Adam Ondra Gets Vulnerable, Trains for the Olympics in ‘Beyond Focus’

Watch Adam Ondra flex in melodramatic slow-motion — and dissect the nuances of the sacrifice that training requires — in ‘Beyond Focus.’

Do you want to watch a shirtless Adam Ondra shred in the gym, in super slow-mo, to a cinema soundtrack with the “melodrama” slider pushed to 11? If so, you’ll love the first 20 seconds of “Beyond Focus.”

If you’re more interested in listening to the best rock climber in the world discuss the mental game of climbing training, you’ll like the rest of it.

Most rock climbers who have ever trained can probably relate to Ondra’s dilemma. An old coach once put it this way to me: “if you’re training, you’re not climbing.” It was a crystalline description of the sacrifice performance climbing demands.

It’s really fun to get in the groove of outdoor rock climbing — you get to travel, socialize, enjoy nature, and even drink beer.

On the other hand, if you want to get strong (like Olympic-level strong), you have to stop climbing and opt instead to lock yourself in the gym.

If you’re training, you’re not climbing. But don’t take it from me — watch “Beyond Focus” and take it from the best in the world.

Runtime: 13 minutes

Adam Ondra climbing
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Sam Anderson

Sam has roamed the American continent to follow adventures, explore natural wonders, and find good stories. After going to college to be a writer, he got distracted (or saved) by rock climbing and spent most of the next decade on the road, supporting himself with trade work. He's had addresses in the Adirondack Mountains, Las Vegas, and somehow Kansas, but his heart belongs in the Texas hill country.

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