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A good kayak paddle is essential for getting out in the water, and without one, well, you’ll be up the creek. We’ve paddled with plenty of them, and through years of casual and strict comparison alike, we’ve settled on the quiver of the best kayak paddles we’d take anywhere.

No one ever paddles the same river twice, and with kayaks ranging from sea-worthy expedition shells to plunk-around rec boats, using a paddle that is primed for the style of paddling you’re after is key to getting the most out of your kayak. From top picks like the Werner Shuna to casual and wallet-friendly options like the Carlisle Magic Plus, we think there’s something here for everyone.

Our experts consist of sea kayak and whitewater guides, packrafters, and even a few SUP tourers thrown in for good measure, and we used and abused these paddles over the course of many miles to figure out what makes them tick. We played with different lengths, feather angles, and blade profiles, and along the way, we formed a pretty good idea of what makes a kayak paddle great. Check out our top choices.

Editor’s Note: We updated our Kayak Paddles guide on November 20, 2024, to add our new favorite whitewater paddle, the Werner Powerhouse, and a new Price & Value section.


Specifications

Style
High-angle
Shaft Material
Carbon
Blade Material
Fiberglass laminate
Blade Shape
Mid-sized, asymmetrical, dihedral face
Ferrule
Smart View Adjustable; 60 degrees in either direction
Lengths
205, 210, 220, 230 cm
Weight
1 lb., 11.7 oz.

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • All-around design works for different paddling situations and water
  • Carbon shaft is available in standard and small diameters
  • Smart View Adjustable ferrule is excellent, very low profile
  • Blade reinforcement spine is strong and flattened for hydrodynamics

Cons

  • Fiberglass blades will start to accumulate marks, flex a bit under load
  • High angle design won't be for everyone
Nick Belcaster

The Werner Shuna ($335) is a paddler’s paddle, and touts a high-angle touring design that impressed with its even-keeled performance, light weight, and long-standing durability. Combining fiberglass blades with a full carbon fiber shaft, this paddle provides a powerful stroke that doesn’t flutter, and we’ve about done it all with the Shuna.

The Shuna’s wider power face is more conducive to powerful strokes and ones with a high angle of entry. This makes it ideal for muscling around strong ocean swells or even pushing through occasional whitewater. If your paddling style is more low-angle, the Werner Camano is the contemporary paddle to consider.

The dihedral face is a bit more muted than some other touring paddles, which helps to retain more power while still reducing flutter. With a good high-angle stroke, this paddle moved water excellently. Mated to these blades is a carbon fiber paddle shaft with a light texture to improve grip.

The Smart View Adjustable ferrule was undeniably our favorite design. It is a simple construction that offers 60 degrees of feather angle in either direction in 15-degree increments. This connection had zero play in our testing, and externally, only a small push button and a window to display your angle give it away.

Durability on a fiberglass paddle certainly isn’t lacking, but you will start to notice the battle scars build up as you use it. We noted a fairly thin edge on the Shuna, and while ideal for hydrodynamics, will need to be treated with care. There are no durability-enhancing materials used on the blade edge here, and that’s where you’ll see the most wear.

Available in lengths from 205 to 220 and both carbon and fiberglass blades, the Shuna is happy to do most all of it. If you’re a larger paddler (or have the muscles to paddle it), the Corryvreckan is the same paddle, just blown up, but for day-to-day ease of paddling, we’re sticking with the Shuna.

Specifications

Style
Low-angle
Shaft Material
Wrapped fiberglass
Blade Material
Fiberglass reinforced polypropylene
Blade Shape
Mid-sized, asymmetrical
Ferrule
Push-button; 0 and 60 degrees in either direction
Lengths
220, 230, 240, 250 cm
Weight
2 lbs., 7.8 oz.

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Budget pricing
  • Fiberglass shaft is textured and ovalized for grip, much nicer than an aluminum shaft
  • Glass-reinforced blades are stiffer than all plastic blades
  • Longer lengths for recreational paddling

Cons

  • Hefty at over 2 pounds
  • Push button ferrule isn't the most robust, had some slop in the fit
Nick Belcaster

Let’s start off by saying there are some bunk paddles out there. Cheap plastic blades, ill-fitting aluminum handles, and push-button locking mechs that rattle away into the shaft, never to be seen again. The Carlisle Magic Plus ($125) is not one of these — but it still hits the budget pricing we’re after for a casual paddle. 

A slight upgrade paddle from the brand’s Magic Mystic — an aluminum shafted paddle — the Magic Plus hits in all the right places and combines a fiberglass shaft with glass-reinforced polypropylene blades. This is the perfect compromise in our minds, providing a better paddle with little to no flex under pressure.

The paddle shaft is wrapped to provide a measure of grip for wet hands and is slightly ovalized for indexing your hands when the paddle is feathered — with an option of 60 degrees in either right- or left-hand control. Going with a fiberglass shaft over an aluminum one lightens things up and is also warmer to hold.

The available 220-250 cm lengths make this paddle ideal for flatwater paddles and long, sweeping strokes. The push-button ferrule was a bit loose from the start, and while we could feel it if we really paddled hard, it didn’t manifest often.

One metric the Magic Plus comes up short in is weight at 2 pounds, 9 ounces. Only the NRS Ripple was heavier in our testing, and even the super-budget Bending Branches Whisper weighed a bit less than the Magic Plus. For quick jaunts in the lake, however, we’d be lying if we said it’d ruin your good time.

Highly comparable to the Aqua Bound Sting Ray Fiberglass, the Magic Plus is the paddle to grab if you’re just getting into this kayaking thing, or need something to outfit a new paddler in the family.

Specifications

Style
Low-angle
Shaft Material
Carbon
Blade Material
Carbon with Dynel reinforced edges
Blade Shape
Mid-sized, asymmetrical, dihedral face
Ferrule
Smart View Adjustable; 60 degrees in either direction
Lengths
220, 230, 240 cm
Weight
1 lb., 9.2 oz.

