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Not all knife edges are sharpened equally, but all neglected edges are pretty equally useless. So, our edge obsessives — the sorts who always regrind every factory edge to get them just right — rounded up the best knife sharpeners on the market.

Led by Ian Graber-Stiehl, a professional blade sharpener, each system sharpened a wide range of knives in testing: budget folders, chisels, professional cutlery, high-end EDC steels, axes, machetes, shears, horse clippers, saws — you name it. 

We used the systems here in kitchens, in the field, and at the workshop to see not only what they sharpen best but where they’re best suited. The result: a list of the best sharpening systems, from the powerful Work Sharp Knife & Tool Sharpener MK.2 to the simple Sharp Pebble Whetstone. Check out the top picks below.

Editor’s Note: GearJunkie updated this guide to the best knife sharpeners on July 3, 2025, to dial in selections for a more hobbyist-centric crowd, and added a few new sharpeners in the process. The Wicked Edge Carbon WE40 is a stellar beginner sharpening system, while the Work Sharp Rolling Knife Sharpener offers a unique and easy rolling method for getting cutlery back in shape.

The Best Knife Sharpeners of 2026


Rating Details

Sharpening Speed 9/10
Angle Precision 7/10
Versatility 9/10
Ease of Use 7/10

Specifications

Sharpener Type
Electric belt sharpening system
Angle Range
20 and 25 degrees
Grits
80, 220, 6000
Size
9 x 7 x 6”
Best For
Pocket Knives, Traditional Outdoor Knives, Kitchen Knives, Landscaping & Trail Tools
Skill Level
3 out of 5

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Quick grinding
  • Incredibly versatile
  • Easy to operate
  • Freehand and guided sharpening modes
  • Easily convexes edges

Cons

  • Loud
  • Messy/dusty
  • Requires replacement belts
  • Can overheat edges
Ian Graber-Stiehl

Read Review: If You Can Dull It, This Will Sharpen It: Work Sharp Knife & Tool Sharpener MK.2 Review

What makes the Work Sharp Knife & Tool Sharpener MK.2 ($110) elite is the fact that it is an easy-to-use, complete knife and tool sharpening system. Composed of a knife and tool sharpener, as well as an optional grinding attachment, you won’t find anything else on this list that can do everything this sharpener can do.

Motorized belt sharpening can be a little intimidating. After all, if you’re not paying attention to what you’re doing, you can ruin the heat treat on your blade. Thankfully, the MK.2 has a dual-speed motor and low-tension belts to help limit that from happening. Also, there is no need to worry about bogging the motor down; it’s designed to take your use and abuse. But keep in mind — you should always let the tool do the work.

The sharpener sports an angle guide that allows for 20 or 25-degree sharpening, and is leather-lined to protect your blades. This should cover most of your pocket and kitchen knives, though it is a bit limited. For those needing all the angles, look into an adjustable system like the Wicked Edge WE40 or Work Sharp Precision Adjust.

The MK.2 comes with and uses 3/4″ x 12” belts. In the box, you’ll get one each of Work Sharp’s P80, P220, and 6000 grit belts, which are enough to get even damaged blades back into working order. Work Sharp also offers a huge range of accessory belts to use on the MK.2, meaning you can dial it in for your use.

Over the years, it’s become clear that Work Sharp only produces quality products that are easy to use and durable enough to withstand your most stubborn tasks. The MK.2 is a supreme tool for keeping blades sharp, the best out there today.

Rating Details

Sharpening Speed 6/10
Angle Precision 7/10
Versatility 8/10
Ease of Use 6/10

Specifications

Sharpener Type
Soaking whetstone
Angle Range
Unlimited
Grits
1000, 6000
Size
2.2 x 7" stones
Best For
Regular maintenance
Skill Level
4 out of 5

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Quality, dual-grit stone
  • Silicone insert keeps the stone in place
  • The price is nice
  • Bamboo case stays in place on granite, marble, and rough surfaces

Cons

  • Bamboo case will move on butcher block
  • Takes practice to truly master — not very approachable for beginners
Ian Graber-Stiehl

Whetstones aren’t sexy sharpening solutions, but they are danged reliable. Knifemaker Nick LeFort cut his teeth on stones like the Sharp Pebble 1000/6000 Whetstone ($40), and while he’s got access to sharpeners with far more widgets and gizmos, it’s a simple whetstone like this that he uses when he wants to zone out with his knives.

Simple as simple can be, the 1000/6000 whetstone is a dual-grit aluminum-oxide unit that settles into a bamboo and silicone base to keep it from working its way around your workbench. Aluminum-based stones like this are best soaked in water, and after a 10-minute dip, it’s ready to go.

LeFort says that most folks looking to spruce up their kitchen cutlery will find more utility on the white 6000 grit side, as it’ll hone edges that aren’t dull and return them to that factory pop. The blue 100 grit side, on the other hand, is where the “EDC and outdoor crowd looking to bring their knives back to their original luster will most likely start off.” 

Sharpening on the Sharp Pebble isn’t difficult, but it does take some practice. Working up a good slurry of material aids in the sharpening process, but you’ll need to clear it once it begins to build up. Thankfully, the Sharp Pebble also comes with a 20-degree guide for sharpening, though this won’t cover all angles some knife owners are looking for.

Aluminum-oxide stones like the Sharp Pebble are certainly cheaper than ceramic whetstones like the Suehiro CERAX 1010, and they also won’t have as long of a lifespan. But for someone who doesn’t want to jump up to even a budget angle-guided unit like the Work Sharp Precision Adjust Elite, the $40 it takes to get into the Sharp Pebble 1000/6000 Whetstone may be more palatable — you’ll just need to practice.

