It happens to the best of us sometimes. You accidentally leave your headlights on, your battery loses its charge, and you need to jumpstart your vehicle with jumper cables. Or you have a vehicle battery older than 4 years, and it’s not up to the task of holding a charge. Or, you live in a really cold place and don’t drive your vehicle enough to recharge the battery. The variables all stack up. Either way, you should carry a good set of jumper cables to safely jumpstart your car.
These cables enable you to connect your vehicle’s battery to another power source — typically another vehicle’s battery — to give it an instant power boost. By transferring electrical energy from the working battery to the dead one, jumper cables allow you to start your car and carry on with your journey without delay.
Some sets are heavy-duty, have long 20-foot cables, and have a 2-gauge wire like the VIKING 20 ft. 2 Gauge Super Heavy Duty Jumper Cables, which can be a great choice for bigger, more powerful vehicles and dynamic situations or terrain when you need to reach under the hood. Other choices — at a quarter of the price — are more basic, like the 12-foot-long PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE 10 Gauge Jumper Cables, which are suitable to pair with small to midsize cars and trucks.
To learn more about jumper cables and a more in-depth analysis of how they can vary, check out our Buyer’s Guide or jump to the Price & Value summary. Still weighing your options? Consult our Comparison Chart to see how these cables stack up. Otherwise, take a look at our awarded goods for 2024.
Editor’s Note: We updated our Jumper Cables buyer’s guide on October 30, 2024, to include Price & Value and How We Tested sections.
The Best Jumper Cables of 2025
- Best Overall Jumper Cables: VIKING 20 ft. 2 Gauge Super Heavy Duty Jumper Cables
- Best Budget Jumper Cables: PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE 12 ft. 10 Gauge Jumper Cables
- Best Premium Jumper Cables: Diehard Advanced Power Booster Cable 71303
- Best Practical Choice Jumper Cables: Energizer 6 Gauge Jumper Cables
- Best Jumper Cables for Unplanned Emergencies: ABN Jumper Cables, 25 ft, 2 Gauge, 600 Amp
Best Overall Jumper Cables
- Size: 2 gauge
- Amp rating: 420 A
- Length: 20 ft.
- Carrying bag included: Yes, a case
Pros
- Commercial-grade suitable for cars, trucks, and marine vehicles
- Tangle-free flexibility in cold and warm weather
- PVC jacket water-, oil-, and chemical-resistant
Cons
- Big and bulky
- Size: 10 gauge
- Amp rating: 150 amps
- Length: 12 ft.
- Carrying bag included: Yes
Pros
- Copper-coated aluminum cable and copper-coated steel clamps
- Flexible and easy to store and tuck away
- Use Harbor Freight coupons for more savings
Cons
- Capacity suitable primarily for small to midsize cars, trucks, and crossovers
- Only 12 feet of reach
- Low-quality insulation used on clamps
- Size: 6 gauge
- Amp rating: N/A
- Length: 16 ft.
- Carrying bag included: yes
Pros
- Strong alligator clamps with copper-coated teeth
- Copper-clad aluminum cables
- A protective, thick vinyl wire jacket stays flexible at extreme cold temperatures
- Available in different gauges and lengths
Cons
- 6 gauge is not ideal for large engines
- The thin vinyl carrying case will not last too many years
- Size: 2 gauge
- Amp rating: 600A
- Length: 25 ft.
- Carrying bag included: No
Pros
- Commercial grade suitable for cars, trucks, and marine vehicles
- Tangle-free flexibility in cold and warm weather
- PVC jacket oil- and chemical-resistant
Cons
- The clamp is not fully insulated, which may be a shock and short-circuit hazard
- Big and bulky
Best of the Rest
- Size: 4 gauge
- Amp rating: N/A
- Length: 16 ft.
- Carrying bag included: Yes, a hard case
Pros
- Suitable for all cars and trucks
- Strong solid copper parrot clamps
- Tangle-free design
- Cold-weather flexibility
Cons
- Clamps have limited grip and opening width
- The storage case is too small
Jumper Cables Comparison Chart
Jumper Cable | Price | Size | Amp rating | Length | Carrying bag included |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
VIKING 20 ft. 2 Gauge Super Heavy Duty Jumper Cables | $40 | 2 gauge | 420 amps | 20 ft. | Yes, a case |
PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE 12 ft. 10 Gauge Jumper Cables | $10 | 10 gauge | 150 amps | 12 ft. | Yes |
Diehard Advanced Power Booster Cable 71303 | $42 | 6 gauge | 225 amps | 16 ft. | No |
Energizer 6 Gauge Jumper Cables | $20 | 6 gauge | NA | 16 ft. | Yes |
ABN Jumper Cables, 25 ft, 2 Gauge, 600 Amp | $39 | 2 gauge | 600 amps | 25 ft. | No |
Goodyear 4 Gauge 16 feet | $39 | 4 gauge | NA | 16 ft. | Yes, a hard case |
How We Tested Jumper Cables
Our Expert Testers
Our Testing Grounds
Our Testing Process