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Bent carbon shaft is supremely stiff and reduces wrist fatigue
  • Smooth back blade face makes for clean entry
  • Smart View ferrule makes adjusting angle easy, and feels like a one piece paddle
  • Dynel reinforcement on the blade edges reduces likelihood of chipping

Cons

  • Bit bulky to store on deck of kayak
  • High cost of entry
Nick Belcaster

For extended days in the saddle and long transits, the Werner Kalliste Bent Shaft ($550) squeezes every last drop out. This low-angle stick sports mid-sized blades that cut effortlessly through a stroke, and the bent shaft variant puts wrists in a more neutral position as a safeguard against fatigue. Hefted in one hand, the Kalliste feels like a weapon.

As a full carbon design, the Kalliste is solidly in Werner’s tip-of-the-spear ‘Ultimate’ performance line, which is aimed at eking paddling efficiency out with smart blade tweaks. At a lofty 1 pound, 9 ounces, this paddle is feather-light and makes for effortless strokes. The sea kayak guides among us especially praised this paddle as being one of the easiest to move through the water.

Available in both regular and small shaft diameters, the grip and fit on the Kalliste is made for long tours, and the bent shaft puts your wrists where they need to be during the power stroke, limiting the strain that can creep on late in the day. A straight shaft version is also available, but for extended tours, we’ll take every percentage we can get.

On the backside of the paddle blade is a smooth face that dips in and out of the water easily, and the ultra-buoyant design springs from the water during strokes. Along the edges of the blades is a material called Dynel, a composite reinforcement that adds chipping resistance where needed most. We’ve had issues with full carbon paddles wearing along this edge in the past, and the addition here is well appreciated. 

In terms of critiques, it’s tough to rustle up any to hold against the Kalliste, though the bent shaft design does make storing the paddles on the deck of our sea kayaks awkward. The price is obviously glaring, and with some paddling around entire kayaks that cost as much, this paddle is certainly for folks who get out often, or who want to simple paddle the best.

Specifications

Style
Low-angle
Shaft Material
Carbon
Blade Material
Fiberglass reinforced nylon
Blade Shape
Mid-sized, asymmetrical, dihedral face
Ferrule
Posi-Lok; 60 degrees in either direction
Lengths
200-260 cm in 5 cm increments
Weight
1 lb., 14 oz.

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Excellent value for the ability
  • Posi-Lok ferrule is highly adjustable and strong
  • Lightweight carbon shaft keeps overall bulk down
  • Strong dihedral face splits water well, no flutter noted
  • Wide available variety of lengths

Cons

  • Nylon blades flex a bit under strong paddling
  • Blade volume is fairly low, and won't move a lot of water if you need to
Nick Belcaster

For the money, the Aqua Bound Sting Ray Hybrid Posi-Lok ($180) is a rightfully popular paddle and nails the needs of flatwater paddlers. The hybrid nylon/glass blades are robust enough to be bumped on the bottom repeatedly, while the carbon shaft lightens things up where it counts. 

Perfect for low-angle touring strokes, this paddle had us moving across lakes and bays with ease, and the mid-sized blades are well balanced with a defined dihedral that prevented flutter. The face of the blade is just under 600 cm², making this a fairly low-volume paddle that’s easy to move through the water.

The Posi-Lok joining ferrule on this paddle is neck and neck with the best out there. A simple two-button release splits the shaft, and infinite feather angles can be dialed in 15-degree increments. The carbon ferrule insert has a tighter interface than fiberglass and will stay that way for a good bit longer.

Compared to the other injection-molded low-angle kayak paddles we reviewed (the Werner Skagit FG and Carlisle Magic Plus), the Sting Ray Hybrid slides in a handful of ounces below both of them at 1 pound, 14 ounces. This might not seem like much, but the swing weight can certainly add up, and with the jump up to a full fiberglass blade being an extra $200, this paddle has some serious value.

For most folks, the Sting Ray Hybrid Posi-Lok would make an excellent daily driver of a paddle. The broad range of sizes makes it easy to dial in on what you need, the light weight won’t fatigue you prematurely, and the ferrule is a joy to use.

Specifications

Style
High-angle
Shaft Material
Fiberglass
Blade Material
Fiberglass laminate
Blade Shape
High-volume, asymmetrical, dihedral face
Ferrule
Fixed; R45/0/L45 or R30/L30
Lengths
194, 197, 200, 203, 206 cm
Weight
2 lbs., 3.2 oz.

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Exceptional durability and longevity
  • Powerful blade design for maximum control
  • Comfortable and intuitive to use
  • Proven reliability in tough conditions

Cons

  • Not the highest performing paddle on the market; carbon paddles are coming to dominate the market
  • Cumbersome to transport due to one-piece construction
  • Not the lightest WW model on the market
Nick Belcaster

While carbon fiber paddles are flooding the scene, we’re still rocking the Werner Powerhouse ($308) as our whitewater paddle of choice. This fiberglass blade balances the scales well and is able to put it down when it counts.

At 720 cm² of blade volume, the Powerhouse is the full-sized counterpart to the travel-ready Sherpa paddle and digs noticeably deeper. Recently, when paddling the rugged Thunder Creek in Washington State, we used the Powerhouse to navigate sections of water with must-make moves, and it performed admirably.

Though carbon fiber paddles like the Sho-Gun and Stealth have undeniably more backbone and power transfer, we find them to be less forgiving when the inevitable rock bashing occurs, and the glass blades on the Powerhouse have just enough give in them to bounce instead of break. The back of the blades sport a broad spine that stiffens up the whole affair, much like the Shuna and Sherpa paddles.

While the single-piece version of the Powerhouse will be the stiffest, we did sometimes want a slightly more packable version without going to the super-compact four-piece. If Werner made the Powerhouse in a two-piece variation, we’d be all over it. Even still, this paddle is our go-to for rough water.

Specifications

Style
High-angle
Shaft Material
Carbon
Blade Material
Carbon reinforced nylon
Blade Shape
High-volume, asymmetrical, dihedral face
Ferrule
Push-button, fixed angles of 0, 15, 30, 45, 60 degrees in either direction
Lengths
191, 194, 197, 200, 203 cm
Weight
2 lbs., 2.5 oz.

