Not all knife edges are sharpened equally, but all neglected edges are pretty equally useless. So, we tasked our edge obsessives โ the sorts who always regrind every factory edge to get them just right โ to round up the best knife sharpeners on the market.
The Best Knife Sharpeners of 2024
- Best Overall Knife Sharpener: Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition Elite Knife & Tool Sharpener MK.2
- Best Budget Knife Sharpener: Work Sharp Precision Adjust Elite
- Best Travel Knife Sharpener: DMT 6″ Double Sided Dia-Sharp Diamond Stone
- Best Professional Knife Sharpener: Wicked Edge Generation 4 Pro
- Best Field Sharpener: Smithโs Diamond Combination Sharpener
- Best Kitchen Sharpener: Tormek T-1 Kitchen Knife Sharpener
- Most Versatile Sharpener: Tormek T-4 Bushcraft
Led by Ian Graber-Stiehl, a professional blade sharpener, we tested each system against just about every blade you could come across: budget folders, chisels, professional cutlery, high-end EDC steels, axes, machetes, shears, horse clippers, saws โ you name it.
We used the systems here in kitchens, in the field, and at the workshop to see not only what they sharpen best but where theyโre best suited. After all, the field sharpener an angler uses for shore lunch touch-ups isnโt ideal for sharpening knives at a farmerโs market โ and a belt grinder that can quickly repair trail crew axes won’t be appreciated by the apartment neighbors of anyone using it nearby.
The result: Weโve compiled a list of not only the best of the best sharpening systems but also the edges with which they excel and where โ and a Buyer’s Guide at the end for everything you need to know to take your bevels to the next level. If sharpening knives is new to you, consult our Price & Value and Comparison Chart sections, as well.
- Sharpener Type: Electric belt sharpening system
- Angle Range: 10-35 degrees per side
- Grits: P120 (Extra Coarse), X65 (Coarse), X22 (Medium), X4 (Fine), 6000 (Extra Fine), 12000 (Super Fine)
- Size: 9 x 7 x 6โ
- Best For: Pocket Knives, Traditional Outdoor Knives, Kitchen Knives, Landscaping & Trail Tools
- Skill Level: 2 out of 5
Pros
- Quick grinding
- Incredibly versatile
- Wide angle selection range
- Easy to operate
- Freehand and guided sharpening modes
- Easily convexes edges
Cons
- Loud
- Messy/dusty
- Requires replacement belts
- Can overheat edges
Work Sharp Precision Adjust Elite
- Sharpener Type: Clamping, manual, angle-guided
- Angle Range: 15-30 degrees per side
- Grits: 220, 320, 400, 600, 800 grit diamond, ceramic plate, ceramic rod, compound-loaded strop
- Size: 11.5 x 4.5 x 7โ case
- Best For: EDC blades, cutlery under 9โ
- Skill Level: 1 out of 5
Pros
- Budget-friendly
- Takes up little space
- Easy to operate
- Rubberized clamp prevents scratching
- Swiveling clamp
- Good grit progression
Cons
- Limited low-angle options
- Angles not always accurate
- Struggles with large, thick blades
- Clamp flexes without support
- Slow at reprofiling blades
DMT 6″ Double Sided Dia-Sharp Diamond Stone
- Sharpener Type: Diamond bench stone
- Angle Range: N/A
- Grits: Fine/Extra Fine, Coarse/Extra Coarse
- Size: 2 x 6โ
- Best For: EDC blades, cutlery, woodworking tools
- Skill Level: 3 out of 5
Pros
- Fast-cutting abrasive
- Compact
- Versatile
- Less care required than oil or whetstones
- Good for higher-end, high-carbide steels
Cons
- Can rust if stored wet
- Grits somewhat coarse for rating
- Leave a heavy scratch pattern on edge
Wicked Edge Generation 4 Pro
- Sharpener Type: Manual, double-sided, clamped, angle-guided
- Angle Range: 12-28 degrees per side; 12-33 with Micro-Adjust
- Grits: 100/200, 400/600, 800/1000
- Size: 7 x 11 x 11.5โ
