Ice Archives

‘Crack Baby’: Alpinist Retraces Steps of Legendary Swiss Ice Climb

Ice climbing comes in many forms. This edit from Mammut explores the history and future of a legendary Swiss route that’s helped define the discipline.

Written by Andrew McLemore February 22, 2023

Lowa Alpine Ice GTX Climbing Boot Review: High Dexterity and Warmth, Low Bulk

The Lowa Alpine Ice GTX climbed ice exceptionally well due to its low bulk and kept my feet warm in extremely cold conditions.

Written by Seiji Ishii February 20, 2023

Salewa Piuma 3.0 Review: The Mountain Adventure Helmet You Want

The Salewa Piuma 3.0 helmet is a true quiver-killer for all forms of climbing and ski touring. Our tester is ditching his other helmets.

Written by Christian Black February 13, 2023

Patagonia DAS Light Pants Review: The Missing Link in Ultralight Puffy Pants

The newest contender in the belay pant showdown goes minimalist to maximize functionality across the outdoor rec spectrum: the Patagonia DAS Light pant.

Written by Bergen Tjossem January 24, 2023

Grivel Dark Machine Review: Ultralight Ice Tools for the Steeps

The Grivel Dark Machine crushes on difficult ice with hero status. But on less difficult terrain, it can sometimes be awkward.

Written by Seiji Ishii January 23, 2023

Arc’teryx Alpha SV Review: Last Shell Standing After Alaskan First Ascents

The Arc’teryx Alpha SV shell has been a go-to for alpinists since 1998. GORE-TEX PRO Most Rugged Technology improves the bomber shell.

Written by Seiji Ishii January 03, 2023

Learn This Italian Valley’s Legendary Ice Climbing Reputation

There’s enough ice climbing history in the Western Alps’ Susa Valley to draw generations of ax-wielding athletes.

Written by Sam Anderson December 23, 2022

Watch ‘No Siesta’ on Grandes Jorasses Go Down

Many classic routes ascend the north face of this iconic Alps mountain. But perhaps none present as much danger and difficulty as No Siesta.

Written by Andrew McLemore December 15, 2022

Watch Ouray Lifer Andres Marin Climb His Frozen Home Cliffs

Originally from Colombia — a country not exactly famous for ice climbing — Andres Marin now lives in the American hub of the sport he…

Written by Andrew McLemore December 13, 2022

Will Gadd Releases 9 Free Videos: ‘How to Ice Climb With Will Gadd’

If you’ve been looking for a masterclass in climbing on ice, Will Gadd just released a comprehensive course on YouTube.

Written by Andrew McLemore November 29, 2022

Marmot West Rib Parka Review: 35 Days in Alaska

I put the Marmot West Rib Parka through a 35-day test in Alaska’s high ranges.

Written by Christian Black November 23, 2022

‘Land of the Cold Sun’: Two Athletes Forge Mountaineering Routes in Morocco

Watch two Rab athletes scale a mountain in Morocco, where there is almost no mountaineering community, and no rescue services for those who venture into…

Written by Will Brendza November 09, 2022

Jeff Mercier Ice Climbs a ‘Cave of Dreams’ in Chamonix

Hold your breath as ice climber Jeff Mercier descends — like Dante plunged into the inferno — into the surreal azure icescape of a Chamonix…

Written by Andrew Marshall October 14, 2022

SCARPA Phantom 6000 Review: From Techy Mt. Huntington Terrain to the Denali Summit

This year, I had the opportunity to test SCARPA’s newest model of its famed 6,000m boot during the spring climbing season in the Alaska Range.

Written by Christian Black October 13, 2022

From Smash Bros. to Ice Climbing: AAC Twin Cities Offers BIPOC Scholarship

The American Alpine Club interviews two recipients of the Michigan Ice Fest BIPOC Scholarship in its latest effort at inclusion.

Written by Andrew McLemore October 13, 2022

Winter Climb Link-Up as a Form of Grief Recovery

Sarah Hueniken went out with a group of friends for what ‘felt like a perfect day of ice climbing.’ What happened next tested her bond…

Written by Sam Anderson October 12, 2022

Incredible ‘Pou’ Climbing Brothers Keep Putting Up First Ascents: Timeline

Iker and Eneko Pou have demolished every climb they’ve tried in the Peruvian Cordillera for the last 2 months. Can’t keep up? Here’s a timeline.

Written by Sam Anderson August 01, 2022

Watch the Pou Bros Send Untouched Peruvian Snow & Ice

Get a taste of what makes brothers Eneko and Iker Pou tick in this short clip as they hunt first ascents in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca.

Written by Sam Anderson June 28, 2022

How to Fit a Climbing Harness (Or: How to Avoid Harness Burn)

Fitting your climbing harness right can help you have the best day out possible and prevent all kinds of discomfort.

Written by Sam Anderson June 09, 2022

Apply Now: American Alpine Club Opens Grant for Underrepresented Filmmakers

This winter, the American Alpine Club will put its weight behind underserved filmmakers in climbing with the Pull Focus Grant.

Written by Sam Anderson May 19, 2022

Ouray Ice Park Needs Our Help: ‘Our Water Our Future’ Campaign

Ouray Ice Park in Ouray, Colo., is a must-do on any ice climber’s list. But just like your local crag, increasing pressures burden limited resources.…

Written by Seiji Ishii May 03, 2022

Ultimate Ice Tool? Trango Kestrel Review

Trango introduced the Kestrel ice tools last year, and they oozed the slickness made possible by carbon fiber. But did they perform when it counted?

Written by Seiji Ishii March 21, 2022

Russia Yanked From International Climbing Comps in Ice, Speed, and Bouldering Circuits

The IFSC and UIAA have canceled Russian stops along their ice climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing World Cup tours.

Written by Sam Anderson February 28, 2022

Darkest Horse Wins World Youth Ice Climbing Championship

Landers Gaydosh won the 2022 UIAA World Youth Ice Climbing Championships as the youngest climber in the field, with next to no experience.

Written by Sam Anderson February 03, 2022

One of Scotland’s Hardest Mixed Climbing Routes Gets Gritty First Repeat

Mixed climbing in Scotland doesn’t get much harder than Martin Moran’s ‘The Wailing Wall’ (IX 9). A vivid report followed the route’s first repeat.

Written by Sam Anderson January 19, 2022

Watch the Legendary Dave MacLeod Free Solo a Frozen Ben Nevis

Orion Face is the biggest wall on Ben Nevis. And its 1,400-foot direct route is, according Dave MacLeod, the closest you can get to alpine…

Written by Jilli Cluff December 27, 2021

Free Solo Ice Climbing: Watch Markus Pucher’s Stone-Cold Nerves in ‘Ice Chasers’

Markus Pucher started ice climbing when he was 16. Now, his approach reflects the barest of bare necessities.

Written by Sam Anderson December 17, 2021

Black Diamond Will Match Your Donations to Help Save Threatened Climbing Areas

As the climbing population continues to explode, under-resourced crags keep getting busier. The result? Habitat strain and possible loss of access. The Access Fund and…

Written by Sam Anderson December 07, 2021

‘Road to Ouray’ Giveaway Offers Trip to 2022 Ouray Ice Fest, Climbing Gear

Love ice climbing or want to try it? Like free gear too? Find out how to win a trip to Ouray Ice Park this month.

Written by Mary Murphy December 06, 2021

Ouray Ice Park Overcomes Rockfall, Community Discord to Open for the Season

This summer, extensive repairs and cleanup at the Ouray Ice Park generated friction between multiple stakeholders. Although collaboration between public and private interests often proved…

Written by Sam Anderson November 15, 2021

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