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Four piece design fits into packs or kayaks well
  • Rugged carbon shaft
  • Short lengths appropriate for whitewater paddling
  • Large blade volume really moves water
  • Affordable for a WW paddle

Cons

  • Nylon ferrule shafts aren't the most tight
  • Not true carbon blades
  • Feather angle is fixed
Nick Belcaster

Packrafters have some unique needs when it comes to a paddle, and one of the primary among those is the ability to be broken down and stashed away. The Aqua Bound Shred Carbon 4-Piece ($265) is a killer option for those looking for a whitewater-ready paddle that can be split and packed into your drop-in. 

Featuring a full carbon shaft and carbon-reinforced blades, the Shred isn’t a boat anchor either, and has a stiff flex that transmits power when you need it. We used this paddle to packraft down the Sauk and Dosewallips rivers in Washington, where it had enough oomph to keep us out of trouble in rapids.

Those four pieces tuck away nicely in packs as well, with the longest being 25” in our tested 200 cm paddle — easily fitting on the outside of our packs. This paddle also takes the possibility of a ferrule failure on long expeditions off the table by using a time-tested snap button system to unite the sections.

Thankfully, the Shred is available in four different angles in both right- and left-hand control, and five sizes, ranging from 191 to 203 cm. It’s important to remember that sizing a paddle for packrafting is different than for a hardshell kayak, and you’ll need to opt for a longer length to clear the wide tubes of your raft.

It’s important to note here that while the blades of the Shred are reinforced with carbon (in the same way that a fiberglass-reinforced nylon blade is), they still retain most of the characteristics of a plastic blade, with added stiffness. This can be a boon for paddlers who can’t keep from bumping around in rock gardens but don’t expect a feather-light blade here.

The one aspect you weren’t as stoked about on the Shred Carbon is the blade interfaces with the shafts, which aren’t as confidence-inspiring or tight as full fiberglass or carbon ferrules. We don’t anticipate any blades flying off anytime soon, but we’ll be watching in our long-term testing for any slop in the fit.

If you’re using your packraft to mainly traverse calm lakes or river crossings, you’ll likely be better served by a low-angle paddle like the Aqua Bound Manta Ray Carbon, or even the ultra-minimal Supai Olo Paddle. For packrafters who like to chase heavy water, though, the Shred Carbon 4-Piece is where it’s at.

Specifications

Style
High-angle
Shaft Material
Fiberglass
Blade Material
Fiberglass reinforced ABS
Blade Shape
Mid-sized, asymmetrical
Ferrule
Push-button, 0 or 45 degrees in either direction
Lengths
194, 197, 200, 210, 220, 230, 240 cm
Weight
2 lbs., 6 oz.

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Rugged glass-filled ABS blades are burly
  • Built-in index grip on paddle shaft
  • Available in a wide spread of lengths
  • Blades move some good water
  • Fiberglass shaft has a nice finish and grip

Cons

  • Blade to shaft interface is with rivets
  • Some flutter when paddled hard
Nick Belcaster

Ideal for bashing about while kayak fishing or during low-water passages, the NRS Ripple ($150) is a rugged paddle that honestly surprised us with its performance. It’s no willowy sea kayaking paddle, but the fit and finish are high-quality, and there are a few features not found on even high-end daily drivers.

Using hardier ABS plastic instead of polyethylene, the blades on the Ripple are just plain tough, and are mounted to a fiberglass shaft to keep things light. The swing weight on these blades is noticeable compared with fiberglass, but that’s not even on the radar for the types of paddling we used it for. 

With a blade profile similar to the Werner Shuna, the Ripple has a high-angle shape that responds well to deep strokes, and is powerful enough to get you moving quickly in rougher water. The blade is noticeably thicker, however, and we saw this manifest in a sloppier entry and exit while paddling. 

Decked out with a simple push button ferrule and three angle options, the big news on the shaft is the built-in hand index grip — a raised section added to the right side of the paddle to register your fingers and know you’re lined up with the paddle. While this is accomplished with ovalizing the shaft on other paddles, we liked the execution on the Ripple, and found it worked well.

The weak point on the Ripple is certainly the blade to shaft interface, secured with rivets — not our favorite. Were you to beat on the paddle mercilessly enough, this is certainly where it would give up the ghost. In all of our testing so far, however, we haven’t seen any loosening occur.

The Ripple may well be our favorite angling paddle — if it had a notch in the blade for retrieving lures. Even still, We were impressed at the ability this $150 paddle had, and for everything from flatwater to some splashy rivers, it paddled admirably.

Other Kayak Paddles That’ll Get You Down The Creek

Specifications

Style
Low-angle
Shaft Material
50% carbon/50% fiberglass
Blade Material
Fiberglass composite
Blade Shape
Low-volume, asymmetrical, dihedral face
Ferrule
Leverlock; infinite angles
Lengths
Fully adjustable between 220 and 240 cm
Weight
1 lb., 14 oz.

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Leverlock ferrule is adjustable in both length and angle
  • Blades enter and exit water with ease
  • Carbon/fiberglass blend shaft is strong and lightweight with full-carbon price
  • Adjustable length is great for paddlers with multiple boats

Cons

  • Comparatively pricey
  • Blade design will wear and chip
  • Ferrule design can become looser over time, need to be tightened
Nick Belcaster

The Wilderness Systems Pungo Glass ($350) is the perfect companion for a good rec kayak. The full fiberglass blades are noticeably lighter to paddle than plastic versions, and the 50% fiberglass, 50% carbon shaft is rock-solid through the power phase of a stroke.

It’s the novel ferrule system on this paddle, however, that really got our motors running. The Leverlock ferrule uses an expanding rubber stopper to hold fast, and can be adjusted in both length (220-240 cm) and infinite feather angles. While initial hold had a bit of slop, after snugging up the mechanism a bit the Leverlock held strong.  

The adjustable length makes this paddle ideal for passing around to different paddlers, or for someone who paddles a 20” wide touring shell one day and a portly fishing kayak the next. Adjustable length mechanisms are typically bulky, but the simple lever on the Pungo Glass keeps it out of the way.

Like other fiberglass paddles, the Pungo Glass will start to accumulate marks and scratches as time goes on, and the unique print design highlights these. You’ll need to take care not to leverage too harshly on the tip of the blade, such as pushing off during a launch, as this can damage or even snap the blade.