Best Beginner Knife Sharpener

Wicked Edge Carbon WE40

Rating Details

Sharpening Speed 7/10
Angle Precision 7/10
Versatility 7/10
Ease of Use 8/10

Specifications

Sharpener Type
Manual, double-sided, clamped, angle-guided
Angle range
13-31 degrees per side
Grits
200, 600 diamond
Size
9.5" x 3.5" x 5"
Best for
Beginner knife sharpeners and enthusiasts
Skill level
2 out of 5

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Easy-to-understand entry point to knife sharpening
  • Affordable Wicked Edge quality
  • Includes practice knife for honing your skills
  • Compact and portable

Cons

  • Included stones may be a bit limited in grit for some
  • Will require your own workstation clamps (unless you purchase the separate aluminum base)
Ian Graber-Stiehl

At-home knife sharpening can be intimidating, but the Wicked Edge Carbon WE40 ($199) makes it an easy transition. This entry-level option from the veteran brand piles on all the knowledge baked into sharpeners like the Generation 4 Pro, but at an accessible price for the rest of us.

For context, a total knife rookie managed to keep his blades sharp with it. The simple clamp system is intuitive, the angle adjustment is easy to dial in, and the stainless steel guide bars move effortlessly to guide amateurs through the motions. Beginners will have no problem.

The base system ships with only one set of sharpening stones — a 200/600 grit diamond option — but this is a good thing. It removes the confusion around the huge number of grits and different compounds available. Got a dull knife? Start with the 200 grit side to get things in order, then switch to the 600 to finish the job. No fancy compounds or procedures here. 

Wicked Edge knows the type who will be drawn to the WE40 and includes a practice knife so you can dial in your skills before committing your nice cutlery. We spent a solid day with this setup before diving into the real deal, and it made all the difference in feeling confident in putting our $100+ knives through it.

Knife sharpening old hands might feel a little restricted by the limited grits that the WE40 ships with, but you can always snag a few extra options, as the stones are all cross-compatible with Wicked Edge’s higher-end sharpeners. For beginners who want to lean more into their bladecraft, the WE40 is a stellar option.

Rating Details

Sharpening Speed 6/10
Angle Precision 6/10
Versatility 7/10
Ease of Use 7/10

Specifications

Sharpener Type
Diamond bench stone
Angle Range
N/A
Grits
Fine/Extra Fine, Coarse/Extra Coarse
Size
2 x 6”
Best For
EDC blades, cutlery, woodworking tools
Skill Level
3 out of 5

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Fast-cutting abrasive
  • Compact
  • Versatile
  • Less care required than oil or whetstones
  • Good for higher-end, high-carbide steels

Cons

  • Can rust if stored wet
  • Grits somewhat coarse for rating
  • Leave a heavy scratch pattern on edge
Ian Graber-Stiehl

DMT’s Dia-Sharp Stones, especially the double-sided 6-inch versions (starting at $55), are the king when it comes to quick, quality, compact, cost-effective freehand sharpening. Two stones, the Extra Coarse/Coarse and the Fine/Extra Fine, especially combined with DMT’s Magna Base Holder, can sharpen anything while taking up all of the space of a 1.5L bottle. 

Like any diamond stone, they do remove material aggressively. Likewise, what DMT considers “Extra-fine” is still a bit coarse for a finishing stone. The company does offer an Extra-Extra-Fine finishing stone, but only single-sided, and not in smaller sizes. 

So, the Dia-Sharps may be overkill for light touch-ups. They also leave a pretty aggressive scratch pattern on edges, need to be dried completely before long-term storage to prevent rust, and are only as capable as your freehand technique is good. 

However, the Dia-Sharps punch well above their weight class, especially for EDC-ers and woodworkers. Modern medium- and high-end EDC blades are typically high in alloy components and harder than the abrasives traditionally used to sharpen blades. Many whetstones need to be soaked before use and leveled every so often. 

These Diamond stones never require leveling or soaking and can quickly remove material from even the hardest modern steels. Since not every company’s “grits” are the same size, DMT’s forthrightness about how many microns a given grit is extremely useful. The stones don’t, however, have a handle like the Smith’s Diamond Combo Sharpener, so you’ll need a flat surface to get your work done.

Simply put, if you need to quickly put a razor’s edge on just about any cutting tool (other than maybe a recurve blade) in just about any steel while carrying little, the DMT Dia-Sharp Stones are a premier pick. Hence, they have been the go-to workplace sharpener for us through years of tending bars where coworkers chipped blades every shift.

Rating Details

Sharpening Speed 7/10
Angle Precision 7/10
Versatility 7/10
Ease of Use 8/10

Specifications

Sharpener Type
Rolling
Angle Range
15, 17, 20 and 25 degrees
Grits
320, 600, and a ceramic hone
Size
2 x 6”
Best For
Sharpening kitchen knives
Skill Level
1 out of 5

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • The overall quality of the build
  • Ease of use
  • The variety of knives it can sharpen
  • Variable angles in a rolling sharpener

Cons

  • Price
  • Could use a more aggressive grit disc to remove more material faster
Ian Graber-Stiehl

The Work Sharp Rolling Knife Sharpener ($150) surprised our resident knife designer, who went into testing thinking that rolling sharpeners were a gimmick. Not true. This sharpener provides a quick and approachable means of getting your knives back in fighting shape and deserves a spot on your kitchen counter.

The setup is simple: attach an abrasive disc to the rolling sharpener, and affix your blade to the weighted block. Then, roll the sharpener along the blade, allowing the abrasive to do the work. Moving through the grits is simple, and tester Nick LeFort was surprised just how quickly he was able to get a solid edge back on his blades.

This sharpener differentiates itself from other rolling options on the market by offering both different grit options, as well as four different angles: 15, 17, 20, and 25. This covers the spread of Santuko knives all the way to chunky tactical blades, and makes this sharpener much more than a one-trick pony. The weighted block sports these four angles on each side, and strong magnets keep your blade firmly in place while sharpening.

