Support us! GearJunkie may earn a small commission from affiliate links in this article. Learn More

Not all knives are sharpened equally, but all neglected edges get dull. So, our knife experts — the sorts who regrind every factory edge to perfection— rounded up the best knife sharpeners on the market.

We used the systems here in kitchens, in the field, and at the workshop to see not only what they sharpen best but where they’re best suited. The result: a list of the best sharpening systems, from the approachable-yet-capable Work Sharp Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener, to the simple (and budget) Sharp Pebble Whetstone. There’s even a kitchen-counter choice for you foodies in the Chef’s Choice 15XV.

Led by Ian Graber-Stiehl, a professional blade sharpener, each system sharpened a wide range of knives in testing: budget folders, chisels, professional cutlery, high-end EDC steels, axes, machetes, shears, horse clippers, saws — you name it. Check out the top picks below.

Editor’s Note: GearJunkie updated this guide to the best knife sharpeners on March 31, 2026, to add the kitchen-ready Chef’s Choice 15XV Electric Sharpener, as well as elevate the Work Sharp Precision Adjust to our Best Overall pick.

The Best Knife Sharpeners of 2026


Rating Details

Sharpening Speed 9/10
Angle Precision 7/10
Versatility 8/10
Ease of Use 9/10

Specifications

Sharpener Type
Guided angle
Angle Range
15-30 degrees
Grits
320 & 600 diamond grit, ceramic hone
Size
11.5 x 4.5 x 7” case
Best For
EDC blades, cutlery under 9”
Skill Level
2/5

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Budget-friendly
  • Takes up little space
  • Easy to operate
  • Rubberized clamp prevents scratching
  • Swiveling clamp
  • Good grit progression

Cons

  • Limited low-angle options
  • Angles not always accurate
  • Struggles with large, thick blades
  • Clamp flexes without support
  • Slow at reprofiling blades
Ian Graber-Stiehl

Read Review: Work Sharp Precision Knife Sharpener Review: Razor-Like Edges on a Budget

The Quick & Dirty: An approachable knife sharpener that will serve most hobbyists well, and leaves the door open to upgrades.

During a few months of testing on a range of outdoor and kitchen knives, Editorial Director Sean McCoy found the Work Sharp Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener ($70) to be a remarkably consistent tool, providing both convenience and professional results. Using a guided triple-abrasive rod and a solid blade clamp, McCoy was able to move knives from utility dull to shaving sharp with minimal fuss.

The system is adjustable between 15 and 30 degrees, controlled by a threaded tower that raises and lowers the sharpening rod. Unlike competing systems that rely on pre-set notches, the Precision Adjust allows you to dial in an exact angle.

During his evaluation, McCoy found sharpening easy, reliable, and repeatable: “The three hones work well to take a knife from very dull to very sharp. But for most knives, the finest two are sufficient. I find myself using the ceramic hone most of the time, as I try to not let my knives get very dull.”

The tool-less V-Block Clamp secures a knife with a simple hand-tightened knob. A push-button release allows the entire assembly to rotate 180 degrees to sharpen the opposite side without unclamping. While this is a major time-saver, McCoy wasn’t a huge fan of the force required, so keep your digits accounted for and go slow.

The system relies on high-impact plastics rather than aluminum or stainless steel, as found in professional-tier systems like the Wicked Edge. The trade-off, however, is in dollars saved. For the hobbyist looking to move beyond simple field sharpeners and get something for home use, the Precision Adjust makes good sense.

Rating Details

Sharpening Speed 6/10
Angle Precision 7/10
Versatility 8/10
Ease of Use 6/10

Specifications

Sharpener Type
Soaking whetstone
Angle Range
Unlimited
Grits
1000, 6000
Size
2.2 x 7" stones
Best For
Regular maintenance
Skill Level
4 out of 5

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Quality, dual-grit stone
  • Silicone insert keeps the stone in place
  • The price is nice
  • Bamboo case stays in place on granite, marble, and rough surfaces

Cons

  • Bamboo case will move on butcher block
  • Takes practice to truly master — not very approachable for beginners
Ian Graber-Stiehl

The Quick & Dirty: A classic dual-grit soaking stone for a traditional, polished finish. It’s an affordable, meditative solution for purists, though it demands significant practice and patience to master.

Whetstones aren’t sexy sharpening solutions, but they are danged reliable. Knifemaker Nick LeFort cut his teeth on stones like the Sharp Pebble 1000/6000 Whetstone ($40), and while he’s got access to sharpeners with far more widgets and gizmos, it’s a simple whetstone like this that he uses when he wants to zone out with his knives.

Simple as simple can be, the 1000/6000 whetstone is a dual-grit aluminum oxide unit that sits on a bamboo and silicone base to keep it from working its way around your workbench. Aluminum-based stones like this are best soaked in water, and after a 10-minute dip, they’re ready to go.

LeFort says that most folks looking to spruce up their kitchen cutlery will find more utility on the white 6000-grit side, as it’ll hone edges that aren’t dull and return them to that factory pop. The blue 100-grit side, on the other hand, is where the “EDC and outdoor crowd looking to bring their knives back to their original luster will most likely start.” 

Sharpening on the Sharp Pebble isn’t difficult, but it does take some practice. Working up a good slurry of material aids in the sharpening process, but you’ll need to clear it once it begins to build up. Thankfully, the Sharp Pebble also comes with a 20-degree guide for sharpening, though this won’t cover all angles some knife owners are looking for.