- Best For: Professional-level knife sharpening
- Skill Level: 2 out of 5
Pros
- Ease of use
- Consistency
- Range of accessories
- Integrated storage options
- Build quality
Cons
- Stock vice only accommodates blades under 5 mm thick
- Expensive
- Accessories required for acute and mirror-polished edges
Smithโs Diamond Combination Sharpener
- Sharpener Type: Handheld diamond field sharpener
- Angle Range: N/A
- Grits: 325/750 grit Coarse/Fine
- Size: 4 x 2 x 1โ
- Best For: In the field touch-ups
- Skill Level: 1 out of 5
Pros
- Lightweight
- Portable
- Versatile
- Integrated hook sharpener
Cons
- No reference angles
- Finishing grit relatively coarse
Tormek T-1 Kitchen Knife Sharpener
- Sharpener Type: Electric, rotary, pull-through
- Angle Range: 8-22 degrees per side
- Grits: 600 grit diamond, composite hone
- Size: 8 x 6.5 x 7โ
- Best For: Kitchen cutlery
- Skill Level: 1 out of 5
Pros
- Quick
- Incredibly quiet
- Simple
- Wide angle range
Cons
- Large profile for a kitchen sharpener
- No alternative grit wheels
- Easy to round out blade tips and heels
Tormek T-4 Bushcraft
- Sharpener Type: Electric, water-cooled grinder/rotary strop
- Angle Range: Nearly all of them
- Grits: 220 and leather honing wheel
- Size: 11 x 10.5 x 10.5โ
- Best For: Pro-grade sharpening
- Skill Level: 5 out of 5
Pros
- Unmatched versatility
- Fast, professional sharpening and reprofiling
- Wide angle range
- Quiet and clean
Cons
- Large
- Expensive
- Relatively high skill level needed
- Not best for convex edges
KME Precision Knife Sharpening System Deluxe Kit
- Sharpener Type: Manual, clamping, angle-guided system
- Angle Range: 17-30 degrees per side
- Grits: 50, 60, 100, 120, 140, 300, 320, 600, 1500
- Size: 1 x 4โ stones
- Best For: Travel-friendly jack of all trades
- Skill Level: 2 out of 5
Pros
- Compact size
- Quick grinding
- Easy operation
- Extensive grit range
- Modular
Cons
- Limited angle range
- Angles inaccurate without angle finder
- Sharpener Type: Manual angle-guided system
- Angle Range: 10-27 degrees per side
- Grits: 120, 220, 400, 600, 1000, and 1200 ceramic hone
- Size: 1 x 6โ stones
- Best For: Large knives and mirror-polished edges
- Skill Level: 3 out of 5
Pros
- Extensive angle range
- Accurate angle settings
- Quality polishing stones
- Good for large blades
- Numerous accessories
Cons
- Not the most stable base
- Easy to scratch blades
- Long guide arms makes storage difficult
- Less consistent with certain blade grinds
- Sharpener Type: Ceramic soaking whetstone
- Angle Range: N/A
- Grits: 1000
- Size: 3 x 8.25โ
- Best For: Everything โ with a steady hand
- Skill Level: 4 out of 5
Pros
- Quick cutting
- Larger than average
- Slow to load with swarf
- High feedback
- Higher than average polish
Cons
- Requires pre-sharpening soak
- Chips easily
- Sharpener Type: Angled rod sharpening
- Angle Range: 15 or 20 degrees per side
- Grits: Medium/Fine combo
- Size: 1.5 x 8 x 3โ packed
- Best For: Quick touchups and micro-beveling
- Skill Level: 2 out of 5
Pros
- Extensive angle range
- Accurate angle settings
- Quality polishing stones
- Good for large blades
- Numerous accessories
Cons
- Not the most stable base
- Easy to scratch blades
- Long guide arms makes storage difficult
- Less consistent with certain blade grinds
- Sharpener type: Soaking whetstone
- Angle range: N/A
- Grits: 1000, 6000
- Size: 2.2 x 7" stones
- Best for: Regular maintenance
- Skill level: 4 out of 5
Pros
- Quality, dual-grit stone
- Silicone insert keeps the stone in place
- The price is nice
- Bamboo case stays in place on granite, marble, and rough surfaces
Cons
- Bamboo case will move on butcher block
- Takes practice to truly master โ not very approachable for beginners