The abrasive discs all held up well in our testing, save for the ceramic honing disc, which did show a little wear and tear. Thankfully, you can source replacements from Work Sharp. The price of $150 is a bit on the steep side, but the adaptability of this setup makes it worth it. Other rolling sharpeners like the Tumbler Knife Sharpener don’t offer nearly as many grit or angle options, so the extra spend is warranted.

Rating Details

Sharpening Speed 8/10
Angle Precision 6/10
Versatility 7/10
Ease of Use 8/10

Specifications

Sharpener Type
Handheld diamond field sharpener
Angle Range
N/A
Grits
325/750 grit Coarse/Fine
Size
4 x 2 x 1”
Best For
In the field touch-ups
Skill Level
1 out of 5

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Lightweight
  • Portable
  • Versatile
  • Integrated hook sharpener

Cons

  • No reference angles
  • Finishing grit relatively coarse
Ian Graber-Stiehl

Smith’s Diamond Combo Sharpener ($20) has had a place in our pockets for over 10 years for good reason: It’s simple, and it works. Yes, there are field sharpeners with more bells and whistles. Work Sharp’s Guided Field Sharpener, for example, comes with two diamond plates, multiple ceramic rods, an angle guide, a strop, and a broadhead wrench. It also comes with a higher price tag and more weight. 

There are smaller and lighter field sharpeners, like the glut of pocket pull-through sharpeners all over the market. But rarely do they put on as good of an edge. For a field sharpener, a stowable and streamlined capability is the name of the game. Fittingly, the Smith’s Diamond Combo handle can sheath the diamond plates. This protects the abrasives and your pack alike while providing a slim, packable, weather-resistant profile.

We also found the handle ergonomic, putting distance between your hands and edges while making field sharpening easy. Likewise, the grits of the diamond plates are more than enough to put a working edge on just about any blade. 

The Diamond Combo is exactly what a field sharpener should be: cheap, easy to pack, hard to break, and effective on everything from hunting knives and broadheads to fishing hooks and multitools. We might reach for the Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker a bit more often if we’ve got more downtime in camp, but for pure on-the-go versatility, this sharpener is where it’s at.

Rating Details

Sharpening Speed 7/10
Angle Precision 9/10
Versatility 8/10
Ease of Use 7/10

Specifications

Sharpener Type
Manual, double-sided, clamped, angle-guided
Angle Range
12-28 degrees per side; 12-33 with Micro-Adjust
Grits
100/200, 400/600, 800/1000
Size
7 x 11 x 11.5”
Best For
Professional-level knife sharpening
Skill Level
4 out of 5

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Ease of use
  • Consistency
  • Range of accessories
  • Integrated storage options
  • Build quality

Cons

  • Stock vice only accommodates blades under 5 mm thick
  • Expensive
  • Accessories required for acute and mirror-polished edges
Ian Graber-Stiehl

There is a good reason why the Wicked Edge Gen 4 Pro ($1,000) is at the top of the wishlist of every EDC fanatic and pro sharpener we know. It makes getting incredibly sharp and consistent edges a breeze at a professional pace — with accessories. 

The backbone of the Gen 4 is a double-sided diamond-based abrasive system that allows for easy adjustment of both sides. Simply clamp a blade in, match the angle (made especially easy with the micro-adjustor), or set a new one, and get to grinding with both hands  — for a price. 

The Gen 4’s biggest downside is that its high price is the starting point, not the end. Even without the micro-adjust and storage shelf (which aren’t strictly necessary), the vice’s limited accommodations, the inherent variability of a clamp system, and the quality you’d have to turn out to justify the price make additional accessories necessary. 

Acute, especially asymmetrically ground Japanese chefs’ knives will require a Low-Angle Adapter. Blades over 3/16″ thick will require alternative jaws, which, even then, tap out shy of extremely meaty blades like traditional khukuri. Reprofiling and mirror-polishing blades for discerning customers will require a digital angle finder and a suite of extra stones.

The tradeoff here is simple: For the vast and overwhelming array of blades that people pay to have sharpened, chef’s knives, EDC blades, hunters, filet knives — even that one Christmas gift ceramic santoku that’s been rattling around dull in a drawer for a decade — there isn’t a more consistent, user-friendly system for getting amazing edges. Not to mention … the Gen 4 Pro is just sexy.

If the price of the Gen 4 Pro galls you, you can get a similar style and cheaper sharpener in the KME Precision Deluxe Kit (or even the Work Sharp Precision Adjust Elite), you just give up the better, centrally clamped knife position. The clamp on the Wicked Edge simply works perfectly, which helps to explain the price.

Other Knife Sharpeners That’ll Get the Job Done

Rating Details

Specifications

Sharpener Type
Clamping, manual, angle-guided
Angle Range
15-30 degrees per side
Grits
220, 320, 400, 600, 800 grit diamond, ceramic plate, ceramic rod, compound-loaded strop
Size
11.5 x 4.5 x 7” case
Best For
EDC blades, cutlery under 9”
Skill Level
1 out of 5

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Budget-friendly
  • Takes up little space
  • Easy to operate
  • Rubberized clamp prevents scratching
  • Swiveling clamp
  • Good grit progression

Cons

  • Limited low-angle options
  • Angles not always accurate
  • Struggles with large, thick blades
  • Clamp flexes without support
  • Slow at reprofiling blades
Ian Graber-Stiehl

Work Sharp’s Precision Adjust Elite Kit ($140) is a fantastic option for those focused on bang for their buck, portability, and straightforwardness. Its clamp rotates with ease to sharpen either side of a blade. The stones integrate into a rotating housing, allowing them to stow and swap easily. The Precision Adjust’s angle setting system allows for minute adjustments, making matching the angle of any blade a breeze. 

The Elite Kit expands on a sensible grit progression system capable of quickly taking even extremely dull, high-hardness steels like S90V from dull to plenty sharp and relatively polished. And, at only a half-inch wide, the stones also easily sharpen recurved edges — a tricky blade profile to maintain. 