Like the kayak it’s named after, the Pungo Glass paddle is an absolute all-arounder, even-keeled across all the metrics we tested, and paddled well wherever we used it. It’s the higher price that keeps us from giving it a full-throated recommendation, but if you need wide adjustability, this paddle can do great.

Specifications

Style
High-angle
Shaft material
Fiberglass
Blade material
Fiberglass
Blade shape
Mid-size, asymmetrical, shallow dihedral face
Ferrule
Push-button; R45/0/L45 or R30/L30
Lengths
194, 197, 200, 203, 206, 209 cm
Weight
2 lbs., 8.7 oz.

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Wide blade surface area catches and holds water
  • Wide variety of feather angles available
  • Reinforcement spine is tough and resists blade flex
  • Custom-fit shaft sections fit tightly
  • Fiberglass blades have light swing weight

Cons

  • Steel push-button ferrule is durable, not not the highest performer
  • Larger paddlers may need the bigger Powerhouse
Nick Belcaster

The Werner Sherpa ($325) and its larger cousin, the Powerhouse, are classic whitewater paddles that have sliced, boofed, and skipped their way through some of the most wicked water on the planet. We tested this paddle in the rapids of British Columbia’s Cheakamus and Elaho rivers, where it hung tough through class III+ rapids.

With a broad 680 cm² face, this paddle is near the upper end of blade volumes, and is primed for digging into high-angle paddle strokes. A subtle dihedral across the blade keeps it from fluttering, and a broad reinforcement spine along the back braces against the flex that some fiberglass blades can have.

Werner’s multi-piece whitewater offerings all use stainless steel push-button ferrules to join — a choice we can get behind. While not as adjustable as some of the nicer ferrules used on other Werner paddles, there’s also less to break on the Sherpa, and it’s arguably the stronger interface.

This paddle is available in one-, two-, and four-piece designs, as well as straight or bent shafts and fiberglass or carbon blades. We paddled a fiberglass-bladed version of the Sherpa for our testing, and while a full carbon tool won’t flex at all, we actually enjoyed the nimbleness of the fiberglass — which felt more forgiving. 

If heavy water is all you’re after, a full-carbon one-piece surgical tool like the Werner Sho-Gun might be more up your alley. But for a more well-rounded paddle that’s up for whatever you toss at it, the Sherpa is our go-to.

Specifications

Style
Low-angle
Shaft Material
Carbon and fiberglass blend
Blade Material
Fiberglass reinforced nylon
Blade Shape
Mid-sized, asymmetrical, dihedral face
Ferrule
Smart View Adjustable; 60 degrees in either direction
Lengths
220, 230, 240, 250 cm
Weight
2 lbs., 1.7 oz.

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Great value for the performance
  • Carbon and fiberglass shaft is a stiffer upgrade over similarly priced paddles
  • Available in both standard and small diameter shafts
  • Sharp blade dihedral tracks true

Cons

  • Some deflection in the blades
  • Costs a bit more than comparable paddles
Nick Belcaster

Solidly in the budget-minded touring paddle camp, the Werner Skagit FG ($174) has some impressive value on board, and paddles near as well as some of the high-end low-angle paddles we’ve used. For many, this will be an excellent intro to kayak touring paddle.

We tested the Skagit in its namesake river, where broad muscling flows make for an enjoyable down-river float, and the paddle excelled. Its longer lengths make it ideal for low-angle paddle strokes and clearing the broad beams of recreational kayaks. For slow-moving water or relaxed paces, this paddle makes it happen.

The fiberglass-reinforced nylon blades keep the price down on this paddle, but in typical Werner fashion, don’t skimp on the design, and a sharp dihedral on the power face split water well in our tests. The 605 cm² blade volume is pretty middle of the road, and this paddle was easy on our joints after full days in the cockpit.

As most nylon blades do, there is some deflection in the depth of a stroke, which while not the best power transfer, does provide a bit more shock absorption. The Skagit’s carbon-fiberglass shaft bumps up the performance of this paddle compared to fiberglass sticks like the Carlisle Magic Plus or Aqua Bound Sting Ray Fiberglass, and the Smart View Adjustable ferrule is leaps and bounds ahead of the snap buttons on those paddles. 

Another solid do-it-all type paddle, the Skagit FG should be on the short-list for anyone serious about moving up from their rec boat and paddling further in a touring shell. The low-angle blades slip in and out of the water easily, and the carbon-blend shaft is an upgrade over similar paddles — making it well worth the extra $40 or so bucks.

Specifications

Style
Low-angle
Shaft Material
Carbon
Blade Material
Carbon and replaceable polyamide tips
Blade Shape
Greenland-style
Ferrule
Push-button 'Diamond Joint'; 0 angle adjustment
Lengths
210, 220, 230 cm
Weight
1 lb., 8.4 oz.

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Supreme ability in active sea swells, surf
  • Polyamide tips take abuse, and can be replaced
  • Small details like titanium hardware and carbon-spring push button
  • Very lightweight
  • Compact packed size

Cons

  • Pricey bit of kit
  • Steep learning curve to use effectively
Nick Belcaster

Read Review: Greenland-Style Paddles: Gearlab Kalleq Review

Greenland-style paddles are curious-looking things, and draw a lineage to the first paddles used to ply the waters of the Arctic coast — where driftwood was in short supply, and hunters needed a paddle to both transit and surf the waters. The modern Gearlab Outdoors Kalleq ($468) dresses the classic design in new materials and takes the simple stick design to the nth degree.

Available in three sizes (210, 220, and 230 cm), the Kalleq — which, by the way, is Inuit for lightning — is a full carbon fiber build that weighs all of 24 ounces. The paddle feathers down to a blade-like 1.1 mm at its thinnest, and enters and exits the water beautifully. Otherwise very simple, the Kalleq is a two-piece design that joins with a super-minimal ferrule, and sports polyamide tips to act as sacrificial bumpers in rocky waters.

While it might seem impossible even to get moving with such a narrow paddle, the volume of the power face is all there, just stretched out and requiring a more refined stroke to unleash the power behind this stick.

By cocking the upper edge of the paddle slightly forward, the paddle behaves much more like an airplane wing, creating a low pressure in front of the paddle and pulling you forward. It is efficiency that simply can’t be matched by Euro-style paddles.