Knife Sharpeners Comparison Chart
Knife Sharpener | Price | Type | Angle Range | Best For | Skill Level |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition Elite Knife & Tool Sharpener MK.2 | $300 | Electric belt sharpening system | 10-35 degrees per side | Traditional knives, landscaping and trail tools | 2/5 |
Work Sharp Precision Adjust Elite | $140 | Clamping, manual, angle-guided | 15-30 degrees per side | EDC blades, cutlery under 9โ | 1/5 |
DMT 6โณ Double Sided Dia-Sharp Diamond Stone | $55 | Diamond bench stone | N/A | EDC blades, cutlery, woodworking tools | 3/5 |
Wicked Edge Generation 4 Pro | $1,000 | Manual, double-sided, clamped, angle-guided | 12-28 degrees per side; 12-33 with Micro-Adjust | Professional-level knife sharpening | 2/5 |
Smithโs Diamond Combination Sharpener | $20 | Handheld diamond field sharpener | N/A | In the field touch-ups | 1/5 |
Tormek T-1 Kitchen Knife Sharpener | $371 | Electric, rotary, pull-through | 8-22 degrees per side | Kitchen cutlery | 1/5 |
Tormek T-4 Bushcraft | $590 | Electric, water-cooled grinder/rotary strop | Nearly all of them | Pro-grade sharpening | 5/5 |
KME Precision Knife Sharpening System Deluxe Kit | $335 | Manual, clamping, angle-guided system | 17-30 degrees per side | Travel-friendly jack of all trades | 2/5 |
Edge Pro Apex 4 Kit | $285 | Manual angle-guided system | 10-27 degrees per side | Large knives and mirror-polished edges | 3/5 |
Suehiro CERAX 1010 | $33 | Ceramic soaking whetstone | N/A | Everything โ with a steady hand | 4/5 |
Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker | $127 | Angled rod sharpening | 15 or 20 degrees per side | Quick touchups and micro-beveling | 2/5 |
Sharp Pebble 1000/6000 | $40 | Soaking whetstone | N/A | Regular maintenance | 4/5 |
Burrfection Rolled Buffalo Premium Leather Strop | $63 | Compressed leather strop | N/A | Regular maintenance | 1/5 |
How We Tested the Best Knife Sharpeners
Not every blade is a knife, nor is every sharpening job simple. On a long enough timeline, every blade gets chewed up, chipped, and spit out. We have used many of these systems for years, but newcomers and longstanding favorites were all put through a diverse wringer.
The most consistent backbone of our head-to-head tests were Benchmadeโs Station and Table Knives, whose edges we dragged (with a heavy heart) along bricks until they were chipped, dull, and damaged. The CPM-154 steel, edge geometry, and the latterโs partial serrations made them an excellent analog for how each sharpener would handle heavy restoration and reprofiling of a broad spectrum of steels.
We also tested tool-oriented systems like the T-4 and Work Sharp Ken Onion MK.2 by reprofiling axes, machetes, and khukuris. Systems capable of sharpening saw teeth were put to task by touching up folding saws. Ultimately, every testee was thrown up against a broad array of different tools, edge geometries, and degrees of dullness.
Bench Testing
To get a good idea of how various sharpening systems performed in the real world, we tested each system against steels in three brackets. To approximate the maintenance of softer, lower carbide steels often used in bushcraft blades, axes, budget EDC blades, and mid-range cutlery, we used each system to sharpen steels like 1050, 1095, 14C28N, and AUS10.
The biggest range of testing was with the medium-high carbide content steels common to mid-to-high-end cutlery, fixed blades, and folders like S35VN, CPM-154, and M4. Lastly, to see how well each system held up to the hardest high-end EDC blades, we also used each sharpener with stubborn steels like S90V and S110V. A few diamond-base systems were also tested against ceramic knives.