While it is high in precision, the Adjust Elite is a touch lower in accuracy. Like many clamp-based systems, the actual sharpening angle depends on the blade’s height and can vary significantly from the labeled angle settings. So, reprofiling — regrinding an edge to a different angle — calls for an angle-finder cube (like the one that comes with the Precision’s Big Brother).

We also found that reprofiling with the Precision Adjust is a slow affair. While the diamond stones make sharpening a breeze, their small size and relatively high starting grit aren’t the best for heavy regrinding. For quick tune-ups, we far preferred the belt-driven Work Sharp MK.2.

Our biggest pet peeve was the clamp’s tendency to flex under pressure, changing the sharpening angle. However, this is easily solved with anything wedged between the clamp and the base to prevent flexing. A sharpener with a rotated clamp, like the Wicked Edge Gen 4 Pro, doesn’t suffer from this issue.

Overall, most of our nitpicks were only relevant on the margins: with heavy blades that made the system want to tip or when completely reprofiling super hard steels. For people simply looking to keep their EDCs and cutlery razor sharp with a system that is easy to use, quick to stow, and won’t break the bank, the Precision Adjust Elite Kit is a fantastically conscientious pick.

Rating Details

Specifications

Sharpener Type
Manual angle-guided system
Angle Range
10-27 degrees per side
Grits
120, 220, 400, 600, 1000, and 1200 ceramic hone
Size
1 x 6” stones
Best For
Large knives and mirror-polished edges
Skill Level
3 out of 5

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Extensive angle range
  • Accurate angle settings
  • Quality polishing stones
  • Good for large blades
  • Numerous accessories

Cons

  • Not the most stable base
  • Easy to scratch blades
  • Long guide arms makes storage difficult
  • Less consistent with certain blade grinds
Ian Graber-Stiehl

Of all the systems we’ve tested, none are as good at sharpening as consistently or to as high a finish — right out of the box — as the Edge Pro Apex 4 Kit ($285). Unlike most of the other manual systems here, the Apex isn’t a clamp-based design — which, without a careful hand, changes the sharpening angle slightly as you run along the curve of blades.

Instead, the Apex allows you to set and slide the blade along a table. This means that the sharpening angle doesn’t change with the height of the blade either — usually eliminating the need for an angle measurer. On the downside, it can be more difficult to account for the angle at which full flat-ground blades, or those with only small flat portions, rest on the table. 

The Edge Pro also offers some of the largest and finest grit stones of any angle-guided system on the market. This makes it, for our money, the easiest system for those obsessed with fine, mirror-polished edges. The tradeoff is that even the coarsest of the stock stones reprofile hard steels slowly, and themselves wear relatively quickly. 

The guide arm also doesn’t have any micro-adjustment for angle-setting, and the suction cup base doesn’t like to adhere to every surface — making the Apex finicky to set up without some accessories like the bench mount. Without some prep, it’s easy to scratch up the finish of knives as you draw them along the table, since steel particulates tend to collect there. 

However, the Edge Pro Apex 4 Kit is an OG. Offering arguably more in-house and aftermarket accessories and stones than any platform we’ve tested, the Apex can be expanded into one of the most economical pro-grade manual knife sharpeners on the market — some experience, time, and assembly required.

Rating Details

Specifications

Sharpener Type
Ceramic soaking whetstone
Angle Range
N/A
Grits
1000
Size
3 x 8.25”
Best For
Everything — with a steady hand
Skill Level
4 out of 5

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Quick cutting
  • Larger than average
  • Slow to load with swarf
  • High feedback
  • Higher than average polish

Cons

  • Requires pre-sharpening soak
  • Chips easily
Ian Graber-Stiehl

There are far faster and more consistent overengineered options in 2024, but few compare to the streamlined versatility of a good whetstone. A good freehand sharpening session is one of the most spiritual experiences a knife obsessive can have — second only to your significant other finding the bill for the last knife you bought. And few whetstones provide a better quality experience than the cost-conscious Suehiro CERAX 1010 ($33).

Much of freehand sharpening comes down to feedback and hardness. Whetstones with more softly bonded particulates typically form an abrasive slurry more quickly but require longer soaking times before use. Harder stones offer better feedback and shorter soak times but clog with swarf more quickly. 

Suehiro consistently manages to hit a sweet spot, with its CERAX 1010 being a standout. It wears somewhat quickly, but cuts fast for a medium-grit stone, offers tons of feedback on edge orientation, and doesn’t clog with swarf easily. 

The CERAX 1010 is slow for badly damaged edges and ultra-hard high-carbide steels, but for simply livening up dull edges, it’s so much of a dream to work with that we genuinely lament that our edges rarely get dull enough to break it out. To be sure, there’s a learning curve to sharpening with a whetstone, which is why we recommend a guided system for most folks. But for those willing to slow down, it’s perfect.

For a complete freehand sharpening system, the Suehiro 5/6-Piece Sharpening Kit offered by Burrfection bundles two of our favorite whetstones, the CERAX 1010 and Rika 5000, into one fantastic package.

Rating Details

Sharpening Speed 6/10
Angle Acuracy 6/10
Versatility 7/10
Ease of Use 7/10

Specifications

Sharpener Type
Angled rod sharpening
Angle Range
15 or 20 degrees per side
Grits
Medium/Fine combo
Size
1.5 x 8 x 3” packed
Best For
Quick touchups and micro-beveling
Skill Level
2 out of 5

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Extensive angle range
  • Accurate angle settings
  • Quality polishing stones
  • Good for large blades
  • Numerous accessories

Cons

  • Not the most stable base
  • Easy to scratch blades
  • Long guide arms makes storage difficult
  • Less consistent with certain blade grinds
Ian Graber-Stiehl

The Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker ($127) is the touch-up king. It is simplicity at its finest, with a pair of medium and fine stones that can be set at 15 or 20 degrees per side, a horizontal mounting option for shallower angles, and the ability to stow the entire system into itself. 

