Storytime (And Training Talk) With Climbing Legend Jerry Moffatt

‘Everyone thought I was crazy.’ You were, Jerry, and we love you for it.

In the 1980s, nobody crushed like Jerry Moffatt. The Englishman leaned into the role of the world’s best (and most feral) rock climber like he was made for it.

And maybe he was. Who could forget the sheer force of uber-psych dirtbaggery he and Ben Moon emanated in their prime, in classic documents like THE REAL THING?

There was a method to his madness, too — largely, Moffatt and Moon spearheaded the now-accepted training technique of bouldering in a gym (or cellar, in their case) to train for rock climbing.

A few decades removed from his days of tear-assing all over Europe on sport bikes to terrorize local crags, Moffatt’s an elder statesman.

He can spin a yarn like one, too. Watch the jovial master’s twinkly eyes light up with good memories as he sits down in the gym and revisits his old haunts to wax poetic on his favorite topic: “Cloimbing!”

Runtime: 23:27

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Sam Anderson

Sam Anderson is a staff writer at GearJunkie, and several other All Gear websites.

He has been writing about climbing, cycling, running, wildlife, outdoor policy, the outdoor industry, vehicles, and more for 2 years. Prior to GearJunkie, he owned and operated his own business before freelancing at GearHungry. Based in Austin, Texas, Anderson loves to climb, boulder, road bike, trail run, and frequent local watering holes (of both varieties).

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