Aluminum-oxide stones like the Sharp Pebble are certainly cheaper than ceramic whetstones like the Suehiro CERAX 1010, and they also won’t have as long a lifespan. But for someone who doesn’t want to jump up to even a budget angle-guided unit like the Work Sharp Precision Adjust Elite, the $40 it takes to get into the Sharp Pebble 1000/6000 Whetstone may be more palatable — you’ll just need to practice.

Rating Details

Sharpening Speed 8/10
Angle Precision 8/10
Versatility 7/10
Ease of Use 9/10

Specifications

Sharpener Type
Electric
Angle Range
15 degrees
Grits
Diamond (unknown grit)
Size
9.5" x 4.5" x 4"
Best For
Kitchen counter top use for culinary knives
Skill Level
1

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Simple three step process with quick results
  • Will sharpen serrated blades
  • Doesn't take up much space on a countertop

Cons

  • Will only sharpen to a 15 degree bevel
  • Sharpening stones are not replaceable
  • Cannot sharpen ceramic knives
Ian Graber-Stiehl

The Quick & Dirty: An electric workhorse for kitchen cutlery. It offers a repeatable way to sharpen 15-degree edges without the learning curve of manual systems, though it cannot sharpen much beyond kitchen knives.

The Chef’s Choice 15XV ($166) is the knife sharpener that any household could benefit from. This electric, kitchen-countertop model is a world away from most hobbyist versions and aims for pure ease of use and getting your cutlery back in shape.

Unlike the belt-driven Wicked Edge MK.2 or the Sharp Pebble whetstone, which require significant setup and some skill to operate, the 15XV uses motorized diamond abrasives and flexible spring guides to automate the sharpening process.

The 15XV utilizes three distinct stages: coarse grinding, fine honing, and a final stropping disk. During testing following a household move, the 15XV processed over a dozen neglected blades ranging from paring knives to carving cutlery. The spring-loaded guides maintain a consistent 15-degree angle, reducing the chatter and unevenness often found in budget pull-through sharpeners.

A notable feature is the Stage 3 flexible stropping disk. While most sharpeners in this guide struggle with serrated edges, the 15XV’s third stage successfully polished serrated bread knives without rounding off the teeth. Rolling sharpeners like the Work Sharp version or HORL should also be considered for kitchen-counter duty, but neither can sharpen your serrated knives.

The 15XV does have clear limits: Because it thins edges to only 15 degrees, we don’t recommend it for heavy-duty hobbyist blades or reprofiling a knife for a different use. You also can’t replace the abrasive discs once they wear out, meaning the sharpener has a finite lifespan. That said, we think this sharpener will clean up many knives in its lifetime before that happens.

Rating Details

Sharpening Speed 7/10
Angle Precision 7/10
Versatility 7/10
Ease of Use 8/10

Specifications

Sharpener Type
Rolling
Angle Range
15, 17, 20 and 25 degrees
Grits
320, 600, and a ceramic hone
Size
2 x 6”
Best For
Sharpening kitchen knives
Skill Level
1 out of 5

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • The overall quality of the build
  • Ease of use
  • The variety of knives it can sharpen
  • Variable angles in a rolling sharpener

Cons

  • Price
  • Could use a more aggressive grit disc to remove more material faster
Ian Graber-Stiehl

The Quick & Dirty: A magnetic-base roller that maintains a consistent angle across the entire blade length. It’s the most approachable tool for beginners, though it struggles with small or highly curved pocket knives.

The Work Sharp Rolling Knife Sharpener ($120) surprised our resident knife designer, who went into testing thinking that rolling sharpeners were a gimmick. Not true. This sharpener provides a quick, approachable way to get your knives back in fighting shape and deserves a spot on your kitchen counter.

The setup is simple: attach an abrasive disc to the rolling sharpener, and affix your blade to the weighted block. Then, roll the sharpener along the blade, allowing the abrasive to do the work. Moving through the grits is simple, and tester Nick LeFort was surprised by just how quickly he was able to get a solid edge back on his blades.

This sharpener differentiates itself from other rolling options on the market by offering both grit options and four angles: 15, 17, 20, and 25. This covers the spread of Santuko knives all the way to chunky tactical blades, and makes this sharpener much more than a one-trick pony. The weighted block sports these four angles on each side, and strong magnets keep your blade firmly in place while sharpening.

The abrasive discs all held up well in our testing, except for the ceramic honing disc, which showed some wear. Thankfully, you can source replacements from Work Sharp. The $150 price is a bit steep, but the adaptability of this setup makes it worth it. Other rolling sharpeners like the Tumbler Knife Sharpener don’t offer nearly as many grit or angle options, so the extra spend is warranted.

Rating Details

Sharpening Speed 8/10
Angle Precision 6/10
Versatility 7/10
Ease of Use 8/10

Specifications

Sharpener Type
Handheld diamond field sharpener
Angle Range
N/A
Grits
325/750 grit Coarse/Fine
Size
4 x 2 x 1”
Best For
In the field touch-ups
Skill Level
1 out of 5

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Lightweight
  • Portable
  • Versatile
  • Integrated hook sharpener

Cons

  • No reference angles
  • Finishing grit relatively coarse
Ian Graber-Stiehl

The Quick & Dirty: A $20, pocket-sized lifesaver for restoring working edges at camp or in the woods. It’s a perfect budget back-up, but lacks the precision of home systems.

