Home > Climbing

2023 Climbing Gym Gear Review: 7 Must-Haves for an Amazing Session

It’s all too easy to fall into the trap of using “whatever gear” at the climbing gym — just showing up with your crag pack, chalk bag, and beat-up old rock shoes.
2023 climbing gym gear review(Photo/Matt Samet)
Support us! GearJunkie may earn a small commission from affiliate links in this article. Learn More

Using second-tier gear or a setup that’s better suited for outdoor climbing can lead to frustration, hassle, and decreased performance indoors. I think of the times I stopped in at my local gym on the way home from the crag but only had my outdoor gear with me. And the hassle of trying to find a cubby for my giant crag pack. Or struggling in the bouldering cave with a stiff pair of edging shoes. And finally, using my chalk bag like a chalk pot and spilling it all over.

I’ve slowly wised up to having specific climbing gym gear. A gym bag or tote ready to go, preloaded with indoor-specific gear. This includes a harness, a belay device, belay glasses, a water bottle, and a little spray bottle for moistening my hands between goes (I have dry skin).

I also bring snacks, a chalk bag, a chalk pot, brush/es, a sling, and a carabiner for max hangs. I bring a weighted vest for pull-ups. Finally, I have at least two pairs of shoes: a softer pair of slippers or Velcro shoes for bouldering and a stiffer pair for roped climbing, especially vertical routes.

Pro Tip No. 1: Gym-wall surfaces and pointy jibs are tough on rock shoes, smoothing out your rubber and poking holes in your toebox. Keep a few pairs of rock gym-only shoes to sacrifice to this wear and tear.

Pro Tip No. 2: Buy an ultralight, gym-only harness; that way, your outdoor harness isn’t loaded up with belay-certification tags.

In recent rounds of testing climbing gym gear, a handful of items have come my way that, though they may overlap with outdoor climbing, also seemed perfect for indoors. Two, in fact — the Mystery Ranch Superset 30 pack and the SCARPA Veloce — were designed only for the gym, showing the importance of this ever-expanding gear niche.

Here are seven must-haves for your 2023 (and beyond) gym season.

2023 Gym Kit: 7 Must-Haves

Five Ten Sleuth Slip-On

Specs

  • Upper Leather and canvas
  • Midsole EVA
  • Outsole Five Ten Stealth Marathon
  • Closure Elastic
  • Sizes Men's and women's
2023 Climbing Gym Gear Review: 7 Must-Haves for an Amazing Session

Pros

  • Collapsible heel converts shoe to slip on
  • Stylish
  • Comfortable canvas and mesh upper

Cons

  • Clip loops on the ankle cuff are tight — they could be bigger for locking carabiners
  • Pull tabs on the tongue are too small for big fingers, but were unnecessary

Mystery Ranch Superset 30

Specs

  • Weight 2.3 lbs.
  • Volume 1,695 cu. in.
  • Dimensions 19.75" x 11" x 10.5"
  • Main materials 1,000D CORDURA nylon with 200D nylon liner
2023 Climbing Gym Gear Review: 7 Must-Haves for an Amazing Session

Pros

  • Excellent organization
  • Clear pockets made finding things easy
  • Comfortable padded back panel
  • Durable 1,000D CORDURA body

Cons

  • Water ingress could be a concern when carrying a computer
  • Water bottle pocket was a tad shallow for taller bottles, though an elastic collar helps

Metolius Razorback Boar’s Hair Brush

Specs

  • Dimensions 7" x ¾" (180 mm x 19 mm)
  • Colors Black, blue, bright green
  • Bristle material Boar's hair
2023 Climbing Gym Gear Review: 7 Must-Haves for an Amazing Session

Pros

  • Soft, plus-size, densely bristled head cleaned all holds well
  • The neck was sturdy and thick — no signs of fatigue
  • Long-lasting — good value for the money

Cons

  • Larger/heavier brush to carry on limit redpoint, though it still fit into brush holders

Osprey Zealot Chalk Bucket

Specs

  • Weight 0.388 lbs.
  • Dimensions 9.65" H X 10.83" W X 7.09" D
  • Main materials bluesign-approved 840D recycled ballistic nylon, PFC/PFAS-free DWR
  • Closure Roll-top with magnets
2023 Climbing Gym Gear Review: 7 Must-Haves for an Amazing Session

Pros

  • Magnetic closure reliably and automatically kept contained chalk between problems
  • Roll-top closure kept the chalk pot cinched down and leak-free in gym bag
  • Big mouth made dipping easy, and unlined interior holds tons of chalk

Cons

  • The vertical brush holder is close to the roll-top, making closing the bucket cumbersome when a brush was stowed there

ROLL Recovery R1

Specs

  • Power Range 1,800-3,200
  • Attachments 4
  • Battery 7 hours
  • Weight 1.2 lbs.
2023 Climbing Gym Gear Review: 7 Must-Haves for an Amazing Session

Pros

  • Quiet and effective at deep-tissue massage
  • Compact
  • Reliably long battery life
  • Hefty, solid, ergonomic feel and refined aesthetic

Cons

  • Minimal instructions
  • A little heavy to bring to the crag

SCARPA Veloce

Specs

  • Upper Microsuede
  • Midsole 1mm Flexan
  • Outsole 4mm SCARPA S-72
  • Symmetry Slightly asymmetric
  • Closure Single strap
2023 Climbing Gym Gear Review: 7 Must-Haves for an Amazing Session

Pros

  • Light and soft feel with good feedback made them versatile on all angles indoors
  • Notable comfort, especially for wide feet
  • Rounded toebox forces you to be deliberate with your foot placements; good training value

Cons

  • Closure strap could be too short for some
  • Forefoot can pinch wide feet when worn for long durations
Best Women's Climbing Shoes

The Best Women's Climbing Shoes of 2024

We tested and reviewed the best women's climbing shoes of 2024, including picks from La Sportiva, SCARPA, and more. Read more…

Rhino Repair

Specs

  • Sizes 0.5, 1.7. 3.5, 8, 16 oz.
2023 Climbing Gym Gear Review: 7 Must-Haves for an Amazing Session

Pros

  • Non-greasy and soaks right into the skin
  • Washes off nicely the next morning
  • Pain-relieving properties
  • Pleasant aroma

Cons

  • Can separate in high-heat environments

Subscribe Now

Get adventure news and gear reviews in your inbox!