The Best Approach Shoes of 2023

When the climbing objective calls for tough and sturdy footwear, lace up the TX4s.

La Sportiva’s TX series dominates the approach shoe market, and the TX4 ($159) is the burliest of the lot. Combining a maximally stable sole with a robust leather upper, the TX4s are the best approach shoes for hauling heavy loads through rugged terrain.

When carrying a full pack of climbing gear and slogging through a talus field, supportive shoes are essential. The TX4s deliver the protection and stiffness of traditional hiking boots in a relatively lightweight package. If you’re seeking even more support and protection, the TX4s are also available with a mid-ankle cut and a GORE-TEX membrane ($209).

We recently wore TX4s while scrambling over volcanic talus in central Oregon, and they worked like a charm. The outsole is grippy enough to smear and edge with confidence, but it’s also thick enough to prevent foot fatigue. Even when walking on jagged basalt, the sharp contours of the rock didn’t hurt our feet.

The TX4s have a precise climbing zone and a streamlined shape. We climbed several pitches of low fifth-class cracks, and the leather upper was unaffected. Footjamming takes a toll on most approach shoes, but the TX4 is one of the few models that can handle it.

Even without a waterproof membrane, the leather uppers kept our feet dry in shallow puddles and light rain. As with most leather shoes, the TX4s lack ventilation, and our feet got sweaty in these when the conditions rose above 70 degrees Fahrenheit. If you’re prone to warm feet and don’t mind sacrificing waterproofing, the La Sportiva TX3 is a good breathable alternative.

Overall, we think these are the best approach shoes for rugged terrain.

The Black Diamond approach shoe lineup has hugely expanded in recent years. One of the standout models in the Session Suede ($150) — a “performance lifestyle” shoe designed for the crag and city streets alike.

We’ve worn the Session to the climbing gym and the sport crag, and we’ve even carried it up a few multi-pitch routes. Creating an urban/approach shoe hybrid isn’t easy, but Black Diamond has made an impressive attempt with the Session.

Ultimately, this shoe is built for relatively casual approaches. The minimalist suede upper and soft, flexible structure isn’t ideal for long hikes in rugged terrain. The mid and outsoles are thin, and the bottom of your feet will feel every root and boulder through these shoes. Over many miles, the flimsy profile is a recipe for sore feet.

Still, for such a light and packable shoe, the Session can handle moderate approaches and short scrambles fairly well. It takes up minimal space on a harness and works perfectly as a multi-pitch descent shoe. Plus, it’s cheaper than most other approach shoe options.

The Session has a collapsible heel, so you can easily slip it on and off without untying the laces. When it comes time to belay your partner or move the crash pads around, quick footwear transitions are much appreciated.

Overall, the Black Diamond Session Suede is one of the best approach shoes for city dwellers, gym-goers, and weekend warriors who want to show up to the crag in style.

While most high-quality approach shoes are priced between $160 and $190, the La Sportiva Boulder X ($149) offers high performance and long-term durability at a slightly reduced price point.

The Boulder X is one of the cheapest shoes on this list and also one of the most rugged. The plush padded tongue and heel-hugging shape provide a cozy feel that most approach shoes don’t.

We wore this shoe as a daily driver for a full year, and the leather upper held together without issue. Thanks to the thick padded construction, the Boulder X can function as a warm, three-season option. In the summer months, the lack of breathability is apparent, as our feet sometimes overheat in these on longer hikes.

Ridge scrambles and steep trails are no problem for the Boulder X, but they aren’t the best option for fifth-class climbing. The shoe sits relatively high on a thick foam platform, which limits feel and is not ideal for precise and technical footwork.

In a men’s size 10, the Boulder X weighs well over 1 pound per shoe. They’re clunky, too, so we don’t recommend carrying these up a multi-pitch.

Overall, if you’re looking for an approach shoe that will handle endless miles of trails without breaking the bank, the Boulder X is a winner.

The North Face Cragstone Pro ($169) is built for scrambling over rocky terrain, but it’s notably different than almost every other option in the approach shoe category. It’s the only approach shoe we’ve ever seen with a Boa lacing system, and the upper is so porous that you can see right through it.

We received a pair of the Cragstones a few months ago, and we felt immediately skeptical upon opening the box. Most approach shoes sport burly leather uppers and ankle-to-toe shoe laces. The Cragstone Pro has neither. Instead of being robust and traditional, the Cragstone is innovative and ultralight. After several hikes to the crag on loose trails and steep talus, it has proven its worth as a bonafide approach shoe, even if its unique traits call long-term durability into question.

In the trail-running world, BOA lacing systems are commonplace. In many ways, approaching a crag is a lot like trail running. Both take place on variable surfaces, and both require reliable grip and a secure, supportive fit.

Unlike trail running though, climbing approaches require heavy packs and technical movement on steep terrain. The Cragstone’s minimalist design isn’t ideal for either, but it does have certain benefits that justify the drawbacks.