That low profile also pays dividends above the water, as the Kalleq has no need to be feathered, as it doesn’t catch wind. While paddling, we felt much more connected to the water, and should you capsize, rolling with the Kalleq is also easier, as you don’t have to worry about the angle of the blade. This paddle isn’t relegated to only sea kayaking, either: We’ve even used it to paddle our canoe — to surprising success. 

Many will choose a Greenland paddle as a backup option on long sea kayak trips because of their low profile when secured on decks, but we’re not convinced that many wouldn’t be served better by the opposite arrangement. The Kalleq is absolutely a ‘try it and you’ll love it’ type of paddle, and it’s earned a few new adherents to the faith on our team.

Specifications

Style
Low-angle
Shaft Material
Aluminum
Blade Material
Polypropylene
Blade Shape
Low-volume, asymmetric, no dihedral
Ferrule
Push-button; 0 and 60 degrees in either direction
Lengths
210, 220, 230, 240 cm
Weight
2 lbs., 5 oz.

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Makes a great beginner or loaner paddle
  • Budget pricing
  • Strong blade to shaft interface
  • Handmade in Wisconsin
  • Aluminum shaft is strong and rigid, has rubberized grips

Cons

  • Hefty at over 2 pounds
  • Aluminum shaft is cold to the touch
  • Blades can snap if bent too far
Nick Belcaster

Budget-friendly and ideal for bulking out your stash of loaner paddles, the Bending Branches Whisper ($80) looks like many cheaper paddles but has a higher-quality, American-made fit and finish that distinguishes it from the rest. This won’t be the last paddle you buy in your life, but when it does kick the bucket, you also won’t mourn it.

The aluminum shaft is robust and gives this paddle a good backbone, and is a durable choice for sticking into the hands of kiddos who might choose to jettison it into rocks and trees. Two sections of rubberized grip provide a bit of thermal protection, as metal shafts can be a bit colder than their fiberglass counterparts.

The plastic blades are fairly simple and incorporate very little dihedral into the paddle face, which leads to a bit of fluttering when cranking on the Whisper. Expecting an $80 paddle to perform flawlessly isn’t our bag, and the paddle makes the grade for clunking around the lake.

At 2 pounds, 5 ounces, the Whisper isn’t exactly light (level the blame at the aluminum shaft), but it also won’t weigh you down, and we’d instead make the trade for durability here. We had no problem tossing this paddle on shore or in the back of our pickups, knowing it’d be just fine.

Even with its shortcomings, it isn’t hard for us to drum up a number of folks who would be excellently served by the Whisper: new and young paddlers who might not have the perfect stroke yet (or the ability to avoid hitting the dock) would do well with it. Folks who use a kayak as a ferry between shore and their bluewater boat would also appreciate the Whisper, as it’ll be just fine being stored on deck and deployed when needed.

Kayak Paddle Comparison Chart

Kayak PaddlePriceStyleShaft/Blade MaterialLengthsWeight
Werner Shuna$335High-angleCarbon, Fiberglass laminate205, 210, 220, 230 cm1 lb., 11.7 oz.
Carlisle Magic Plus$125Low-angleWrapped fiberglass, Fiberglass reinforced polypropylene220, 230, 240, 250 cm2 lbs., 7.8 oz.
Werner Kalliste Bent Shaft$550Low-angleCarbon, Carbon with Dynel reinforced edges220, 230, 240 cm1 lb., 9.2 oz.
Aqua Bound Sting Ray Hybrid Posi-Lok$180Low-angleCarbon, Fiberglass reinforced nylon200-260 cm in 5 cm increments1 lb., 14 oz.
Werner Powerhouse$308High-angleFiberglass, Fiberglass laminate194, 197, 200, 203, 206 cm2 lbs., 3.2 oz.
Aqua Bound Shred Carbon 4-Piece$265High-angleCarbon, Carbon reinforced nylon191, 194, 197, 200, 203 cm2 lbs., 2.5 oz.
NRS Ripple$150High-angleFiberglass, Fiberglass reinforced ABS194, 197, 200, 210, 220, 230, 240 cm2 lbs., 6 oz.
Wilderness Systems Pungo Glass$350Low-angle50% carbon/50% fiberglass, Fiberglass compositeFully adjustable between 220 and 240 cm1 lb., 14 oz.
Werner Sherpa$325High-angleFiberglass194, 197, 200, 203, 206, 209 cm2 lbs., 8.7 oz.
Werner Skagit FG$174Low-angleCarbon and fiberglass blend, Fiberglass reinforced nylon220, 230, 240, 250 cm2 lbs., 1.7 oz.
Gearlab Outdoors Kalleq$468Low-angleCarbon, Carbon and replaceable polyamide tips210, 220, 230 cm1 lb., 8.4 oz.
Bending Branches Whisper$80Low-angleAluminum, Polypropylene210, 220, 230, 240 cm2 lbs., 5 oz.

How We Tested the Best Kayak Paddles

A selection of kayak paddles set side-by-side for comparison
An okay kayak paddle will get you there, but a great paddle will be much more enjoyable to use; (photo/Erika Courtney)

Kayak paddles are your connection to the water you’re moving through — like an extension of your arms — and can be pretty personal so far as recreation equipment goes. Each behaves a bit differently while using, which often boils down to some pretty minute differences in angle, thickness, or material. 

Our Expert Testers

A casual glance might conclude that most paddles are the same, but it’s all this we aimed to hone in on in our testing. Our testing team is well qualified for the job, too: Lead tester Nick Belcaster is a kayaker and packrafter out of Washington State, where he takes full advantage of the Cascade Range and the waters that flow from it. His testing for this guide saw him making a few multiday kayak trips in the Salish Sea, and paddling hard in rugged water in British Columbia.

Tester Wil Henkel brings a depth of experience to the team, with a history as both a sea kayak guide in the Pacific Northwest and a whitewater guide and teacher in Ecuador. He’s paddled everything from full-on touring shells to agile creek and play boats, and used just as many paddles. Wil handled our heavy water paddles for this review and gave them the proper blessing required before mashing on them.