Aside from quick touch-ups, there is another place where the Sharpmaker shines the most: micro beveling. This practice of taking a few swipes at a slightly steeper angle than the edge was sharpened is a great way to knock the burr off an edge and bring it back to hair-popping sharp. 

A precision system, this is not. If you’re looking to put a perfect mirror polish on an edge or restore a chipped blade, the Sharpmaker isn’t the move. Reprofiling an edge with the Sharpmaker goes beyond an exercise in patience. Like the pocketable Smith’s Diamond Combination Sharpener, the Sharpmaker is better suited to quick and dirty sharpening in between big jobs.

We tend to reach for our Smith’s field sharpener a bit more (due to the lower fiddle factor compared to the 7-piece Sharpmaker), but there’s much more versatility in this kit — something that makes more sense as a basecamp sharpener. With the optional diamond stones, we found it quick and easy to touch up even relatively dull, high-carbide steels like S90V and CPM-20CV without having to break out the big toys and whetstones.

Rating Details

Specifications

Sharpener Type
Electric, water-cooled grinder/rotary strop
Angle Range
Nearly all of them
Grits
220 and leather honing wheel
Size
11 x 10.5 x 10.5”
Best For
Pro-grade sharpening
Skill Level
5 out of 5

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Unmatched versatility
  • Fast, professional sharpening and reprofiling
  • Wide angle range
  • Quiet and clean

Cons

  • Large
  • Expensive
  • Relatively high skill level needed
  • Not best for convex edges
Ian Graber-Stiehl

You’d be hard-pressed to find a cutting tool that the Tormek T-4 Bushcraft ($590) can’t put a professional-quality edge on. Throughout our testing, the only edge it couldn’t tackle were saws, hair clippers, and the meaty convexed recurves of khukuris. For everything else, the T-4 is a premier pick.

At its core, the T-4 Bushcraft is a rotary, water-cooled whetstone grinder/leather strop combo with jigs for knives and axes alike, which can match or regrind nearly any edge, to nearly any angle: chisels, pocketknives, cutlery, woodturning equipment, pizza cutters, even tungsten carbide, and ceramic blades. Most recently, we used the T-4 while on deployment with a wildland fire crew in Nevada to keep their pulaskis shaving sharp.

The T-4 easily hangs with our heavy hitters. With the right setup, it can grind edges just as consistent and sharp as the Wicked Edge Gen 4 in less time, and with more range. It loses out on size, utility for thick convexed tools like axes, and (without diamond stones) speed against the Work Sharp Ken Onion MK.2 — but is far quieter, cleaner, more precise, and can’t overheat an edge. 

The Tormek T-4 has a pro-quality jig and a stone for almost every type of tool. The downsides: It’s by far the most complicated system to set up and use here, and those accessories add up. After extra stones and jigs, it’s not hard for the T-4 system to blow past the Gen 4’s high price tag.

The tradeoff? The ability to get incredible results on almost any type of blade. So much so that our sharpening guru Ian Graber-Steihl said that if he could only have one guided system for sharpening everything, both clients’ tools and his own alike, it’d be the T-4. After all, if a Tormek can’t sharpen it, you’d probably have to do it by hand anyway. 

Rating Details

Specifications

Sharpener Type
Compressed leather strop
Angle Range
N/A
Grits
Buffalo hide
Size
10 x 0.75 x 2.75” packed
Best For
Regular maintenance
Skill Level
1 out of 5

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Gorgeous
  • Naturally abrasive
  • Easily loads with compounds
  • Perfectly flat
  • Integrated base

Cons

  • Pricey for a strop
  • Large for a strop
Ian Graber-Stiehl

Hot take: As vital as stones are, a good strop is vital for maintaining a blade. We have gone months keeping our favorite chef’s knife shaving sharp sans stones — and we’ve found that few strops maintain an edge with the style, quality, and sharpness of Burrfection’s Rolled Buffalo Strop ($63).

Buffalo hide naturally tends to contain fewer silicate abrasives than some high-end horsehair hides. However, compression concentrates these abrasives on the surface. This, combined with the toughness of Buffalo hide and how easy it is to load with stropping compounds, make Burrfection’s compressed buffalo strop our unequivocal favorite. 

It comes perfectly flat with rubberized feet to prevent slipping. Burrfection offers three base options: polycarbonate (our waterproof, budget-conscious favorite), tempered glass, and Hinoki wood. Every one of them makes for a gorgeous and utilitarian addition to any kitchen counter — exactly where we keep ours, at the ready.

Knife Sharpeners Comparison Chart

Knife SharpenerPriceTypeAngle RangeBest ForSkill Level
Work Sharp Knife & Tool Sharpener MK.2$110Electric belt sharpening system20 and 25 degreesPocket Knives, Traditional Outdoor Knives, Kitchen Knives, Landscaping & Trail Tools3/5
Sharp Pebble 1000/6000 Whetstone $40Soaking whetstoneN/ARegular maintenance3/5
Wicked Edge Carbon – WE40$199Manual, double-sided, clamped, angle-guided13-31 degrees per sideBeginner knife sharpeners and enthusiasts2/5
DMT 6″ Double Sided Dia-Sharp Diamond Stone
$55Diamond bench stoneN/AEDC blades, cutlery, woodworking tools3/5
Work Sharp Rolling Knife Sharpener$150Rolling15, 17, 20 and 25 degreesSharpening kitchen knives15, 17, 20, and 25 degrees
Smith’s Diamond Combination Sharpener
$20Handheld diamond field sharpenerN/AIn the field touch-ups1/5
Wicked Edge Generation 4 Pro
$1,000Manual, double-sided, clamped, angle-guided12-28 degrees per side; 12-33 with Micro-AdjustProfessional-level knife sharpening4/5
Work Sharp Precision Adjust Elite$140Clamping, manual, angle-guided15-30 degrees per sideEDC blades, cutlery under 9”1/5
Edge Pro Apex 4 Kit
$285Manual angle-guided system10-27 degrees per sideLarge knives and mirror-polished edges3/5
Suehiro CERAX 1010
$33Ceramic soaking whetstoneN/AEverything — with a steady hand4/5
Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker
$127Angled rod sharpening15 or 20 degrees per sideQuick touchups and micro-beveling2/5
Tormek T-4 Bushcraft$590Electric, water-cooled grinder/rotary stropNearly all of themPro-grade sharpening5/5
Burrfection Rolled Buffalo Premium Leather Strop
$63Compressed leather stropN/ARegular maintenance1/5
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the author sharpening a benchmade kitchen knife on a countertop tormek electric sharpener
A sharp knife is a safe knife, and keeping your knives sharp can be as much an art as it is a science; (photo/Ian Graber-Stiehl)