On hot days, the Cragstone’s fully permeable spectra upper breathes exceptionally well. It dries quickly too. Our tester wore the Cragstone while walking through a dew-laden field, and it was soaked by the time he arrived at the crag. After a few hours in the sun, it was completely dry. A traditional leather shoe would have taken much longer to shed its moisture.

Boa lacing systems always add convenience, but we’re not totally convinced that they’re right for approach shoes. It’s easy to imagine the BOA dial getting smashed in a talus field or crunched while foot jamming. It just feels a little too delicate for this particular application, and once it’s broken, there’s no way to tighten the shoe.

In the case of the Cragstone, the BOA has held up fairly well to our initial testing — but it hasn’t convinced us to ditch laces for good.

Underfoot, an edging plate adds moderate stiffness and the Vibram outsole provides plentiful friction. There’s no “climbing zone” under the toe, but the Cragstone is plenty capable of tackling fourth-class slabs and moderate chimneys.

For fast-paced alpine missions in warm weather, the Cragstone Pro is a winner.

Italian mountain-footwear brand Garmont is perhaps best known for its ultralight ski boots. In recent years, the brand has branched out into the North American market with a range of hiking, mountaineering, and approach shoes. During our testing for this roundup, we tried two approach shoe styles from Garmot’s Dragontail line, and both performed exceptionally well.

The Dragontail series includes a range of shoes that share basic design elements but offer very different features. We tested the Dragontail Tech GTX ($200) and the Dragontail Limited Edition ($140). The Tech GTX is a waterproof approach shoe with a stiff outsole and a rugged Michelin Offroad outsole. The Limited Edition has midrange flex and comes with Garmont’s own Diamante outsole.

We tested both Dragontail styles on a big wall climbing trip in Zion National Park. Big wall climbing involves very heavy packs and lots of time spent standing on your feet in uncomfortable nylon ladders. Through all of this, the Dragontails offered plenty of support and protection.

The Tech GTX in particular is an ideal choice for long approaches, rocky terrain, and aid climbing. It’s as stiff as a board and the rubber outsole is both sticky and durable. The only major downside is the weight. At 2 pounds, 3 ounces (pair, men’s size 9.5), the Tech GTX is significantly heavier than similar burly options.

The Limited Edition Dragontail is much lighter (1 pound, 12 ounces per pair), but it’s still a bit heavy for its class. Also, the rubber isn’t quite as sticky as the Tech GTX and the upper isn’t very breathable. Still, the Limited Edition is a classic-looking, durable approach shoe for all types of hiking and the occasional third- or fourth-class scramble.

Both shoes meet the overall criteria to be some of the best approach shoes around.

The Black Diamond Mission LT 2.0 ($160) is comfortable right out of the box. Traditional approach shoes tend to come with a narrow-fitted toebox, but the Mission LT bucks this trend with its roomy, yet customizable fit.

Based on our testing, the Mission LT 2.0 specializes in hiking. It has decent technical climbing ability, but it really shines during long hikes on dirt, gravel, and talus. We also felt confident scrambling third- and fourth-class terrain in this shoe. Though it wouldn’t be our first choice for technical rock and vertical routes, it will do the job if you’re in a pinch.

The Mission LT has a rockered profile, which allows for a comfortable and natural stride while walking. When it comes time to climb, the rocker shape makes it slightly challenging to confidently stand on small footholds. We appreciate that the lacing system continues down toward the toe, which allows the wearer to adjust the fit and increase precision.

We tested this shoe during a year’s worth of weekly approaches and it never delaminated or tore. For overall comfort and versatility, the Mission LT is a solid choice.

The Mescalito ($229) is Scarpa’s latest do-it-all approach shoe. From long off-trail slogs to technical sections of 5.4, the Mescalito does everything well and lives to tell the tale.

Made with a thick suede upper, the Mescalito is well-equipped to foot jam and grovel up chimneys without ripping to shreds. After several weeks and hiking and technical climbing, the Mescalitos upper showed minimal signs of wear — except at the opening where the suede meets the mesh inner liner. This is a common weak point of Scarpa’s approach shoes, and it remains an issue on the Mescalito. Otherwise, the shoe is sufficiently hardy.

In every meaningful way, the Mescalito is a bonafide alternative to the La Sportiva TX4. Both shoes are hefty and traditionally constructed. Ultimately, the edge goes to the TX4 due to the Mescalito’s lofty price tag and minor durability flaws.

Like the TX4, the Mescalito has a tongue-to-toe lacing system that enables precise fitting. We found that the large rubber toecap helped protect against stubbed toes and sharp talus.

The Mescalito shines brightest where the rubber meets the road. Underfoot, a Vibram Megagrip outsole provides some of the best traction available in the approach shoe realm. Even on wet surfaces, the shoe’s aggressive lugs and sticky climbing zone boost confidence when the terrain turns vertical. If you’re a climbing guide or frequent alpine adventurer, it’s a top-notch shoe.

The Mescalito is also available in boot form.