Why You Should Trust Us
Our lead tester, Ian Graber-Stiehl, is an edge obsessive. Heโs a โknife guyโ through and through, who definitely doesnโt have a problem and can quit collecting anytime he wants. As a former bartender, cook, and hobbyist bladesmith, heโs lectured many coworkers about metallurgy and nearly strangled more than a few for chipping his santoku knife by tossing it in the sink.
Moreover, heโs professionally sharpened blades for commercial kitchens, antique axe and sword collectors, sushi chefs, home cooks, hairdressers, horse trainers, woodworkers, and more โ and never met a factory edge he didnโt completely reprofile within weeks.
Our testing team is also graced with Nick LeFort, a knife industry old-hand who has been writing about knives for 10 years and is part-owner of Ragged Mountain Knife Works. LeFort also extensively tests knives, hatchets, and multitools for GearJunkie, so you know he’s wearing knives out enough to need a good sharpener or three.
Buyerโs Guide: How to Choose a Knife Sharpener
Sharpening Science
There are many approaches to sharpening, but the principles are all the same. How coarse a grit you should start at depends. (Pro tip: Different companies and types of abrasives have different grit sizes, but if a company offers the size of the abrasive particles in its stones in microns, this is a universal unit.)
The more material you need to remove, the coarser you should start. For simple sharpening, coloring in the edge of a blade with a black marker makes it easy to ensure youโre matching the existing edge angle.
As you grind one side of a blade, you will form a burr: a thin, wiry piece of steel at the edge that folds over to the other side. A burr, especially with coarse stones, is easy to feel with your fingers or even see with the naked eye.
Form a burr on one side, then sharpen the other side until you form a burr in the other direction. Then move up in grit and repeat, sharpening each side until you form a burr and replacing the scratch pattern of the previous stone with the current, finer stone.
After stopping at your desired grit, all thatโs left is to break off that burr to reveal a fresh edge. This can be done in several ways: with hones, strops, or with a stone. Simply run the blade backward (think: the opposite direction of how youโd cut) at a slightly steeper angle on alternating sides until you break the burr off. Deburring, realigning warped edges, and light touch-ups are where hones and strops truly excel.
Factory Settings
Edges arenโt created in a vacuum. Their geometry is a compromise between doing a job as well as possible and working for as many users as possible.
Many pocket knives and Western kitchen knives, for example, are simply V-ground to around 20-odd degrees on each side, with the steel left relatively thick behind the edge. This makes for an edge that will cut well enough and be a bit harder for less careful users to chip and damage.
How an edge comes from the factory does not necessarily determine its best performance. The same blade that works well for one person left thick behind the edge with a steep angle might work better for another at a thinner and more acute angle.
Geometry Matters
Likewise, there are many different edge styles. The ones most divergent in sharpening experience are arguably convex, V-ground, micro-beveled, and asymmetric edges.
V-grinds are the easiest to manufacture and resharpen consistently. Pick an angle, stick to it, and grind. On the downside, V-grinds have a shoulder โ a sharp transition from the edge to the rest of the blade above, which has more resistance in the cut. They can also be harder for new sharpeners to freehand, especially in the field.
A V-grind with a few swipes taken on a fine stone at a steeper angle โ to hit the very apex of the edge โ simplifies things. For most resharpenings, only this โmicro-bevelโ at the very apex needs attention, speeding up touch-ups. On the downside, this makes for a steeper edge.
Asymmetric edges come in two flavors. On the extreme end, a chisel-ground edge is sharpened only on one side. The wide edge provides plenty of feedback when resharpening but steers your cuts in one direction.
More common, especially among Japanese cutlery, are edges that are sharpened at different angles on either side. These edges are often extremely acute and cut well. However, they can make sharpening more difficult โ especially on angle-guided systems, where sharpening each side requires completely changing settings.
Convex edges (think apple seed-shaped) allow for a steep angle at the apex, for a tougher edge, with a rounded shoulder for slicker cuts. This makes it much easier for them to be sharpened freehand. The tradeoff: sharpening on more angle-guided systems is considerably harder.
Different Strokes for Different Steels
Most steels tend to be relatively soft and easy to resharpen on almost any kind of stone, oil, and water. With these sorts of steels, the biggest hurdles are often repairing damaged edges โ especially for thick blades like axes, hatchets, bushcraft knives, and khukuris.
