The Best Climbing Belay Devices of 2024

The first iteration of the Petzl GriGri debuted in 1991. Since then, this versatile device has been widely considered the world standard for belay devices.

Many other manufacturers have based their belay device designs on the GriGri. But after 30-plus years, the GriGri continues to shine.

For gym climbing to single-pitch cragging, the GriGri can do everything you need it to. When it was introduced, the GriGri ($110) was one of the first assisted-braking belay devices on the market. Its effective design has only slightly changed in the years since.

The GriGri uses an internal mechanism to pinch the climbing rope anytime the rope is pulled quickly through the device. For example, in the case of a lead fall, the rope pulls upward on the GriGri and grabs the rope, which arrests the fall. Following the GriGri’s lead, many other assisted-braking devices now utilize a similar design.

There have been four versions of the GriGri to date. In 2019, Petzl released the newest version, and we think it’s the best overall belay device available in 2024. The device is compatible with ropes measuring 8.5-11 mm.

The GriGri is especially known for its comfort during prolonged sessions of projecting single-pitch climbing routes. A climber can hang on the rope for long periods, and the belayer can wait comfortably without having to actively squeeze the rope or create tension.

Compared to manual tube-style devices like the Black Diamond ATC-XP, the GriGri is a far more comfortable option for lengthy belays and projecting.

Like with many assisted-braking belay devices, a climber can’t load the GriGri with two strands of rope at once, which limits its rappelling capabilities. While multipitch climbing, the GriGri works well for belaying the following climber from above. However, it has limited application for multipitch climbing due to its single-strand design.

While the GriGri is by far the most common belay device of today, it’s not the easiest to learn how to use. Climbers must learn how to use their GriGris from a qualified instructor. No matter their experience level, all climbers can learn how to use a GriGri — but they must be willing to put in the time required to master safe practices.

Currently, Petzl offers two GriGri styles. Our pick for best overall is the 2019 version of the GriGri, which retails for $100. Petzl also continues to sell the GriGri+ ($140), which was introduced in 2017 and features wear-resistant components and an anti-panic feature.

Many climbers find the anti-panic features to be excessive and inconvenient. Both options are good, bu0t we prefer the newest GriGri.

While no device truly challenges the GriGri’s place at the tope, the Trango Vergo ($100) is a decent substitute for a slightly lower price. The Vergo is light, compact, and great for serving up silky lead belays. It’s fairly intuitive to use too. For most new climbers, the Vergo will have a shorter learning curve than the GriGri.

This device is recommended for use with ropes between 8.9 and 10.7 mm in diameter. This range covers most ropes on the market, but as ultra-thin ropes gain popularity, the Vergo may be left behind. Many other devices can accommodate ropes down to 8.5 mm.

Unlike the GriGri, the Vergo doesn’t tempt belayers to override the rope-grabbing component when feeding out slack. Some climbers consider this aspect of the GriGri to be a design flaw and safety issue, and the Vergo remedies this. The Vergo lowers just like a GriGri, and is arguably more durable due to fewer moving parts.

Ultimately though, the Vergo can’t compete with the GriGri on reliability, versatility, and sheer popularity. While top roping, the Vergo puts lots of friction on the rope, which requires the belayer to work harder than they should. Though the Vergo’s lead belaying capabilities are top-notch, you might get some funny looks if you bring one to the crag or gym — skepticism is high amongst the GriGri faithful.

For more information on the Vergo, check out our full review.

This simple belay device is a variation of the standard tube-style device that climbers have been using for many decades. While it isn’t the absolute cheapest belay device option on the market, we think it offers great value as a relatively affordable option.

The main feature that sets the ATC-XP ($25) apart from standard manual tube-style devices is the set of toothed grooves inside both of its tubes. These grooves increase friction on the rope while in use, which makes it slightly easier to control speed while lowering a climber or rappelling. Thanks to these grooves, a belayer can lock off the device and hold a resting climbing with significantly less effort.

While the ATC-XP is our pick for the best budget belay device, it’s also a good choice for learning the basics of belaying as a new climber. Thanks to its simple and durable construction, this device tends to last for many years, even with regular use.

The ATC-XP is a non-assisted braking device, meaning it requires a belayer to grab the rope in order to arrest a fall. Many people still belay with non-assisted braking devices like the ATC-XP. However, the climbing world is slowly phasing out this style of belay device, much like figure-8 belay devices.

Many climbing gyms now require that all belayers use an assisted-braking device, which rules out ATC-style belay devices. We still recommend this device for its time-tested strengths, but buyers should know that these devices are not accepted everywhere. To put it bluntly, the climbing world is phasing out devices like the ATC-XP, especially for single-pitch cragging.

Ropes measuring 7.7-11 mm can be used with the ATC-XP, and it can handle single- and double-rope rappels with ease. In the affordable and basic manual tube-style belay device category, the ATC-XP is our favorite.

When leading multipitch climbs, you’ll want an assisted-braking belay device that will allow you to belay your follower directly off of an anchor. Of the many like belay devices on the market, the DMM Pivot ($37) is our favorite thanks to a handful of excellent traits and features.

An assisted-braking belay device is in guide mode when it is clipped directly to the anchor and used to belay a following climber. For guide mode to work, the device must have a separate metal loop that can clip directly to the anchor.

On the DMM Pivot, this clip-in point can swivel (or pivot), which is very helpful in certain multipitch scenarios. Ropes measuring 7.5-11 mm work with the Pivot.

As your follower climbs a pitch, they may fall off and want to lower partway back down the pitch and give the troublesome section of climbing another attempt. When using most tube-style belay devices in guide mode, lowering your follower requires a handful of tricky and potentially dangerous steps.

With the Pivot, the swiveling clip-in point allows you to easily change the angle of the device and lower your climber safely. This feature can also be useful in a rescue or emergency.

Other belay devices, like the Petzl GriGri, can also lower a follower with ease. However, the Pivot is a tube-style device that can be used for double-rope repelling. The GriGri can only be used to rappel a single strand. For this reason, the Pivot is especially handy in a multipitch setting.

This highly versatile belay device is a true “quiver of one.” The Giga Jul combines manual tube-style simplicity with assisted braking, top-managed belaying, and double-rope rappelling. Whether you’re at the gym, the crag, or five pitches up on an all-day adventure route, the Giga Jul ($60) will have you covered.

A sliding mechanism on the Giga Jul allows users to switch back and forth between assisted-braking and manual-braking modes. This means that the device can be used for lead belaying with the benefit of assisted braking, but it can also be used for frustration-free rappelling.

This combination of features is especially valuable in a multipitch setting. The Giga Jul eliminates the need to bring an extra tube-style device up a multipitch route to use strictly for rappelling. In Edelrid’s words, “It’s the best of both worlds.”

Steel inserts within the tubes of the Giga Jul resist wear from the rope and increase the lifespan of the device. This dual-material construction allows the device to combine the lightweight quality of aluminum with the abrasion resistance of steel.

Operating the slider of the Giga Jul does take some getting used to, especially when transitioning between belaying a follower from above and belaying a leader via your harness.

The Giga Jul requires more steps to make this transition than the Petzl GriGri. Still, the Giga Jul has the added benefit of double-rope rappelling when the time comes to descend.

Edelrid is known for its innovative climbing gear, and the Giga Jul lives up to this reputation. Thanks to its assisted braking, all climbing gyms will allow you to use this device. The Giga Jul’s versatility is unmatched.