trad climbing Archives

The 5 Best Trad Climbing Areas in the United States

The U.S. has abundant rock types that lend themselves to amazing cracks. We also have stable weather in many of our trad climbing areas.

Written by Matt Samet February 23, 2023

The Basics of Trad Climbing Protection

Trad climbing involves a wide array of gear, including nuts, hexes, cams, Big Bros, and more, to ensure climbers stay safe.

Written by Mark Wilson January 24, 2023

Sending ‘Gigantor’: The Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Route

After zero people in 15 years were either capable of — or interested in — repeating this man’s scary 5.12 chossfest, he came back to…

Written by Sam Anderson January 13, 2023

Climbers Pull ‘The Naked Edge’ Speed Record to Near 20 Minutes

Watch Stefan Griebel reclaim his old ‘The Naked Edge’ speed record with Joe Kennedy here. The duo shaved the time down to 22:44.

Written by Sam Anderson October 31, 2022

Tradprincess: The First Woman to Climb 5.14a Roof Crack ‘Necronomicon’

As a nominally experienced crack climber, looking at ‘Necronomicon’ (5.14a) gives me two feelings: pain and hesitation. But Mary Eden does not care.

Written by Sam Anderson October 18, 2022

DiGiulian, Harrington, and Soderlund Climb 5.14b/8c Big Wall in Spain

Matilda Soderlund, Sasha DiGiulian and Brette Harrington worked together to send a 5.14b big wall in Spain this week.

Written by Andrew McLemore September 27, 2022

Vanhee, Larcher Explore the Upper Limits of Trad on ‘Le Voyage’

How special is “Le Voyage” (E10, 7a)? So special that almost no one who tries it can climb it. But Siebe Vanhee and Jacopo Larcher…

Written by Sam Anderson August 17, 2022

‘Girls Gone Wide’ Strike Again in Buddy-Style Climbing Sufferfest

Crack climbing specialists Mary Eden and Kaya Lindsay crank hard on a spicy multipitch route deep within Grand Canyon National Park.

Written by Jilli Cluff July 27, 2022

‘Girls Gone Wide’ and Hard Crack Climbs: ‘Tradprincess’ on 5.13 in Indian Creek

After a prolonged recovery from wrist surgery, Mary Eden returned to Indian Creek to battle a 5.13- finger crack.

Written by Andrew McLemore July 20, 2022

Flake No More: Sterling Adds ‘Send Ready’ Coil to Nano 8.9 XEROS Ropes

Sterling’s Nano 8.9 mm XEROS rope now comes with the Send Ready Coil, which it says makes the cord ‘ready-to-climb, straight from the factory.’

Written by Sam Anderson July 06, 2022

Climbing Big Cracks, Like Life, Is Suffering: Watch This Brutal Climb

In March 2022, Mari Salvesen flashed a fabled Indian Creek test piece. She’s the first woman and only the second person to pull it off.

Written by Jilli Cluff April 15, 2022

James Pearson Repeats Gritstone Frightener ‘Harder Faster,’ Facing Ground Fall From Top

The lifelong British crusher James Pearson returns to one of the most objectively dangerous and least-repeated single-pitch climbs in the U.K.

Written by Jilli Cluff December 13, 2021

‘Gritstone’ Climbing: First-Timer Tackles UK’s Unique Climbing Challenge

After years of dreaming about gritstone climbing, pro Siebe Vahnee finally visited the UK’s hallowed stones. Typical awful weather didn’t stop him from topping some…

Written by Sam Anderson December 10, 2021

Trad Bouldering? Austrian Climber Sends First Repeat of 5.14c ‘Into the Sun’

Lately, climber Jacopo Larcher, hailing from Tyrol, Austria, has been toying with the peculiar line between trad climbing and bouldering. His most recent ascent fits…

Written by Sam Anderson December 02, 2021

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