Thick blade stock means sharpening requires removing more material. So, reprofiling an edge and repairing large chips can still be a slow affair.
High-end EDC knives tend to trend toward steels that are chock full of carbides, which are harder than the abrasives in traditional whetstones and oil stones. This allows them to hold an edge for ages. However, this can make sharpening (especially reprofiling) these steels an exercise in tedium.
As a general rule, if the name of the steel in a blade starts with โCPMโ or โZDPโ โ doing the bulk of your sharpening with either a diamond abrasive or powered grinder is a good way to make life easier. We recommend reading up on the specific steel your blades are made from, as it will pay off during sharpening.
Types of Sharpeners
Ultimately, what type of sharpeners will work best for you is determined by a mix of what youโre sharpening, how much youโre sharpening, where youโre working, how skilled you are, and what your budget is.
The best sharpener for a home cook on a budget isnโt the best for professionally sharpening ultra-hard steels, nor is it ideal for a landscaper repairing damaged mower blades, nor is it the most neighbor-considerate option for apartment-bound bartender touching up the kitchen knives at home at 3 a.m.
Even so, whatโs more important isnโt the method. Itโs the edge at the end. After all, an edge that cuts reliably is less likely to cut you.
Sandpaper
On the simplest end of the scale is sandpaper. For hand-sharpening your average steels, most sandpapers will work โ though silicon carbide or ceramic sandpapers tend to perform the best.
Clamping sheets of sandpaper to a table is actually how our lead tester cut his teeth. The downside is that sandpaper is only as flat as the countertop you clamp it to. This actually makes sandpaper ideal for convex edges since it can be clamped to a flexible backing like a mousepad. Likewise, for a budget, lightweight field sharpener, you can wrap a strip of sandpaper around a block eraser for touch-ups.
However, sharpening with sandpaper can involve a fiddly setup and quite a bit of time, especially with harder steels. Likewise, being consumable, itโs usually more expensive in the long run than a good set of stones.
Bench Stones
There are many types of sharpening stones, but they traditionally come in two broad categories: oil and whetstones. The abrasives in these stones โ usually novaculite, silicon carbide, or aluminum oxide โ can overlap quite a bit. The distinction is in how the abrasive particles are bound together, how you use them, and how fast they cut.
The abrasives in oil (or Arkansas) stones are bound tightly into a hard stone. This means they wear slowly and donโt need much maintenance. Theyโre also fantastic for polishing.
However, a stoneโs wear exposes fresh abrasives. So, less wear makes for slower sharpening, especially with very high-hardness steels. Oil stones also clog more easily with steel particles or ‘swarf’. Fortunately, when an oil stone gets really clogged and discolored, a few minutes of warm, soapy water and a scrubby pad will clean it right up.
The abrasive particles in whetstones like the Suehiro CERAX 1010 or Sharp Pebble 1000/6000 are bound more loosely. This means the stones themselves wear more quickly and form an abrasive slurry. This makes for faster sharpening. However, most whetstones must be soaked in water before use and leveled more often than oil stones to stay flat โ typically with either a diamond plate or a leveling stone.
Plates embedded with diamond or cubic boron nitride (CBN) are less traditional but incredibly fast. Boasting, respectively, the worldโs first or second hardest abrasives; plates like the DMT Dia-Sharp Diamond Stone sharpen quickly, require minimal maintenance, and stay perfectly flat.
On the downside, diamond and CBN bench stones are often expensive, provide less feedback than traditional stones, and can be heavy-handed for lighter sharpening โ removing more material than needed and leaving heavy scratches on the edge.
Manual Angle-Guided Sharpeners
These incorporate any of the above abrasives into a system that secures the blade, allows you to dial in the angle, and uses a guide arm that holds a stone to sharpen at a consistent angle.
There are broadly two types of manual angle-guided systems. Clamp-based ones like the KME, Wicked Edge, and Work Sharp Precision Adjust Elite secure a blade in a clamp that can rotate to hit both sides of a blade. This makes them simple and easy to use.