How We Tested the Best Knife Sharpeners

Not every blade is a knife, nor is every sharpening job simple. On a long enough timeline, every blade gets chewed up, chipped, and spit out. We have used many of these systems for years, but newcomers and longstanding favorites were all put through a diverse wringer. 

The most consistent backbone of our head-to-head tests was Benchmade’s Station and Table Knives, whose edges we dragged (with a heavy heart) along bricks until they were chipped, dull, and damaged. The CPM-154 steel, edge geometry, and the latter’s partial serrations made them an excellent analog for how each sharpener would handle heavy restoration and reprofiling of a broad spectrum of steels. 

We also tested tool-oriented systems like the T-4 and Work Sharp MK.2 by reprofiling axes, machetes, and khukuris. Systems capable of sharpening saw teeth were put to task by touching up folding saws. Ultimately, every testee was thrown up against a broad array of different tools, edge geometries, and degrees of dullness. 

a trio of guided angle sharpeners on a benchtop being used to sharpen various pocket knives
A variety of knife shapes and steel types were tested on each sharpener to prove their worth; (photo/Ian Graber-Stiehl)

Our Testing Process

To get a good idea of how various sharpening systems performed in the real world, we tested each system against steels in three brackets. To approximate the maintenance of softer, lower-carbide steels often used in bushcraft blades, axes, budget EDC blades, and mid-range cutlery, we used each system to sharpen steels like 1050, 1095, 14C28N, and AUS10. 

The biggest range of testing was with the medium-high carbide content steels common to mid-to-high-end cutlery, fixed blades, and folders like S35VN, CPM-154, and M4. Lastly, to see how well each system held up to the hardest high-end EDC blades, we also used each sharpener with stubborn steels like S90V and S110V. A few diamond-based systems were also tested against ceramic knives.

Our Expert Testers

Our lead tester, Ian Graber-Stiehl, is an edge obsessive. He’s a “knife guy” through and through, who definitely doesn’t have a problem and can quit collecting anytime he wants. As a former bartender, cook, and hobbyist bladesmith, he’s lectured many coworkers about metallurgy and nearly strangled more than a few for chipping his santoku knife by tossing it in the sink. 

Moreover, he’s professionally sharpened blades for commercial kitchens, antique axe and sword collectors, sushi chefs, home cooks, hairdressers, horse trainers, woodworkers, and more — and never met a factory edge he didn’t completely reprofile within weeks.

Our testing team is also graced with Nick LeFort, a knife industry old hand who has been writing about knives for 10 years and is part-owner of Ragged Mountain Knife Works. LeFort also extensively tests knives, hatchets, and multitools for GearJunkie, so you know he’s wearing knives out enough to need a good sharpener or three.

Buyer’s Guide: How to Choose a Knife Sharpener

Sharpening Science

  • the author using a guided angle style sharpener to touch up an EDC blade, surrounded by different sharpening stones
  • the work sharp precision adjust sharpener with a pocket knife clamped in its jaws
  • an angle gauge on a work sharp sharpener reads out 23.25 degrees while sharpening a small blade

There are many approaches to sharpening, but the principles are all the same. How coarse a grit you should start at depends. (Pro tip: Different companies and types of abrasives have different grit sizes, but if a company offers the size of the abrasive particles in its stones in microns, this is a universal unit.)

The more material you need to remove, the coarser you should start. For simple sharpening, coloring in the edge of a blade with a black marker makes it easy to ensure you’re matching the existing edge angle. 

As you grind one side of a blade, you will form a burr: a thin, wiry piece of steel at the edge that folds over to the other side. A burr, especially with coarse stones, is easy to feel with your fingers or even see with the naked eye.

Form a burr on one side, then sharpen the other side until you form a burr in the other direction. Then move up in grit and repeat, sharpening each side until you form a burr and replacing the scratch pattern of the previous stone with the current, finer stone. 

After stopping at your desired grit, all that’s left is to break off that burr to reveal a fresh edge. This can be done in several ways: with hones, strops, or with a stone. Simply run the blade backward (think: the opposite direction of how you’d cut) at a slightly steeper angle on alternating sides until you break the burr off. Deburring, realigning warped edges, and light touch-ups are where hones and strops truly excel.

Different Strokes for Different Steels

the author sharpening a splitting axe in a wood yard with a tormek electric sharpener
A splitting profile on an axe head will require around an 18-degree bevel and a 25-degree micro bevel; (photo/Ian Graber-Stiehl)

Most steels tend to be relatively soft and easy to resharpen on almost any kind of stone, oil, and water. With these sorts of steels, the biggest hurdles are often repairing damaged edges, especially for thick blades like axes, hatchets, bushcraft knives, and khukuris. 

Thick blade stock means sharpening requires removing more material. So, reprofiling an edge and repairing large chips can still be a slow affair. 

High-end EDC knives tend to trend toward steels that are chock-full of carbides, which are harder than the abrasives in traditional whetstones and oil stones. This allows them to hold an edge for ages. However, this can make sharpening (especially reprofiling) these steels an exercise in tedium.