Smith’s Diamond Combo Sharpener ($20) has had a place in our pockets for over 10 years for good reason: It’s simple, and it works. Yes, there are field sharpeners with more bells and whistles. Work Sharp’s Guided Field Sharpener, for example, comes with two diamond plates, multiple ceramic rods, an angle guide, a strop, and a broadhead wrench. It also comes with a higher price tag and more weight. 

There are smaller, lighter field sharpeners, like the glut of pocket pull-through sharpeners on the market. But rarely do they put on as good an edge. For a field sharpener, a stowable and streamlined capability is the name of the game. Fittingly, the Smith’s Diamond Combo handle can sheath the diamond plates. This protects the abrasives and your pack alike while providing a slim, packable, weather-resistant profile.

We also found the handle ergonomic, putting distance between your hands and edges while making field sharpening easy. Likewise, the grits of the diamond plates are more than enough to put a working edge on just about any blade. 

The Diamond Combo is exactly what a field sharpener should be: cheap, easy to pack, hard to break, and effective on everything from hunting knives and broadheads to fishing hooks and multitools. We might reach for the Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker a bit more often if we’ve got more downtime in camp, but for pure on-the-go versatility, this sharpener is where it’s at.

Rating Details

Sharpening Speed 9/10
Angle Precision 7/10
Versatility 9/10
Ease of Use 7/10

Specifications

Sharpener Type
Electric belt sharpening system
Angle Range
20 and 25 degrees
Grits
80, 220, 6000
Size
9 x 7 x 6”
Best For
Pocket Knives, Traditional Outdoor Knives, Kitchen Knives, Landscaping & Trail Tools
Skill Level
3 out of 5

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Quick grinding
  • Incredibly versatile
  • Easy to operate
  • Freehand and guided sharpening modes
  • Easily convexes edges

Cons

  • Loud
  • Messy/dusty
  • Requires replacement belts
  • Can overheat edges
Ian Graber-Stiehl

Read Review: If You Can Dull It, This Will Sharpen It: Work Sharp Knife & Tool Sharpener MK.2 Review

The Quick & Dirty: A fast, motor-driven belt system that handles everything from paring knives to garden axes. It offers unmatched speed and versatility, though high speeds require care to avoid overheating the blade.

What makes the Work Sharp Knife & Tool Sharpener MK.2 ($90) elite is the fact that it is an easy-to-use, complete knife and tool sharpening system. Composed of a knife and tool sharpener, as well as an optional grinding attachment, you won’t find anything else on this list that can do everything this sharpener can do.

Motorized belt sharpening can be a little intimidating. After all, if you’re not paying attention to what you’re doing, you can ruin the heat treat on your blade. Thankfully, the MK.2 has a dual-speed motor and low-tension belts to help limit that from happening. Also, there is no need to worry about bogging the motor down; it’s designed to take your use and abuse. But keep in mind — you should always let the tool do the work.

The sharpener sports an angle guide for 20 or 25-degree sharpening and is leather-lined to protect your blades. This should cover most of your pocket and kitchen knives, though it is a bit limited. For those who need all the angles, consider an adjustable system like the Wicked Edge WE40 or the Work Sharp Precision Adjust.

The MK.2 comes with and uses 3/4″ x 12” belts. In the box, you’ll get one each of Work Sharp’s P80, P220, and 6000 grit belts, which are enough to get even damaged blades back into working order. Work Sharp also offers a wide range of accessory belts for the MK.2, so you can dial it in for your use.

Over the years, it’s become clear that Work Sharp only produces quality products that are easy to use and durable enough to withstand your most stubborn tasks. The MK.2 is a supreme tool for keeping blades sharp, the best out there today.

Rating Details

Sharpening Speed 7/10
Angle Precision 9/10
Versatility 8/10
Ease of Use 7/10

Specifications

Sharpener Type
Manual, double-sided, clamped, angle-guided
Angle Range
12-28 degrees per side; 12-33 with Micro-Adjust
Grits
100/200, 400/600, 800/1000
Size
7 x 11 x 11.5”
Best For
Professional-level knife sharpening
Skill Level
4 out of 5

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Ease of use
  • Consistency
  • Range of accessories
  • Integrated storage options
  • Build quality

Cons

  • Stock vice only accommodates blades under 5 mm thick
  • Expensive
  • Accessories required for acute and mirror-polished edges
Ian Graber-Stiehl

The Quick & Dirty:

There is a good reason why the Wicked Edge Gen 4 Pro ($1,099) is at the top of the wishlist of every EDC fanatic and pro sharpener we know. It makes getting incredibly sharp, consistent edges a breeze at professional pace — with accessories. 

The backbone of the Gen 4 is a double-sided diamond-based abrasive system that allows for easy adjustment of both sides. Simply clamp a blade in, match the angle (made especially easy with the micro-adjustor), or set a new one, and get to grinding with both hands  — for a price. 

The Gen 4’s biggest downside is that its high price is the starting point, not the end. Even without the micro-adjust and storage shelf (which aren’t strictly necessary), the vice’s limited accommodations, the inherent variability of a clamp system, and the quality you’d have to turn out to justify the price make additional accessories necessary. 

Acute, especially asymmetrically ground Japanese chefs’ knives will require a Low-Angle Adapter. Blades over 3/16″ thick will require alternative jaws, which, even then, tap out shy of extremely meaty blades like traditional khukuri. Reprofiling and mirror-polishing blades for discerning customers will require a digital angle finder and a suite of extra stones.

