Trango introduced the Kestrel ice tools in 2020, and they oozed the high-performance potential of carbon fiber. But I needed to know if they’d perform in high-stakes ice climbing.
Big backcountry ice climbs require a different mentality about ice tool weight than single-pitch ice cragging at parks like the Ouray Ice Park or climbing in canyons with short approaches. Weight matters, as every extra ounce carried across rugged, snow-covered terrain and up big ice can detract from the performance and overall enjoyment of the outing.
Trango utilized carbon fiber and Kevlar in the Kestrel ice tool shaft, keeping the weight low and concentrating the mass in the head. The wonder materials also provided benefits beyond lightness. All these factors made the Kestrel ideal for big backcountry ice with long, arduous approaches.
I brought three sets of ice tools into very remote locations in Alaska a few weeks ago, searching multipitch first ascents. The Kestrels were far and away my favorite of the trip. Let me tell you why.
In short: The Trango Kestrel ice tool proved ideal for waterfall ice routes up to WI5+. The further out and taller the routes were, the more advantageous these tools became.
The Trango Kestrels Are the Perfect Weight
Heavier tools, especially those with more significant head weight, make sticking swings easier. The greater momentum generated by greater mass results in less energy spent getting a bomber stick. And added weight can result in a much more pleasant and confidence-inspiring swing and less rebound if you glance off.
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But the negative is more total energy spent schlepping those tools across and over the mountainous terrain that usually surrounds big ice climbs, which repeats ascending the frozen beasts.
I had one set of heavier tools than the Trango Kestrels and one that was lighter. And, man, did Trango get the total mass and head weight right; the Kestrels repeatedly proved themselves to sit at the very happy medium with a verified weight of 1 pound, 3 ounces per tool with the included 2.3-ounce head weights.
Trango Got the Grip Right
Another crucial factor is the grip and choke grip size. Again, Trango hit the happy medium with the Kestrels.
I had one set of tools with a larger grip and one with a smaller grip. The more significant grip felt too big with gloves appropriate for 10- to 20-degree weather, while the smaller grip was harder to use when a perfect swing wasn’t in the cards.
When grips are too large, I have to apply more grip force to feel secure. Grips too small require the same to prevent head twisting when impacting ice off-angle. Both erode confidence, which usually leads to overgripping and an early start to arm pump.
Trango used the same size on the choke-up grip as the main grip, which I preferred. Some ice tools have a smaller main grip and a larger choke-up grip, which I know others may prefer.
But I like the consistency between the two grips, especially when I hang off a single tool and switch up hands to shake out. I know what to expect no matter how many times I switch my hands out.
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Outstanding Geometry and Weight Distribution for Vertical Ice
Trango Kestrel: Full Carbon Shaft
What About the Pick?
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