As a general rule, if the name of the steel in a blade starts with “CPM” or “ZDP” — doing the bulk of your sharpening with either a diamond abrasive or powered grinder is a good way to make life easier. We recommend reading up on the specific steel your blades are made from, as it will pay off during sharpening.

Types of Sharpeners

a selection of different knife sharpeners on a desk, along with different blade styles that might be sharpened on them
The right tool for the job — consider exactly what you’ll be sharpening before choosing a knife sharpener; (photo/Ian Graber-Stiehl)

Ultimately, the best sharpener for you is determined by a mix of what you’re sharpening, how often, where you work, your skills, and budget. 

A home cook on a budget needs a different sharpener than a professional sharpening ultra-hard steels, for example.

Even so, what’s more important isn’t the method. It’s the edge at the end. After all, an edge that cuts reliably is less likely to cut you.

Bench Stones

a set of hands pass a large knife across a ceramic whetstone, guiding the angle as it passes
Bench stones such as the Suehiro CERAX 1010 put a mirror finish on most blades; (photo/Ian Graber-Stiehl)

There are many types of sharpening stones, but they traditionally come in two broad categories: oil and whetstones. The abrasives in these stones — usually novaculite, silicon carbide, or aluminum oxide — can overlap quite a bit. The distinction is in how the abrasive particles are bound together, how you use them, and how fast they cut.

The abrasives in oil (or Arkansas) stones are bound tightly into a hard stone. This means they wear slowly and don’t need much maintenance. They’re also fantastic for polishing. 

However, a stone’s wear exposes fresh abrasives. So, less wear makes for slower sharpening, especially with very hard steels. Oil stones also clog more easily with steel particles or “swarf.” Fortunately, when an oil stone gets really clogged and discolored, a few minutes of warm, soapy water and a scrubby pad will clean it right up.

the author using a leather strop to maintain a blade edge on a tabletop
Leather strops are excellent for edge maintenance in between sharpening; (photo/Ian Graber-Stiehl)

The abrasive particles in whetstones like the Suehiro CERAX 1010 or Sharp Pebble 1000/6000 are bound more loosely. This means the stones themselves wear more quickly and form an abrasive slurry. This makes for faster sharpening. However, most whetstones must be soaked in water before use and leveled more often than oil stones to stay flat, typically with either a diamond plate or a leveling stone. 

Plates embedded with diamond or cubic boron nitride (CBN) are less traditional but incredibly fast. Boasting, respectively, the world’s first or second hardest abrasives, plates like the DMT Dia-Sharp Diamond Stone sharpen quickly, require minimal maintenance, and stay perfectly flat. 

On the downside, diamond and CBN bench stones are often expensive, provide less feedback than traditional stones, and can be heavy-handed for lighter sharpening, removing more material than needed and leaving heavy scratches on the edge.

Manual Angle-Guided Sharpeners

three different manual angle-guided sharpeners on a desk top, with the author sharpening a blade in a wicked edge sharpener
Manual angle-guided sharpeners are the go-to for many hobbyists and professionals; (photo/Ian Graber-Stiehl)

These incorporate any of the above abrasives into a system that secures the blade, allows you to dial in the angle, and uses a guide arm that holds a stone to sharpen at a consistent angle. 

There are broadly two types of manual angle-guided systems. Clamp-based ones like the Wicked Edge, and Work Sharp Precision Adjust Elite secure a blade in a clamp that can rotate to hit both sides of a blade. This makes them simple and easy to use. 

However, the actual sharpening angle of these designs depends heavily on how far the edge protrudes from the clamp. Likewise, the point of contact, and thus the sharpening angle, will change on heavily curved parts of a blade. So, for precision obsessives, an angle-measuring cube of some type may be necessary.

Table systems, like the Edge Pro, require holding a blade on an integrated table with the edge hanging off. Because the blade’s position can be manipulated, even with long and heavily curved blades, it’s much easier to keep a consistent angle. 

On the downside, these systems are a bit more involved to operate. You also need to account for the angle at which blades with no flat sides will rest — still making an angle cube a good idea. Swarf can also easily get on the table, scratching a blade’s finish as it’s drawn along. 

Electric Sharpeners

the author wears a mask as he sharpens a khukuri on a work sharp mk.2 sharpener in a wood yard
Belt systems like the Work Sharp Elite Knife Sharpening Solution make quick work of sharpening large blades; (photo/Ian Graber-Stiehl)

There’s no shortage of electric sharpeners. However, the best of them generally fall into two categories: belt systems and grinding stones. 

Belt sharpeners are the quick-grinding kings, but speed comes with costs. They’re noisy. Consumable belts are a secondary cost. And even with belt sharpeners marketed for kitchen use, we at GearJunkie recommend using a face mask to keep from inhaling steel dust if you’re grinding at low grits or for more than a few minutes at a time indoors.

Systems like the Work Sharp MK.2 scale down the power and speed of a grinder. With more slack, the chances of the belt overheating a blade are lower, though that slack means that you’ll get a slightly more convex edge. Adjustable angle guides make sharpening more precise and easier. That said, the dust and noise remain. 

On the other end of the scale are powered grindstones. Although there are some systems like the Tormek T-1, which are meant to be used dry, the majority of grinding systems meant to be used for sharpening are water-cooled, like the Tormek T-4. 

These are the behemoths of the list and easily the most complex systems. Their grinding wheel — either a whetstone, CBN, or diamond-embedded wheel — rotates through a water trough. They remove material incredibly fast. Running at low speed, they make little noise. With the stones constantly covered in a film of water, you’ll never overheat the blade, and the swarf collects neatly in the trough. 

Home Kitchen Sharpeners

a tormek electric sharpener on a kitchen countertop, with the author sharpening a benchmade kitchen knife on it
Keeping kitchen cutlery sharp isn’t just for professional chefs, and regular upkeep makes for quick food prep; (photo/Ian Graber-Stiehl)

Keeping your kitchen cutlery sharp is a simple task, and kitchen knife sharpeners are the style that most will encounter in daily life. These can range from simple leather strops to keep a blade honed to electric pull-through styles that do the work for you.