The tradeoff here is simple: For the vast and overwhelming array of blades that people pay to have sharpened, chef’s knives, EDC blades, hunters, filet knives — even that one Christmas gift ceramic santoku that’s been rattling around dull in a drawer for a decade — there isn’t a more consistent, user-friendly system for getting amazing edges. Not to mention … the Gen 4 Pro is just sexy.

If the price of the Gen 4 Pro galls you, you can get a similar style and cheaper sharpener in the KME Precision Deluxe Kit (or even the Work Sharp Precision Adjust Elite), you just give up the better, centrally clamped knife position. The clamp on the Wicked Edge simply works perfectly, which helps to explain the price.

Other Knife Sharpeners That’ll Get the Job Done

Rating Details

Sharpening Speed 6/10
Angle Acuracy 6/10
Versatility 7/10
Ease of Use 7/10

Specifications

Sharpener Type
Angled rod sharpening
Angle Range
15 or 20 degrees per side
Grits
Medium/Fine combo
Size
1.5 x 8 x 3” packed
Best For
Quick touchups and micro-beveling
Skill Level
2 out of 5

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Extensive angle range
  • Accurate angle settings
  • Quality polishing stones
  • Good for large blades
  • Numerous accessories

Cons

  • Not the most stable base
  • Easy to scratch blades
  • Long guide arms makes storage difficult
  • Less consistent with certain blade grinds
Ian Graber-Stiehl

The Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker ($127) is the touch-up king. It is simplicity at its finest, with a pair of medium and fine stones that can be set at 15 or 20 degrees per side, a horizontal mounting option for shallower angles, and the ability to stow the entire system into itself. 

Aside from quick touch-ups, there is another area where the Sharpmaker shines most: microbeveling. This practice of taking a few swipes at a slightly steeper angle than the edge was sharpened is a great way to knock the burr off an edge and bring it back to hair-popping sharp. 

A precision system, this is not. If you’re looking to put a perfect mirror polish on an edge or restore a chipped blade, the Sharpmaker isn’t the way to go. Reprofiling an edge with the Sharpmaker is more than an exercise in patience. Like the pocketable Smith’s Diamond Combination Sharpener, the Sharpmaker is better suited to quick-and-dirty sharpening between big jobs.

We tend to reach for our Smith’s field sharpener a bit more (due to the lower fiddle factor compared to the 7-piece Sharpmaker), but there’s much more versatility in this kit — something that makes more sense as a basecamp sharpener. With the optional diamond stones, we found it quick and easy to touch up even relatively dull, high-carbide steels like S90V and CPM-20CV without having to break out the big toys and whetstones.

Rating Details

Sharpening Speed 7/10
Angle Precision 7/10
Versatility 7/10
Ease of Use 8/10

Specifications

Sharpener Type
Manual, double-sided, clamped, angle-guided
Angle range
13-31 degrees per side
Grits
200, 600 diamond
Size
9.5" x 3.5" x 5"
Best for
Beginner knife sharpeners and enthusiasts
Skill level
2 out of 5

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Easy-to-understand entry point to knife sharpening
  • Affordable Wicked Edge quality
  • Includes practice knife for honing your skills
  • Compact and portable

Cons

  • Included stones may be a bit limited in grit for some
  • Will require your own workstation clamps (unless you purchase the separate aluminum base)
Ian Graber-Stiehl

The Quick & Dirty: A premium guided clamp system that eliminates guesswork for a perfectly consistent edge. It’s the safest choice for expensive EDC knives, though setup is slower than electric alternatives.

At-home knife sharpening can be intimidating, but the Wicked Edge Carbon WE40 ($199) makes it an easy transition. This entry-level option from the veteran brand piles on all the knowledge baked into sharpeners like the Generation 4 Pro, but at an accessible price for the rest of us.

For context, a total knife rookie managed to keep his blades sharp with it. The simple clamp system is intuitive, the angle adjustment is easy to dial in, and the stainless steel guide bars move effortlessly to guide amateurs through the motions. Beginners will have no problem.

The base system ships with only one set of sharpening stones — a 200/600 grit diamond option — but this is a good thing. It removes the confusion around the huge number of grits and different compounds available. Got a dull knife? Start with the 200 grit side to get things in order, then switch to the 600 to finish the job. No fancy compounds or procedures here. 

Wicked Edge knows the type who will be drawn to the WE40 and includes a practice knife so you can dial in your skills before committing your nice cutlery. We spent a solid day with this setup before diving into the real deal, and it made all the difference in feeling confident in putting our $100+ knives through it.

Knife sharpening old hands might feel a little restricted by the limited grits that the WE40 ships with, but you can always snag a few extra options, as the stones are all cross-compatible with Wicked Edge’s higher-end sharpeners. For beginners who want to lean more into their bladecraft, the WE40 is a stellar option.

Rating Details

Sharpening Speed 6/10
Angle Precision 6/10
Versatility 7/10
Ease of Use 7/10

Specifications

Sharpener Type
Diamond bench stone
Angle Range
N/A
Grits
Fine/Extra Fine, Coarse/Extra Coarse
Size
2 x 6”
Best For
EDC blades, cutlery, woodworking tools
Skill Level
3 out of 5

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Fast-cutting abrasive
  • Compact
  • Versatile
  • Less care required than oil or whetstones
  • Good for higher-end, high-carbide steels

Cons

  • Can rust if stored wet
  • Grits somewhat coarse for rating
  • Leave a heavy scratch pattern on edge
Ian Graber-Stiehl

The Quick & Dirty: An indestructible, travel-ready diamond plate that cuts through the hardest “super steels” with ease. It’s a pro favorite for quick field maintenance, though it leaves an aggressive, toothy scratch pattern.

