With 31 IFSC Climbing World Cup gold medals and Olympic gold, the Slovenian is arguably the most successful competition climber ever. Janja Garnbret can climb real rock, too — onsight, harder than any other woman in the world.
In case you didn’t know, Janja Garnbret is really good at rock climbing. The first women’s sport climbing Olympic gold medalist, she started winning IFSC championships when she was 16. Now, at 22, she has topped the world’s hardest female onsight.
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“Fish Eye” (8c/5.14b) in Oliana, Spain, is a 50m pumpfest. Garnbret styled the route in early November and set the first new women’s onsight benchmark since 2006. Josune Bereziartu was the first woman to onsight 8b+/5.14a; others followed her lead, including Sasha DiGiulian in 2011 and Laura Rogora in 2020.
If that wasn’t good enough, Garnbret promptly turned the trick again the very next day. “American Hustle,” just down the cliff at Oliana, became the world’s second 8c/5.14b female onsight.
Oliana is one of the planet’s most famous sport climbing destinations. Its crown jewel, Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra’s “La Dura Dura,” was the world’s second 9b+/5.15c.
Janja Garnbret: Superlative on Plastic and Rock
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