The Black Diamond Momentum has been around for a long time. It was actually my first harness when I was a baby climber over a decade ago, with little money in the bank but a lot of fire behind my eyes. I remember when it was around $50, and while its price has gone up over the years, it’s still extremely affordable, and I’m quick to recommend it to anyone just getting into climbing who doesn’t need all the bells and whistles of a more advanced harness.
Even as I became a more intermediate climber, the Momentum still performed just like I needed it to. With its spacious pressure-molded gear loops, adjustable leg loops, and ample padding, it has everything you need to just get out there and go climbing.
In short: The Black Diamond Momentum harness is a great choice for beginners or budget-conscious climbers. Though it doesn’t have the fancy weight-distributing technology found in other BD harnesses, nor features like loops for ice tools or hauling, it’s got everything else you need for gym days, crag days, and multipitches, making it a great all-arounder for the everyday climber.
Compare Black Diamond Momentum Harness with other picks in our guide to the Best Climbing Harnesses.
Specifications
Pros & Cons
Pros
- Affordable
- Great for beginners
- Quick adjusting leg loops
Cons
- Heavier padding doesn’t breathe well
- Not as packable as other models
- Small, non-rated haul loop
Black Diamond Momentum Harness Review
Fit
The first thing I noticed was how the newer version of the Momentum fit differently than my Zone harness, which is my current go-to. Both are a size small, and the Momentum seems to fit smaller than the Zone, which I didn’t expect.
The leg loops adjust with a small plastic tab, but they still felt tight around my thigh. Whereas the Zone harness has non-adjustable leg loops and fits perfectly, it may be worth noting that if you are between sizes, you might benefit from sizing up.
Performance
This harness performs as a harness should, which is great news. It’s easy to pull on, adjust the waistbelt, and be ready to go. The stiff, pressure-molded gear loops easily accommodate a rack of draws or a double rack of gear.
I don’t love the feeling of the cheap foam that can rub against your skin, but that doesn’t stop it from catching me if I fall. I climbed several days out on the granite walls in Squamish, Canada, in the Momentum, and it caught whips, belayed my partners, and was great for sport climbing days at the Petrified Wall to multipitch days on the Grand Wall.
Features
More specialized harnesses come with things like clips for ice tools, a fully functional haul loop or fifth gear loop, and contoured waist and leg loops that eliminate the need for extra padding. While the Momentum does not have these things, it still gets the basics right–spacious gear loops, an easily adjustable waist buckle, and thick padding for reasonable comfort.
Comfort
The padding on the waist belt and leg loops on the Momentum harness make it reasonably comfortable and breathable. While harnesses like the Zone feature zero padding but instead rely on specialized manufacturing to distribute weight, the Momentum simply provides foam.
As I mentioned before, I don’t love the way it feels rubbing against my bare skin, or the sound it makes rubbing together as I walk around the base of a crag, I can see the benefit of having some padding for long days running laps at the gym, or leaning back at an anchor on your first multipitch.
Black Diamond Momentum Harness: The Bottom Line
While it’s easy to compare this harness to many of the premium ones I’ve worn and tested, at the end of the day, this harness is a great all-arounder for any climber looking for something functional without breaking the bank. The new iteration is even lighter than the older ones I used to wear back in the day; it comes in women’s and men’s versions with different colorways and fits. With big gear loops and comfortable, breathable padding, the Momentum is a harness that’s a no-brainer for the casual climber of any discipline.