DMT’s Dia-Sharp Stones, especially the double-sided 6-inch versions (starting at $55), are the king when it comes to quick, quality, compact, cost-effective freehand sharpening. Two stones, the Extra Coarse/Coarse and the Fine/Extra Fine, especially combined with DMT’s Magna Base Holder, can sharpen anything while taking up all of the space of a 1.5L bottle. 

Like any diamond stone, they do remove material aggressively. Likewise, what DMT considers “Extra-fine” is still a bit coarse for a finishing stone. The company does offer an Extra-Extra-Fine finishing stone, but only single-sided, and not in smaller sizes. 

So, the Dia-Sharps may be overkill for light touch-ups. They also leave a pretty aggressive scratch pattern on edges, need to be dried completely before long-term storage to prevent rust, and are only as capable as your freehand technique is good. 

However, the Dia-Sharps punch well above their weight class, especially for EDC-ers and woodworkers. Modern medium- and high-end EDC blades are typically high in alloy components and harder than the abrasives traditionally used to sharpen blades. Many whetstones need to be soaked before use and leveled every so often. 

These Diamond stones never require leveling or soaking and can quickly remove material from even the hardest modern steels. Since not every company’s “grits” are the same size, DMT’s forthrightness about how many microns a given grit is extremely useful. The stones don’t, however, have a handle like the Smith’s Diamond Combo Sharpener, so you’ll need a flat surface to get your work done.

Simply put, if you need to quickly put a razor’s edge on just about any cutting tool (other than maybe a recurve blade) in just about any steel while carrying little, the DMT Dia-Sharp Stones are a premier pick. Hence, they have been the go-to workplace sharpener for us through years of tending bars where coworkers chipped blades every shift.

Knife Sharpeners Comparison Chart

Knife SharpenerPriceTypeAngle RangeSkill LevelWho Its For
Work Sharp Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener$70Manual, single-sided, clamped, angle-guided15 to 30 degrees2/5Enthusiasts seeking a guided system to maintain knives without a huge investment
Sharp Pebble 1000/6000 Whetstone$40Soaking whetstoneUnlimited3/5Budget-minded hobbyists who want to invest in skill and not extra tools
Chef’s Choice 15XV$166Electric pull-through15 degrees1/5Anyone who owns a kitchen knife
Work Sharp Rolling Knife Sharpener$120Rolling15, 17, 20, and 25 degrees2/5Simplicity-minded chefs who need quick and reliable edges
Smith’s Diamond Combination Sharpener
$20Handheld diamond field sharpenerUnlimited1/5Hunters and backpackers who need a pocket-sized solution to restore edges
Work Sharp Knife & Tool Sharpener MK.2$90Electric belt sharpening system20 and 25 degrees3/5Hobbyists with many knives and other tools to sharpen
Wicked Edge Generation 4 Pro
$1,099Manual, double-sided, clamped, angle-guided12-28 degrees per side; 12-33 with Micro-Adjust4/5Professional knife sharpeners
Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker
$127Angled rod sharpening15 or 20 degrees per side2/5Hunters, tradesfolk, and enthusiasts who need reliable field sharpening beyond a pocket stone
Wicked Edge Carbon – WE40$199Manual, double-sided, clamped, angle-guided13-31 degrees per side2/5Beginner knife collectors wanting professional prestige in a simplified package
DMT 6″ Double Sided Dia-Sharp Stone$55Diamond bench stoneUnlimited3/5Knife nerds who want the most high-powered sharpening stone in a pocket
Scroll right to view all of the columns
the author sharpening a benchmade kitchen knife on a countertop tormek electric sharpener
A sharp knife is a safe knife, and keeping your knives sharp can be as much an art as it is a science; (photo/Ian Graber-Stiehl)

How We Tested the Best Knife Sharpeners

Not every blade is a knife, nor is every sharpening job simple. On a long enough timeline, every blade gets chewed up, chipped, and spit out. We have used many of these systems for years, but newcomers and longstanding favorites were all put through a diverse wringer. 

The most consistent backbone of our head-to-head tests was Benchmade’s Station and Table Knives, whose edges we dragged (with a heavy heart) along bricks until they were chipped, dull, and damaged. The CPM-154 steel, edge geometry, and the latter’s partial serrations made them an excellent analog for how each sharpener would handle heavy restoration and reprofiling of a broad spectrum of steels. 

We also tested tool-oriented systems like the T-4 and Work Sharp MK.2 by reprofiling axes, machetes, and khukuris. Systems capable of sharpening saw teeth were put to task by touching up folding saws. Ultimately, every testee was thrown up against a broad array of different tools, edge geometries, and degrees of dullness. 

a trio of guided angle sharpeners on a benchtop being used to sharpen various pocket knives
A variety of knife shapes and steel types were tested on each sharpener to prove their worth; (photo/Ian Graber-Stiehl)

Our Testing Process

To get a good idea of how various sharpening systems performed in the real world, we tested each system against steels in three brackets. To approximate the maintenance of softer, lower-carbide steels often used in bushcraft blades, axes, budget EDC blades, and mid-range cutlery, we used each system to sharpen steels like 1050, 1095, 14C28N, and AUS10. 

The biggest range of testing was with the medium-high carbide content steels common to mid-to-high-end cutlery, fixed blades, and folders like S35VN, CPM-154, and M4. Lastly, to see how well each system held up to the hardest high-end EDC blades, we also used each sharpener with stubborn steels like S90V and S110V. A few diamond-based systems were also tested against ceramic knives.