A packrafter paddles a Werner Shuna paddle in the Nooksack River in Washington State
Take a touring paddle whitewater packrafting? We stress-tested these paddles out of their element to get a better feel for strengths and weaknesses; (photo/Nick Belcaster)

Our Testing Process and Testing Grounds

Our testing was just as much structured as it was casual, with testing revolving around performance, ease of use, and value. We spent entire days in the lake passing paddles around, and focused intently on the entry, power phase, and exit of each stroke. Every paddle was used by both a seasoned vet and a beginner to gauge relative approachability, and each was set up and broken down scores of times to survey for wear.

And, to best understand the sport-specificity of these paddles, we used them to where they were most comfortable, and where they stood out like a sore thumb. This meant paddling fully loaded sea kayaks with whitewater paddles, using Greenland-style sticks in our canoes, and while we wouldn’t suggest paddling your bash-around creek boat with a $500+ full carbon touring scalpel, we did it so you don’t have to.

All of this testing gave us the best idea of what makes a paddle good at what it does, and shook out our list of the best available today. Our testing continues on a year-round basis, and as new paddles become available, we’ll loop them into the circuit to ensure our selection is as accurate as possible. 

Buyer’s Guide: How to Choose a Kayak Paddle

A kayaker in a sea kayak takes a deep stroke while two other kayakers paddled behind him
Your paddle should be a matched pair with your kayak, each complementing the other; (photo/Erika Courtney)

While there are plenty of paddles on the market, nailing your purchase the first time is not only a great feeling but will provide you with the performance you’re after and complement your kayak. Besides a good PFD, a paddle is essential to getting out on the water.

There’s a surprising amount to consider baked into kayak paddles — from dihedral angles to power face volumes and entire textbooks on hydrodynamics that we won’t pretend to understand. We do, however, know a good paddle from a lackluster one, and the following should get you up to speed.

Types of Kayak Paddles

Before exploring anything else, you’ll need to determine the type of kayaking you’re looking to do with your paddle. Some paddles are versatile enough to be used for multiple styles of paddling, while others are hyper-focused and designed for a specific kind of paddling.

Recreational and Touring Paddles

The majority of paddles out there will fall into this category and are used for casual day boating or going a little deeper with your touring kayak. Typically longer to accommodate a shallower stroke angle, these paddles can be found between 205 and 260 cm and feature what are called Euro-style blades, which are roughly flower pedal-shaped and made for efficiency.

Recreational paddles are often constructed using fiberglass handles and nylon blades, though some choose the slightly nicer glass-reinforced blades for a bit more durability. Touring paddles need to be light for longer days of paddling, and they often use fiberglass or carbon shafts and blades to trim the weight.

A packrafter in a red boat paddles the Werner Sherpa paddle, which has a broad paddle volume
Whitewater paddles need larger power faces to catch water and hold it through the entire stroke; (photo/Chris Anders)

Whitewater Paddles

Made for the splashy stuff, whitewater paddles are more about the power and ability to move water quickly. They are typically shorter — between 190 and 200 cm — as they need to be paddled quicker and deeper into the water than recreational paddles.

Whitewater paddles are also more durable, as they are more likely to be bashed into rocks or trees. High-end whitewater paddles are often all carbon fiber, which offers the greatest power transfer.

Paddle Performance

A kayaker in a rain jacket paddles a Carlisle Magic Plus paddle in a lake in Canada
Deep in the catch, all of the power is generated during this segment of the stroke; (photo/Erika Courtney)

A paddle’s performance is a concert of several things, but it all comes down to the stroke — more specifically, the three components of the stroke: the catch, the pull, and the exit.

The catch is the initial part of the stroke where you place your blade in the water. Leading with your shoulder and pointing toward the bow, your paddle blade should enter the water with ease as you wind your body up. Here, a thin paddle edge makes for an easy entry.

As you begin to dig into the water, the pull is where your power is generated, and you’ll rotate your torso to lead the paddle through the stroke. During this phase is where something called flutter can occur, which is the blade twitching as it’s pulled from side to side in the water. This can be dealt with by angling your paddle slightly or using a paddle with more dihedral.

Finally, the exit is the withdrawal of the blade from the water, and winding up for another paddle stroke on the opposite side. This occurs about as the blade passes your hip, and you should aim to pluck the paddle up out of the water as you reset for another paddle.

Style of Paddling: Low- vs. High-Angle Blades

A kayaker paddles with a low-angle paddle stroke
A long-angle stroke like this is more sustainable over long distances, or just for cruising around; (photo/Nick Belcaster)

After reading up on some of the science, it’s time for a bit of the art. Paddling is comprised of a number of different strokes that move your paddle through the water, generating motion. The manner in which you make these strokes reflects greatly on how you move through the water, and one of the biggest differences lies between the high- and low-angle strokes.

The low-angle stroke is a more horizontal one, roughly between 20 and 30 degrees if you imagine your paddle shaft making the third side of a triangle between your body and the surface of the water. This stroke requires less effort and puts less stress on your joints, making it better for long-distance kayaking or leisurely paddles. The Werner Kalliste, Skagit FG, Aqua Bound Sting Ray, Wilderness Systems Pungo, and Bending Branches Whisper are all low-angle paddles.

A kayaker executes a deep, high-angle paddle stroke
A high-angle stroke puts more power down, but requires a bit more finesse and will take more effort; (photo/Erika Courtney)

A high-angle stroke places the blade more vertically in the water, and digs deeper to generate more power. This stoke is more energy-intensive, but muscles your kayak around quicker, making it ideal for rolling coastal waters or whitewater kayaking. The Werner Shuna, Sherpa, Powerhouse, Carlisle Magic Plus, Aqua Bound Shred, and NRS Ripple are all high-angle paddles.

Both of these strokes benefit from a differently shaped blade. Low-angle blades are typically longer, narrower, and mounted to longer paddle shafts. This allows them to enter the water more easily. The blades on high-angle paddles are wider than low-angle paddles, and have higher surface areas to catch and hold the water. Their paddle shafts are more often shorter, as they intersect the water closer to the hull of the kayak.

You’ll notice that most touring paddles sport a low-angle blade, and most whitewater paddles use a high-angle blade, though this is not always the case. Our favorite paddle for just about anything, the Werner Shuna, is a high-angle paddle meant for touring in water that might be more turbulent. 

