be a concern when carrying a computer
- Water bottle pocket was a tad shallow for taller bottles, though an elastic collar helps
- Dimensions: 7" x ¾" (180 mm x 19 mm)
- Colors: Black, blue, bright green
- Bristle material: Boar's hair
Pros
- Soft, plus-size, densely bristled head cleaned all holds well
- The neck was sturdy and thick — no signs of fatigue
- Long-lasting — good value for the money
Cons
- Larger/heavier brush to carry on limit redpoint, though it still fit into brush holders
- Weight: 0.388 lbs.
- Dimensions: 9.65" H X 10.83" W X 7.09" D
- Main materials: bluesign-approved 840D recycled ballistic nylon, PFC/PFAS-free DWR
- Closure: Roll-top with magnets
Pros
- Magnetic closure reliably and automatically kept contained chalk between problems
- Roll-top closure kept the chalk pot cinched down and leak-free in gym bag
- Big mouth made dipping easy, and unlined interior holds tons of chalk
Cons
- The vertical brush holder is close to the roll-top, making closing the bucket cumbersome when a brush was stowed there
- Power Range: 1,800-3,200
- Attachments: 4
- Battery: 7 hours
- Weight: 1.2 lbs.
Pros
- Quiet and effective at deep-tissue massage
- Compact
- Reliably long battery life
- Hefty, solid, ergonomic feel and refined aesthetic
Cons
- Minimal instructions
- A little heavy to bring to the crag
- Upper: Microsuede
- Midsole: 1mm Flexan
- Outsole: 4mm SCARPA S-72
- Symmetry: Slightly asymmetric
- Closure: Single strap
Pros
- Light and soft feel with good feedback made them versatile on all angles indoors
- Notable comfort, especially for wide feet
- Rounded toebox forces you to be deliberate with your foot placements; good training value
Cons
- Closure strap could be too short for some
- Forefoot can pinch wide feet when worn for long durations
- Sizes: 0.5, 1.7. 3.5, 8, 16 oz.
Pros
- Non-greasy and soaks right into the skin
- Washes off nicely the next morning
- Pain-relieving properties
- Pleasant aroma
Cons
- Can separate in high-heat environments