Kitchen knives have much less variability in bevel angles and profiles, meaning that sharpening them can be less hands-on. The blade steel of kitchen knives also tends to be softer, meaning that a single grit can be used to take your knife from dull to slicing sharp again.

Pull-through style kitchen sharpeners are the easiest out there, and often only a few passes through one will get you back up and running. These sharpeners aren’t as precise, however, so if you’ve been gifted a nice Santoku knife, it’s better to use a guided electric sharpener, or, better yet, learn to use one of the manual angle-guided units we’ve highlighted.

Electric sharpeners can quickly restore an entire knife block to shape, and countertop units require only passing the blade through a few times. These units won’t impress knife hobbyists, but are the better tool for those simply interested in getting lunch prepared.

We believe that rolling style sharpeners like the Work Sharp Rolling Knife Sharpener are a solid in-between for enthusiasts and the simply hungry. This sharpener is dead simple to use, but allows for varying angles and sharpening grits to be used.

a top-down image of a chef knife in a guided-angle manual style sharpener
The softer steel of most chefs’ knives makes them easy to sharpen quickly; (photo/Sean McCoy)

Price & Value

one of the authors passes a kitchen knife across the sharp pebble whetstone in a kitchen
A solid whetstone like the Sharp Pebble 1000/6000 can be a cheap entry into knife sharpening if you’re willing to learn the craft; (photo/Nick LeFort)

Most sharpeners tend to break down pretty neatly into a few different price brackets. On the ultra-budget end of the scale are the DIY solutions that run a few bucks: sandpaper clamped to a mousepad or a homemade strop of leather glued to a 2×4. Then you’ve also got your fully electric countertop rotary sharpeners, which can command north of $500. Consider what you’ll be sharpening most, and how nice of a polish you want to put on your blades.

Budget

The $15-35 range is where you typically find touch-up tools like quality strops, hones, and pull-through sharpeners. The Smith’s Diamond Combination Sharpener ($20) is a great field tool, but it won’t do much more than tune up an edge.

Bench stones, especially when comparing oil, whet, and diamond stones, can range quite a bit. However, the vast majority fall into the $30-100 range. For home and hobbyist sharpeners, stones like the Suehiro CERAX 1010 ($33), Sharp Pebble 1000/6000 ($40), and DMT Dia-Sharp ($55) will offer the greatest versatility and bang for your buck of any offering.

Mid-Tier

From $140 to $350 is where most precision sharpeners fall: angle-guided system kits (most manual clamp or table-centric systems, and some powered). These typically come with a suite of different grit abrasives. The manufacturing companies also typically offer numerous optional attachments for different types of blades. 

Equipment in this range is typically much faster and more precise than freehand sharpening. The Work Sharp MK.2 ($300) belt sanding set-up is a dream to use and super versatile. With experience and accessories, these systems can be expanded into nearly pro-grade kits.

Premium

At the $400-1,500 end of the scale, we get into pro-grade systems that are capable of precision, versatility, and exceptional speed. Gear like the Wicked Edge Gen 4 Pro, the Tormek T-4 (and its bigger brother, the T-8), or full-on belt grinders can speedily regrind dozens of blades in a day.

However, the expense is hard to justify for non-pros — be they professionals at sharpening or in fields that involve working with a lot of sharp tools, such as trail builders, chefs, woodworkers, landscapers, and more.

a smaller knife clamped in the jaws of a wicked edge knife sharpener on a desk
Wicked Edge sharpeners command big bucks, but the pure ability you get is undeniable; (photo/Sean McCoy)

Frequently Asked Questions

What is one of the best knife sharpeners?

What’s best is heavily situational. For our pick, the Work Sharp MK.2 is a versatility-minded tool that can handle almost everything you throw at it, with a modicum of precaution. 

Otherwise, for simple, cost-wise versatility, little can beat a good whetstone like the Suehiro CERAX 1010 or Sharp Pebble 1000/6000.

What do professionals use to sharpen knives?

Professionals usually have a number of pieces of equipment that excel at different things. However, they largely fall into three categories:

Manual, angle-guided systems like the Wicked Edge Gen 4 Pro are often used to achieve precision, mirror-polished edges, especially on smaller blades.

For heavier sharpening water-cooled grinding wheel systems like the Tormek T-4 and T-8, and belt grinders (bladesmithing grinders at the extreme end and systems like the Work Sharp Elite Knife Sharpening Solution for smaller jobs) are common choices. 

Lastly, good, old-fashioned whetstones still have their place, especially for extremely acute or asymmetric edges, such as those found on Japanese chef’s knives. 

What really makes a professional job is understanding what type of edge a given blade requires, and how to use the tools available to get it done.

Are pull-through sharpeners bad for knives?

Pull-through sharpeners that use a carbide blade to sharpen both sides of a knife at the same time can damage edges very easily. Electric pull-through systems that sharpen one side at a time with a belt or grinding wheel, on the other hand, such as the Work Sharp MK.2 or Tormek T-1, can be fantastic.

Can you sharpen a knife too often?

Sharpening often won’t damage an edge. However, sharpening inherently requires removing material. Doing so too often and with too heavy a hand will eventually grind the edge of a blade higher and higher up, towards the thicker spine of the blade. This leaves it thicker and less slicy behind the edge.

An easy workaround is to regularly touch up a blade with a ceramic hone or a strop loaded with compound. Regular maintenance with light-handed tools can make it so that a blade rarely has to touch anything beyond relatively fine stones.

What happens if you never sharpen a knife?

In all likelihood, you cut yourself. A dull blade doesn’t just make a task harder, it makes it more dangerous. Not to mention, knowing how to sharpen a blade is a timeless skill.

Ian Graber-Stiehl