Buyers Guide: How to Choose the Best Jumper Cables
Wire Diameter

Terminal Clamps

Cable Length

Wire Composition

Value of Jumper Cables

How to Safely Jumpstart Vehicles
- Position the two vehicles close enough — but not touching each other — so that the jumper cables reach from the donor battery to the one that needs help.
- Look at the battery and identify the positive and negative terminal posts. The positive side typically has a red cable and a “+” symbol. The negative side has a black cable attached and is marked with a “-” symbol.
- Correctly hooking up the cables will ensure a safe and steady current flow from the donor car to the weak or dead battery.
- The jumper cables have four clamps — two at each end. Red clamps attach to the positive terminal, and black clamps attach to the negative post or ground point. Attach the red clamp of one end of the jumper cable to the dead battery’s positive terminal. Leave the black clamp unattached for now.
- Attach the red clamp to the positive terminal at the good battery, and then connect the black clamp to the negative post.
- Return to the vehicle that needs a boost and connect the black clamp to a bare metal, solid ground point in the engine bay, such as a metal bracket attached to the engine block away from a fuel line or an unpainted strut tower bolt. Using a ground point instead of the negative battery post avoids potentially dangerous sparks.
- Start the vehicle with the good battery and let it run for about 2 minutes to charge the dead or weak battery.
- Start the car with the dead battery and allow it to run for approximately 2 minutes to allow it to recharge.
- Disconnect cables in reverse order, starting with the negative cable clamped to bare metal in the engine bay. Do not let the clamps touch metal to avoid an accidental spark or damage to the vehicle’s electrical system.
- Drive the restarted vehicle for 20-30 minutes so it can recover.

When to Replace Your Jumper Cables
Price & Value
Budget
Mid-Tier
Premium

Frequently Asked Questions
Jumper cables, also known as booster cables or jump leads, are crucial when your car’s battery dies or drains. Our favorite options include the VIKING 20 ft. 2 Gauge Super Heavy Duty Jumper Cables and Goodyear 4 Gauge 16-foot booster cables.
First, attach the red clamp on the jumper cable to the positive side of the working battery. Second, connect the red clamp on the other end to the positive terminal on the dead or tired battery. Third, clamp the black cable to the negative side of the working battery. Finally, clip the last black clamp to a metal part in the engine bay. Do not connect the negative side of the cable to the dead battery.

Jumper cables come in different gauges (cable diameter) ranging from 1 to 12. The gauge of the cable indicates the amount of power it can handle, with lower numbers indicating higher power capacity. For most standard vehicles, 4- to 6-gauge jumper cables are sufficient. However, you should use 2-gauge cables for optimal performance if you have a larger vehicle like a diesel truck. Smaller vehicles can typically use 8- to 10-gauge jumper cables.
Use a portable jumpstarter if the donor vehicle isn’t available to jumpstart the dead battery.
Sometimes, jumper cables and a boost from another vehicle aren’t enough to get your car going again. There are several reasons why you’re unable to jumpstart a car. Here are things you can check if a service technician isn’t nearby:
- Inspect cables to the battery to ensure they are secure and not covered with corrosion.
- Clean any corrosion off of the posts or terminals.
- If you hear a clicking noise when turning on the ignition, it may indicate a broken starter.
- The battery is done and may need replacement.
A dead battery can signal a bigger problem. If the battery can’t hold a charge, it may need replacement. Rather than wait for another battery-related problem to arise, take your vehicle to a service center or auto parts store. Most places will test the battery free of charge.
To ensure a safe and successful jumpstart, attach jumper cables following these steps:
- Connect the red clamp to the positive terminal on the dead battery.
- Connect the other end of the red clamp to the positive terminal on the donor vehicle’s working battery.
- Connect the black clamp to the negative terminal on the donor vehicle’s working battery.
- Finally, connect the last black clamp to an unpainted metal part of the dead car (e.g., a bolt or bracket) not next to the battery. This method will prevent any unintentional sparks.

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