Our knife sharpener rating system:

  • Sharpening Speed: 30% weighted. We timed how long it took to move a factory-dull edge to a consistent, paper-slicing burr for each of these sharpeners. A 10/10 score is reserved for only the fastest belt-driven tools, while a typical whetstone may score a 4 or 5.
  • Angle Precision: 30% weighted. Whenever possible, we used digital inclinometers to verify if “20 degrees” on the guide actually translated to 20 degrees on the steel, checking for mechanical flex or slop.
  • Versatility: 20% weighted. We rated each unit on its ability to handle different blade thicknesses, lengths, and specialized tasks like serrations. A high score is awarded to sharpeners who have a large catalog of accessories available and can be used with a wide range of different blades, axes, or kitchen implements. An average score of around 7 denotes some range in blade types, and a 5 means a sharpener is pretty much singularly focused on one type of knife.
  • Ease of Use: 20% weighted. We assessed the learning curve for a “knife rookie” to achieve a razor-edge without damaging the blade’s heat treatment or geometry.

Our Expert Testers

a wicked edge professional 4 pro knife sharpener with many knives surrounding it on a tabletop
We cycled through several different knife types to ensure a sharpener could do it all; (photo/Ian Graber-Stiehl)

Our lead tester, Ian Graber-Stiehl, is an edge obsessive. He’s a “knife guy” through and through, who definitely doesn’t have a problem and can quit collecting anytime he wants. As a former bartender, cook, and hobbyist bladesmith, he’s lectured many coworkers about metallurgy and nearly strangled more than a few for chipping his santoku knife by tossing it in the sink. 

Moreover, he’s professionally sharpened blades for commercial kitchens, antique axe and sword collectors, sushi chefs, home cooks, hairdressers, horse trainers, woodworkers, and more — and never met a factory edge he didn’t completely reprofile within weeks.

Our testing team is also graced with Nick LeFort, a knife industry old hand who has been writing about knives for 10 years and is part-owner of Ragged Mountain Knife Works. LeFort also extensively tests knives, hatchets, and multitools for GearJunkie, so you know he’s wearing knives out enough to need a good sharpener or three.

Buyer’s Guide: How to Choose a Knife Sharpener

Sharpening Science

  • the author using a guided angle style sharpener to touch up an EDC blade, surrounded by different sharpening stones
  • the work sharp precision adjust sharpener with a pocket knife clamped in its jaws
  • an angle gauge on a work sharp sharpener reads out 23.25 degrees while sharpening a small blade

There are many approaches to sharpening, but the principles are all the same. How coarse a grit you should start at depends. (Pro tip: Different companies and types of abrasives have different grit sizes, but if a company offers the size of the abrasive particles in its stones in microns, this is a universal unit.)

The more material you need to remove, the coarser you should start. For simple sharpening, coloring in the edge of a blade with a black marker makes it easy to ensure you’re matching the existing edge angle. 

As you grind one side of a blade, you will form a burr: a thin, wiry piece of steel at the edge that folds over to the other side. A burr, especially with coarse stones, is easy to feel with your fingers or even see with the naked eye.

Form a burr on one side, then sharpen the other side until you form a burr in the other direction. Then move up in grit and repeat, sharpening each side until you form a burr and replacing the scratch pattern of the previous stone with the current, finer stone. 

After stopping at your desired grit, all that’s left is to break off that burr to reveal a fresh edge. This can be done in several ways: with hones, strops, or with a stone. Simply run the blade backward (think: the opposite direction of how you’d cut) at a slightly steeper angle on alternating sides until you break the burr off. Deburring, realigning warped edges, and light touch-ups are where hones and strops truly excel.

Different Strokes for Different Steels

the author sharpening a splitting axe in a wood yard with a tormek electric sharpener
A splitting profile on an axe head will require around an 18-degree bevel and a 25-degree micro bevel; (photo/Ian Graber-Stiehl)

Most steels tend to be relatively soft and easy to resharpen on almost any kind of stone, oil, and water. With these sorts of steels, the biggest hurdles are often repairing damaged edges, especially for thick blades like axes, hatchets, bushcraft knives, and khukuris. 

Thick blade stock means sharpening requires removing more material. So, reprofiling an edge and repairing large chips can still be a slow affair. 

High-end EDC knives tend to trend toward steels that are chock-full of carbides, which are harder than the abrasives in traditional whetstones and oil stones. This allows them to hold an edge for ages. However, this can make sharpening (especially reprofiling) these steels an exercise in tedium.

As a general rule, if the name of the steel in a blade starts with “CPM” or “ZDP” — doing the bulk of your sharpening with either a diamond abrasive or powered grinder is a good way to make life easier. We recommend reading up on the specific steel your blades are made from, as it will pay off during sharpening.

Types of Sharpeners

a selection of different knife sharpeners on a desk, along with different blade styles that might be sharpened on them
The right tool for the job — consider exactly what you’ll be sharpening before choosing a knife sharpener; (photo/Ian Graber-Stiehl)

Ultimately, the best sharpener for you is determined by a mix of what you’re sharpening, how often, where you work, your skills, and budget. 

A home cook on a budget needs a different sharpener than a professional sharpening ultra-hard steels, for example.

Even so, what’s more important isn’t the method. It’s the edge at the end. After all, an edge that cuts reliably is less likely to cut you.