However, the actual sharpening angle of these designs depends heavily on how far the edge protrudes from the clamp. Likewise, the point of contact, and thus the sharpening angle, will change on heavily curved parts of a blade. So, for precision obsessives, an angle-measuring cube of some type may be necessary.
Table systems, like the Edge Pro, require holding a blade on an integrated table with the edge hanging off. Because the bladeโs position can be manipulated, even with long and heavily curved blades, itโs much easier to keep a consistent angle.
On the downside, these systems are a bit more involved to operate. You also need to account for the angle at which blades with no flat sides will rest โ still making an angle cube a good idea. Swarf can also easily get on the table, scratching a bladeโs finish as itโs drawn along.
Electric Sharpeners
Thereโs no shortage of electric sharpeners. However, the best of them generally fall into two categories: belt systems and grinding stones.
Belt sharpeners are the quick-grinding kings, but speed comes with costs. Theyโre noisy. Consumable belts are a secondary cost. And even with belt sharpeners marketed for kitchen use, we at GearJunkie recommend using a face mask to keep from inhaling steel dust if youโre grinding at low grits or for more than a few minutes at a time indoors.
At high speeds and high grits โ especially on a belt with stiff backing โ friction (particularly at the tip) can overheat a blade. Dunking a blade in water helps, but it can be messy and time-consuming, and (for folding knives) it can get rust-prone swarf in the pivot without cleaning.
Systems like the Work Sharp Ken Onion MK.2 scale down the power and speed of a grinder. With more slack, the chances of the belt overheating a blade are lower โ though that slack means that youโll get slightly more of a convex edge. Adjustable angle guides make sharpening more precise and easier. That said, the dust and noise remain.
On the other end of the scale are powered grindstones. Although there are some systems like the Tormek T-1, which are meant to be used dry, the majority of grinding systems meant to be used for sharpening are water-cooled, like the Tormek T-4.
These are the behemoths of the list and easily the most complex systems. Their grinding wheel โ either a whetstone, CBN, or diamond-embedded wheel โ rotates through a water trough. They remove material incredibly fast. Running at low speed, they make little noise. With the stones constantly covered in a film of water, youโll never overheat the blade, and the swarf collects neatly in the trough.
Wet grinding systems are endlessly customizable, with jigs for every occasion. However, unless youโre either sharpening professionally or working with tools that need to be sharpened regularly (landscaping, woodworking, cooking, etc.), it can be hard to justify the bulk and expense.
Home Kitchen Sharpeners
Kitchen sharpeners arenโt a class unto themselves. That said, keeping kitchen cutlery sharp comes with certain considerations.
Countertop space can come at a premium. A full suite of soaking whetstones or a large powered grinder of some sort can take up a lot of space. A belt sanding system could contaminate food around with steel dust.
On the upside, most kitchen cutlery steels are considerably softer than most EDC steels. Likewise, itโs easy to touch up kitchen knives on the regular.
Pull-through sharpeners are very popular for kitchen use because of their size and ease. However, we at GearJunkie donโt recommend most of them. Most pull-through sharpeners use thin blades of tungsten carbide oriented in a v-shape to scrape material from a blade.
Aside from limitations like being slow for heavy sharpening, a limited ability to change the angle, and how easy it is to be inconsistent when drawing a blade through, these carbide sharpeners can damage blade edges.
Carbide blades are brittle. Steel, like wood, has a grain. Grinding both sides of an edge while scraping off the burr by drawing steel along the grain against a brittle material, and putting pressure on a very thin cross-section of the edge at a time, is an easy way to chew it up.
Electric pull-through systems that sharpen one side at a time using a belt (like the Work Sharp Ken Onion MK.2) or a grinding wheel (like the Tormek T-1) are much better and faster. They also allow you to adjust the sharpening angle.
As long as youโre not cutting with a straight edge on glass or ceramic plates or cutting board (an activity that both frustrates and keeps professional sharpeners employed), which is just about the quickest way to chip and dull an edge, most of the time kitchen knives will only need quick touch-ups to realign the edge.