Feather Angle and Hand Control

A kayaker demonstrates the Smart View Adjust ferrule on Werner paddles
The feather angle of your paddle can be changed by adjusting the ferrule; (photo/Scott Wilson)

Almost all kayak paddles allow for an adjustment known as feathering, which changes the angle between the two blades. This is done to best position the blades as they enter the water and eliminate the excessive wrist flexion required with a neutral-angled paddle, as well as reduce the wind resistance of the exposed paddle.

These adjustments are made possible by the paddle’s ferrule, which is the joining interface that can be set at different angles and locked in place. These ferrules can be of a few different designs, with the most basic being a push-button ferrule, which often offers only three different holes: 60 degrees in either direction and zero.

More advanced ferrules such as Werner’s Smart View Adjustable or Aqua Bound’s Posi-Lok ferrule offer up many more angles and locks solidly to provide single-piece-like performance. Which direction you feather your paddle will depend on your dominant hand, which will become the side you control the paddle from. 

Deciding which feather angle to use, or even any angle at all, is highly personal, and we recommend trying out many to see how they feel. Most flatwater paddlers will use an angle between 45 and 60, while whitewater kayakers find a lower angle suits their deeper paddle strokes.

Blade and Shaft Design

Three kayak paddles in a row show the different in blade size and shape
Blade shape, volume, and angle all interplay to greatly affect how your paddle moves through the water; (photo/Nick Belcaster)

Paddle Blades

The blades of your paddle are where the magic happens, and there’s quite a bit of hydrodynamics going on between every stroke. The power face is the side of your paddle that’s facing you while paddling, and it’s the one that is catching the water.

This face can often incorporate a dihedral shape, which is a bevel that adds a leading edge to the middle of the paddle to split the water. This is added to help prevent flutter, which occurs when a paddle is trying to turn sideways as it is drawn through the water. Typically, touring paddles will incorporate a higher degree of dihedral than whitewater paddles.

The shape of a paddle blade is also hugely important, and most kayak paddles will have an asymmetric shape — with a longer upper edge. This is done to push the paddle deeper into the stroke when it’s pulled through the water, and makes the paddle directional.

The length and width of a paddle can also change its characteristics, with low-angle paddles being longer and typically more narrow to more easily pass in and out of the water. Whitewater paddles are shorter and wider, to best concentrate the power face and push more water.

Finally, Greenland- or Aleutian-style paddles sport entirely different style blade profiles, and are elongated spars that spread their power face across a long cross section. 

Greenland-style paddles sport similar volumes to European-style paddles, just stretched out across their length; (photo/Mark Neuzil)

The volume of your paddle blade is an excellent metric for comparing the relative power between paddles, and most kayak paddles sport a 550-750 cm² blade volume. Low-angle touring paddles like the Wilderness Systems Pungo Glass (595 cm²) are on the lower end of the scale, as the slower cadence stroke used to paddle them doesn’t need to move as much water, and they typically paddle kayaks that don’t take much effort to keep moving.

The 615 cm² of the Werner Shuna is indicative of a mid-sized blade that is designed as an all-arounder, and can be paddled in a low- or high-angle stroke to make the best use of its surface area. Some paddles like the Shuna are offered with like-designs that are just enlarged for bigger paddlers, and the Werner Corryvreckan bumps up the volume to 721 cm² — a significant difference for those who need to push more water.

Whitewater paddles will occupy the upper end of the spectrum, and 720 cm² of the Werner Powerhouse and 710 cm² of the Aqua Bound Shred Carbon both move significantly more water compared to thin touring paddles when compared side-by-side.

Paddle Shafts

A kayaker demonstrates the Posi-Lok ferrule found on Aqua Bound paddles
Your paddle shaft is more than a handle, and needs to handle a lot of lever force to work properly; (photo/Erika Courtney)

The paddle shaft is your connection to the water, and it is much more than just a stick to connect your paddle blades (though Greenland paddles do sport that nickname). As a handle, the paddle shaft needs to be comfortable for all-day paddling, as well as have enough backbone to transfer your power into the blades and propel you forward through the water.

Aluminum shafts are used on budget paddles in order to save on material and construction costs, and while stiff, are heavier than other constructions. Fiberglass is a much more viable alternative, in our opinion, and is much lighter while still transferring good power. As a composite material, fiberglass can be mixed with carbon fiber in order to gain additional strength, without the cost of going to full carbon.

A full carbon paddle shaft, however, is a wonder to use and is both supremely light and strong, transferring the greatest level of power and deflecting the least under load. Paddle shafts can also differ in their shapes, with ovalization being the most common. This involves flattening the shaft where your palm will grip, in order to add an index to reference.

Bent-shaft paddles are the extreme end of the spectrum, and angle the grip sections of the shaft inward to better reduce the angle your wrists have to make during the power segment of the stroke. This can assist folks with joint issues or prevent them from happening in the first place. The length of your paddle, too, plays a role in that lever effect, and which size to go with has a lot to do with the kayak you’ll be paddling.

Wider recreational kayaks will call for a longer paddle, while narrower beam touring kayaks can be paddled with a shorter paddle. Your height also plays a role in this decision, with taller paddlers requiring longer sticks, and shorter kayakers needing shorter ones. Some paddles, like the Wilderness Systems Pungo Glass, are adjustable in length, meaning you can fine-tune your paddle to the kayak you’re using that day, or hand it off to others and fit them as well.

Weight

The carbon fiber Werner Kalliste paddle drips after use
A full carbon paddle feels like barely anything, which can make a big difference when you’re paddling for a full day or touring; (photo/Nick Belcaster)

In general, light is right when it comes to kayak paddles. You’ll be using your whole body to pull them through the water, and while a few strokes won’t make a difference, an entire day with a hefty paddle will wear on you. Recreational paddles typically aren’t as concerned with weight, as you might only be paddling them for an afternoon, and often weigh around 2 pounds.

