Most folks might have thought ‘Empath’ was a sport route, but one climber had other ideas.
So much for “Magic Line.” It’s not every day someone climbs 5.15 on gear — in fact, it had never happened before June 12, but now Connor Herson may have pulled it off.
Depending on who you talk to, Carlo Traversi’s “Empath” clocks in at either 5.14+ or 5.15a. After Traversi, the Tahoe rig saw a flurry of repeats from U.S. crushers like Jimmy Webb, Daniel Woods, and Nathaniel Coleman.
Ethan Pringle finally downgraded it to 5.14+ after utilizing chicanery, including jammies (read: sticky rubber gloves that help you hand jam better).
But here’s the kicker: all of them clipped the bolts. Herson skipped them, opting instead to plug gear for protection.
Well, he did that the second time he sent the route.
“A climb so nice, I climbed it twice — the second time on gear!” the teenager commented on Instagram.
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Herson’s post is brief; he thanks his belayers for their psych and Traversi for his first ascent vision. He mentions he’s grateful the Caldor fire didn’t fry “Empath” and turn it into an unclimbable crust of potato chips.