A steel honing rod or strop works really well for realigning and polishing. Ceramic hones or strops rubbed with a sharpening compound remove more material, making them better for light sharpening as well.
Price & Value
Most sharpeners tend to break down pretty neatly into a few different price brackets. On the ultra-budget end of the scale are the DIY solutions that run a few bucks: sandpaper clamped to a mousepad or a homemade strop of leather glued to a 2×4. Then you’ve also got your fully electric countertop rotary sharpeners, which can command north of $500. Consider what you’ll be sharpening most, and how nice of a polish you want to put on your blades.
Budget
The $15-35 range is where you typically find touch-up tools like quality strops, hones, and pull-through sharpeners. The Smithโs Diamond Combination Sharpener ($20) is a great field tool, but it won’t do much more than tune up an edge.
Bench stones, especially when comparing oil, whet, and diamond stones, can range quite a bit. However, the vast majority fall into the $30-100 range. For home and hobbyist sharpeners, stones like the Suehiro CERAX 1010 ($33), Sharp Pebble 1000/6000 ($40), and DMT Dia-Sharp ($55) will offer the greatest versatility and bang for your buck of any offering.
Mid-Tier
From $140 to $350 is where most precision sharpeners fall: angle-guided system kits (most manual clamp or table-centric systems, and some powered). These typically come with a suite of different grit abrasives. The manufacturing companies also typically offer numerous optional attachments for different types of blades.
Equipment in this range is typically much faster and more precise than freehand sharpening. The Work Sharp Ken Onion MK.2 ($300) belt sanding set-up is a dream to use and super versatile. With experience and accessories, these systems can be expanded into nearly pro-grade kits.
Premium
At the $400-1,500 end of the scale, we get into pro-grade systems that are capable of precision, versatility, and exceptional speed. Gear like the Wicked Edge Gen 4 Pro, the Tormek T-4 (and its bigger brother, the T-8), or full-on belt grinders can speedily regrind dozens of blades in a day.
However, the expense is hard to justify for non-pros โ be they professionals at sharpening or in fields that involve working with a lot of sharp tools, such as trail builders, chefs, woodworkers, landscapers, and more.
Frequently Asked Questions
Whatโs best is heavily situational. For our pick, the Work Sharp Ken Onion MK.2 is a versatility-minded tool that can handle almost everything you throw at it, with a modicum of precaution.
Otherwise, for simple, cost-wise versatility, little can beat a good whetstone like the Suehiro CERAX 1010 or Sharp Pebble 1000/6000.
Professionals usually have a number of pieces of equipment that excel at different things. However, they largely fall into three categories:
Manual, angle-guided systems like the Wicked Edge Gen 4 Pro are often used to achieve precision, mirror-polished edges, especially on smaller blades.
For heavier sharpening water-cooled grinding wheel systems like the Tormek T-4 and T-8, and belt grinders (bladesmithing grinders at the extreme end and systems like the Work Sharp Elite Knife Sharpening Solution for smaller jobs) are common choices.
Lastly, good, old-fashioned whetstones still have their place, especially for extremely acute or asymmetric edges, such as those found on Japanese chefโs knives.
What really makes a professional job is understanding what type of edge a given blade requires, and how to use the tools available to get it done.
Pull-through sharpeners that use a carbide blade to sharpen both sides of a knife at the same time can damage edges very easily. Electric pull-through systems that sharpen one side at a time with a belt or grinding wheel, on the other hand, such as the Work Sharp Ken Onion MK.2 or Tormek T-1, can be fantastic.
Sharpening often wonโt damage an edge. However, sharpening inherently requires removing material. Doing so too often and with too heavy a hand will eventually grind the edge of a blade higher and higher up, towards the thicker spine of the blade. This leaves it thicker and less slicy behind the edge.
An easy workaround is to regularly touch up a blade with a ceramic hone or a strop loaded with compound. Regular maintenance with light-handed tools can make it so that a blade rarely has to touch anything beyond relatively fine stones.
In all likelihood, you cut yourself. A dull blade doesnโt just make a task harder, it makes it more dangerous. Not to mention, knowing how to sharpen a blade is a timeless skill.
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