Bench Stones

a set of hands pass a large knife across a ceramic whetstone, guiding the angle as it passes
Bench stones such as the Suehiro CERAX 1010 put a mirror finish on most blades; (photo/Ian Graber-Stiehl)

There are many types of sharpening stones, but they traditionally come in two broad categories: oil and whetstones. The abrasives in these stones — usually novaculite, silicon carbide, or aluminum oxide — can overlap quite a bit. The distinction is in how the abrasive particles are bound together, how you use them, and how fast they cut.

The abrasives in oil (or Arkansas) stones are bound tightly into a hard stone. This means they wear slowly and don’t need much maintenance. They’re also fantastic for polishing. 

However, a stone’s wear exposes fresh abrasives. So, less wear makes for slower sharpening, especially with very hard steels. Oil stones also clog more easily with steel particles or “swarf.” Fortunately, when an oil stone gets really clogged and discolored, a few minutes of warm, soapy water and a scrubby pad will clean it right up.

the author using a leather strop to maintain a blade edge on a tabletop
Leather strops are excellent for edge maintenance in between sharpening; (photo/Ian Graber-Stiehl)

The abrasive particles in whetstones like the Suehiro CERAX 1010 or Sharp Pebble 1000/6000 are bound more loosely. This means the stones themselves wear more quickly and form an abrasive slurry. This makes for faster sharpening. However, most whetstones must be soaked in water before use and leveled more often than oil stones to stay flat, typically with either a diamond plate or a leveling stone. 

Plates embedded with diamond or cubic boron nitride (CBN) are less traditional but incredibly fast. Boasting, respectively, the world’s first or second hardest abrasives, plates like the DMT Dia-Sharp Diamond Stone sharpen quickly, require minimal maintenance, and stay perfectly flat. 

On the downside, diamond and CBN bench stones are often expensive, provide less feedback than traditional stones, and can be heavy-handed for lighter sharpening, removing more material than needed and leaving heavy scratches on the edge.

Manual Angle-Guided Sharpeners

three different manual angle-guided sharpeners on a desk top, with the author sharpening a blade in a wicked edge sharpener
Manual angle-guided sharpeners are the go-to for many hobbyists and professionals; (photo/Ian Graber-Stiehl)

These incorporate any of the above abrasives into a system that secures the blade, allows you to dial in the angle, and uses a guide arm that holds a stone to sharpen at a consistent angle. 

There are broadly two types of manual angle-guided systems. Clamp-based ones like the Wicked Edge, and Work Sharp Precision Adjust Elite secure a blade in a clamp that can rotate to hit both sides of a blade. This makes them simple and easy to use. 

However, the actual sharpening angle of these designs depends heavily on how far the edge protrudes from the clamp. Likewise, the point of contact, and thus the sharpening angle, will change on heavily curved parts of a blade. So, for precision obsessives, an angle-measuring cube of some type may be necessary.

Table systems, like the Edge Pro, require holding a blade on an integrated table with the edge hanging off. Because the blade’s position can be manipulated, even with long and heavily curved blades, it’s much easier to keep a consistent angle. 

On the downside, these systems are a bit more involved to operate. You also need to account for the angle at which blades with no flat sides will rest — still making an angle cube a good idea. Swarf can also easily get on the table, scratching a blade’s finish as it’s drawn along. 

Electric Sharpeners

the author wears a mask as he sharpens a khukuri on a work sharp mk.2 sharpener in a wood yard
Belt systems like the Work Sharp Elite Knife Sharpening Solution make quick work of sharpening large blades; (photo/Ian Graber-Stiehl)

There’s no shortage of electric sharpeners. However, the best of them generally fall into two categories: belt systems and grinding stones. 

Belt sharpeners are the quick-grinding kings, but speed comes with costs. They’re noisy. Consumable belts are a secondary cost. And even with belt sharpeners marketed for kitchen use, we at GearJunkie recommend using a face mask to keep from inhaling steel dust if you’re grinding at low grits or for more than a few minutes at a time indoors.

Systems like the Work Sharp MK.2 scale down the power and speed of a grinder. With more slack, the chances of the belt overheating a blade are lower, though that slack means that you’ll get a slightly more convex edge. Adjustable angle guides make sharpening more precise and easier. That said, the dust and noise remain. 

On the other end of the scale are powered grindstones. Although there are some systems like the Tormek T-1, which are meant to be used dry, the majority of grinding systems meant to be used for sharpening are water-cooled, like the Tormek T-4. 

These are the behemoths of the list and easily the most complex systems. Their grinding wheel — either a whetstone, CBN, or diamond-embedded wheel — rotates through a water trough. They remove material incredibly fast. Running at low speed, they make little noise. With the stones constantly covered in a film of water, you’ll never overheat the blade, and the swarf collects neatly in the trough. 

Home Kitchen Sharpeners

a tormek electric sharpener on a kitchen countertop, with the author sharpening a benchmade kitchen knife on it
Keeping kitchen cutlery sharp isn’t just for professional chefs, and regular upkeep makes for quick food prep; (photo/Ian Graber-Stiehl)

Keeping your kitchen cutlery sharp is a simple task, and kitchen knife sharpeners are the style that most will encounter in daily life. These can range from simple leather strops to keep a blade honed to electric pull-through styles that do the work for you.

Kitchen knives have much less variability in bevel angles and profiles, meaning that sharpening them can be less hands-on. The blade steel of kitchen knives also tends to be softer, meaning that a single grit can be used to take your knife from dull to slicing sharp again.

