A Softer, More Sensitive SCARPA Instinct Climbing Shoe: We Review the VSR

The Instinct has long been one of SCARPA’s best-performing, most popular aggressive climbing shoes. Since introducing the original Instinct, the company has released multiple variations, including laced and slipper options. The Instinct VSR is a boulderer’s must-have secret weapon, and the brand released a low-volume version this spring. 

We tested the SCARPA Instinct VSR LV (low-volume version) for months inside gyms and outdoors on sandstone crags in the Southeast (including Stonefort and Rocktown) and on Iowa limestone. I made approximately 80 redpoint attempts in the shoe outside and over 500 attempts inside on the walls or Tension Board.

In short: The SCARPA Instinct VSR is a versatile option that improves upon the original model’s sensitivity, stickiness, and suppleness. These do come at the cost of some edging ability, and the new LV version greatly enhances fit for climbers with narrower heels.

SCARPA Instinct VSR

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8.5

How we rate products ⓘ

Specifications

• Upper material: Microfiber
• Midsole: Flexan 1.0
• Outsole: Vibram XS Grip 2 (3.5 mm)
• Closure: Single Velcro strap
• Available sizes: 35-45

Pros

• Durable construction
• Best-fitting Instinct heel available
• Low-volume version available

Cons

• Stretch out significantly
• Subpar edging ability

Mary Andino

SCARPA Instinct VSR Review

The Spec Sheet

Like all Instincts, this model has a moderately downturned and moderately asymmetric design. It includes the Bi Tension System, which uses a reverse slingshot rand to connect the toe area to the heel. SCARPA claims that this design “actively pulls power from the toes to provide higher performance without cramming your toes forward.

The upper is synthetic leather, and SCARPA uses a 1.00mm Flexan for the midsole.

The outsole has 3.5mm of Vibram XS Grip2 rubber. This is exclusive to SCARPA and La Sportiva and offers Vibram’s maximum friction and grip.

What makes the SCARPA VSR distinct from other shoes in the Instinct family is its increased softness. The low-volume version I tested design has a narrower heel and reduced-volume toe box and instep. These climbing shoes are available in sizes 35-45. My size 41 weighs 16.2 ounces per pair, and the MSRP is $209.

SCARPA Instinct VSR LV Fit

Sizing for the new SCARPA Instinct VSR LV is tricky. Right out of the box, they felt far too small, but within a few sessions, they had stretched out so significantly that they felt slightly baggy. Downsizing significantly is key to this shoe’s long-term functionality.

By far, the best improvement on the VSR LV is the fit on the heel. On other Instinct models, there was always space between my foot and the heel, making for imprecise heel hooks.

The narrower design of this LV version made it the best-fitting Instinct heel I’ve experienced. For a downturned, aggressive shoe, I found the SCARPA Instinct VSR LV quite comfortable, wearing it for 5-hour-long training sessions without issue.   

Performance

I wore the Instinct VSR LV on all manner of climbs, from burly roofs on Iowa limestone to precise, technical vertical routes on Tennessee sandstone.

Compared to the original Instincts, the softer nature of the VSR made it excellent for standing on volumes and smearing on outdoor rock. The SCARPA Instinct VSR was the perfect middle ground between a hard-edging shoe like a Solution and an ultra-soft shoe like the Veloce.

The Instinct VSR edged better than a Veloce, Drago, or Theory but still excelled on volumes while smearing well. I thought that they smeared better than the Instinct VS and VSR. I found it to be a great all-around shoe, performing well on the Tension Board, volumes, and overhangs. The softer design, of course, sacrifices some edging precision that climbers might need on slabby routes.

Durability and Value

Despite the hundreds of burns we put in wearing these shoes, the VSR LVs showed nothing more than expected ordinary wear and tear.

The stitching on the rubber toe patch, which is often the first thing to go on bouldering shoes, held up exceptionally well. On other Instinct models, the rubber toe patch can start to peel away from the shoe after extended use, but this was not the case with the VSR LV.

While the price of $209 is more expensive than other brands (Mad Rock’s shoes range from $119 to $159, and Butora’s shoes cost $149-189), the durability made these shoes a good value. The Instinct VSR’s price tag also includes one of the stickiest rubber soles on the market, the Vibram XS Grip2.

Conclusions on the SCARPA Instinct VSR

If you’re a rock climber who likes the SCARPA Instinct line, then the Instinct VSR can fill the role of being a softer, more supple, and more sensitive shoe in your quiver.

And if the Scarpa Instinct line hasn’t fit correctly due to a baggy heel, the VSR LV is worth trying. The redesigned heel improves upon the original Instinct’s weak link, and the shoe offers an ideal amount of stickiness and moderate stiffness in a highly durable package.

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