Lightweight carbon fiber paddles can trim quite a bit of weight, and the Werner Kalliste trims a half pound off the average. For long-distance kayak touring, this weight-for-money exchange can be a worthwhile one. Typically, however, swing weight is actually a more important metric to pay attention to, as this is much more noticeable while paddling. For example, you’ll immediately notice the difference in switching from a nylon blade paddle like the Werner Skagit FG to a fiberglass one like the Shuna.

Weight, too, can be a factor when carrying your paddle outside your kayak, such as carrying a packraft into a remote river. The Aqua Bound Shred Carbon uses a carbon shaft and carbon-blended blades to trim that fat a bit and makes this an ideal paddle for packrafters.

Price & Value

A fisherman paddles the NRS Ripple paddle in their NRS Pike inflatable kayak
The NRS Ripple is a tough yet economical paddle; (photo/Erika Courtney)

Budget

The price of your kayak paddle will closely follow the materials used to make it, with a few tiers shaking out as such: Basement budget paddles will be made with aluminum shafts and plastic blades, and joined together with simple (and sometimes less-than-durable) push-button ferrules.

While there are many lesser paddles on the market, we keyed in on the Bending Branches Whisper as being one of the worthy of picking up in the less than $100 range.

Adding a fiberglass shaft and reinforcing the paddle blades with glass or carbon bumps the price up to $125-180, and these paddles hold a surprising bit of value. For anyone who is serious about getting into kayaking, or just wants a spare paddle to keep around, these can be ideal.

The Carlisle Magic Plus was our best budget pick at $125, and while missing some fit and finish, still gets us home every time for all-around recreational paddling.

The NRS Ripple ($150) and Werner Skagit FG ($175) are both similarly good values, with the Ripple being bang-around ready with ABS blades, and the Skagit boasting a primo Smart View Adjustable ferrule found on higher-end paddles. The Aqua Bound String Ray Hybrid ($180) commands a bit more for the carbon shaft it uses, and at 30 ounces is impressively lightweight for long kayak touring.

A kayaker in a purple touring kayak paddles a Werner Skagit FG paddle
Hybrid paddles that combine a carbon shaft with reinforced nylon blades have excellent value, with the Werner Skagit FG and Aqua Bound String Ray Hybrid being notable examples; (photo/Nick Belcaster)

Mid-Tier

For around $200-400, you’ll begin to see full fiberglass blades, and even some hybrid and full carbon shafts. These paddles span the spectrum of uses, but will be more refined with higher-quality blade shaping, including detailed reinforcement spines, and be joined together with carbon-insert adjustable ferrules.

The Aqua Bound Shred Carbon ($265) boasts a full carbon shaft combined with unique hybrid carbon-reinforced blades, which makes it a tough option for packrafters.

The Wilderness Systems Pungo ($350) retains the fiberglass blades but uses a 50% carbon, 50% fiberglass blend to give the shaft a bit more backbone. The uber-adjustable ferrule is the draw here and helps explain the price. The Werner Shuna ($400) and Sherpa ($415) are similarly specced-out paddles, just designed for different types of water and paddling styles.

Premium

North of $450 is the realm of specialty paddles, and typically full carbon builds that squeeze every last drop of performance out. The Gearlab Outdoors Kalleq ($468) is just such a tool, and is hyper-focused on ocean paddling in surf. The Werner Kalliste ($550) is similarly dialed in for the open ocean, focusing intensely on blade design and balance to create a paddle for long-distance kayaking.

The full carbon Gearlab Kalleq is a pricey paddle, but for those dedicated to the sport of sea kayaking, the spend can be worth it; (photo/Mark Neuzil)

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best entry-level kayak paddle?

While there are many very cheap kayak paddles on the market, we hesitate to recommend many of them, as they are most often built with aluminum shafts, cheap plastic blades, and flimsy ferrule connections. We’d urge you to spend at least $100 on a kayak paddle you aim to use often.

The Carlisle Magic Plus ($125) is an excellent option, in our opinion, as it utilizes a lightweight fiberglass shaft and stronger glass-reinforced nylon blades — both important to keep paddling stress low and prolong the life of your paddle.

Is it better to have a longer or shorter kayak paddle?

If you’ve done your research and consulted paddle sizing guides, taking into account the style and width of your kayak, and are still on the fence and in between sizes, going with a shorter paddle is often the safer bet. This will ensure that your paddle strokes aren’t causing you to waggle the kayak too much, and will keep you from stressing your shoulders.

There are certainly instances where going with a slightly longer or shorter paddle than recommended makes sense, such as if you’re in an abnormally wide kayak (go longer), or if you’re in a playboat and looking to paddle whitewater (go shorter).

Is carbon fiber or fiberglass better for kayak paddles?

Both carbon fiber and fiberglass offer different feels and utilities in kayak paddles, as well as price points. Fiberglass is a less expensive composite material and, while still stiff, isn’t quite as stiff as carbon fiber.

When used in blades, fiberglass can either be used entirely, or used as a reinforcement and mixed into a nylon blade to add rigidity. Paddle shafts made from fiberglass typically have a bit of give, but are quite light overall.

Carbon fiber is stronger and lighter than fiberglass, but it is also more expensive. It has very little give when paddled hard, which can make the most of the power you’re putting down, but can also be a bit harsh for some people. Carbon fiber paddle shafts are very rigid, and blades made with the stuff don’t deflect much at all.

Why do you feather a kayak paddle?

Feathering a kayak paddle does a number of things for you, including reducing the effect of wind on your paddle blades, as well as creating a more ergonomic motion that doesn’t require your wrists to pivot as much. The amount and direction you might feather your paddle will depend on your preferences, as well as which hand you will ‘control’ the paddle with — typically your dominant one.

Do expensive kayak paddles make a difference?

For everyday and casual paddling, probably not. But if kayaking is decidedly your thing, then an expensive kayak paddle certainly can make a difference. More important, however, is likely dialing in on exactly what you need out of a kayak paddle, and getting one that fits that exactly.

Before shelling out the big bucks, consider a tailored mid-range paddle like the Wilderness Systems Pungo Glass or Werner Shuna, or even the better-than-budget choices like the Aqua Bound Sting Ray Hybrid or Werner Skagit FG. All will be a significant upgrade from a starter paddle like the Carlisle Magic Plus, and don’t command the dollar signs that full carbon jobs do.

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