Pull-through style kitchen sharpeners are the easiest out there, and often only a few passes through one will get you back up and running. These sharpeners aren’t as precise, however, so if you’ve been gifted a nice Santoku knife, it’s better to use a guided electric sharpener, or, better yet, learn to use one of the manual angle-guided units we’ve highlighted.

a top-down image of a chef knife in a guided-angle manual style sharpener
The softer steel of most chefs’ knives makes them easy to sharpen quickly; (photo/Sean McCoy)

Electric sharpeners can quickly restore an entire knife block to shape, and countertop units require only passing the blade through a few times. These units won’t impress knife hobbyists, but are the better tool for those simply interested in getting lunch prepared.

We believe that rolling style sharpeners like the Work Sharp Rolling Knife Sharpener are a solid in-between for enthusiasts and the simply hungry. This sharpener is dead simple to use, but allows for varying angles and sharpening grits to be used.

Price & Value

Most sharpeners tend to break down pretty neatly into a few different price brackets. On the ultra-budget end of the scale are the DIY solutions that run a few bucks: sandpaper clamped to a mousepad or a homemade strop of leather glued to a 2×4. Then you’ve also got your fully electric countertop rotary sharpeners, which can command north of $500. Consider what you’ll be sharpening most, and how nice of a polish you want to put on your blades.

one of the authors passes a kitchen knife across the sharp pebble whetstone in a kitchen
A solid whetstone like the Sharp Pebble 1000/6000 can be a cheap entry into knife sharpening if you’re willing to learn the craft; (photo/Nick LeFort)

Budget

The $15-35 range is where you typically find touch-up tools like quality strops, hones, and pull-through sharpeners. The Smith’s Diamond Combination Sharpener ($20) is a great field tool, but it won’t do much more than tune up an edge.

Bench stones, especially when comparing oil, whet, and diamond stones, can range quite a bit. However, the vast majority fall into the $30-100 range. For home and hobbyist sharpeners, stones like the Suehiro CERAX 1010 ($33), Sharp Pebble 1000/6000 ($40), and DMT Dia-Sharp ($55) will offer the greatest versatility and bang for your buck of any offering.

Mid-Tier

From $140 to $350 is where most precision sharpeners fall: angle-guided system kits (most manual clamp or table-centric systems, and some powered). These typically come with a suite of different grit abrasives. The manufacturing companies also typically offer numerous optional attachments for different types of blades. 

Equipment in this range is typically much faster and more precise than freehand sharpening. The Work Sharp MK.2 ($90) belt sanding set-up is a dream to use and super versatile. With experience and accessories, these systems can be expanded into nearly pro-grade kits.

Premium

At the $400-1,500 end of the scale, we get into pro-grade systems that are capable of precision, versatility, and exceptional speed. Gear like the Wicked Edge Gen 4 Pro, the Tormek T-4 (and its bigger brother, the T-8), or full-on belt grinders can speedily regrind dozens of blades in a day.

However, the expense is hard to justify for non-pros — be they professionals at sharpening or in fields that involve working with a lot of sharp tools, such as trail builders, chefs, woodworkers, landscapers, and more.

a smaller knife clamped in the jaws of a wicked edge knife sharpener on a desk
Wicked Edge sharpeners command big bucks, but the pure ability you get is undeniable; (photo/Sean McCoy)

Frequently Asked Questions

What is one of the best knife sharpeners?

What’s best is heavily situational. For our pick, the Work Sharp MK.2 is a versatility-minded tool that can handle almost everything you throw at it, with a modicum of precaution. 

Otherwise, for simple, cost-wise versatility, little can beat a good whetstone like the Suehiro CERAX 1010 or Sharp Pebble 1000/6000.

What do professionals use to sharpen knives?

Professionals usually have a number of pieces of equipment that excel at different things. However, they largely fall into three categories:

Manual, angle-guided systems like the Wicked Edge Gen 4 Pro are often used to achieve precision, mirror-polished edges, especially on smaller blades.

For heavier sharpening water-cooled grinding wheel systems like the Tormek T-4 and T-8, and belt grinders (bladesmithing grinders at the extreme end and systems like the Work Sharp Elite Knife Sharpening Solution for smaller jobs) are common choices. 

Lastly, good, old-fashioned whetstones still have their place, especially for extremely acute or asymmetric edges, such as those found on Japanese chef’s knives. 

What really makes a professional job is understanding what type of edge a given blade requires, and how to use the tools available to get it done.

Are pull-through sharpeners bad for knives?

Pull-through sharpeners that use a carbide blade to sharpen both sides of a knife at the same time can damage edges very easily. Electric pull-through systems that sharpen one side at a time with a belt or grinding wheel, on the other hand, such as the Work Sharp MK.2 or Tormek T-1, can be fantastic.

Can you sharpen a knife too often?

Sharpening often won’t damage an edge. However, sharpening inherently requires removing material. Doing so too often and with too heavy a hand will eventually grind the edge of a blade higher and higher up, towards the thicker spine of the blade. This leaves it thicker and less slicy behind the edge.

An easy workaround is to regularly touch up a blade with a ceramic hone or a strop loaded with compound. Regular maintenance with light-handed tools can make it so that a blade rarely has to touch anything beyond relatively fine stones.

What happens if you never sharpen a knife?

In all likelihood, you cut yourself. A dull blade doesn’t just make a task harder, it makes it more dangerous. Not to mention, knowing how to sharpen a blade is a timeless skill.