When it comes to backpacking, I will happily forgo most creature comforts. I can wear the same shirt for a week, and I don’t bring deodorant in order to save weight. Eating ramen for a week straight is no bother. However, as much as I love the dirtbag life, I am also not going to shake a stick at a shower, a bed, and a nice meal.
When it comes to the High Sierra Camp Loop in Yosemite National Park, going bougie is essentially the only way to do the trail. A series of camps along a high-altitude trail in the Tuolumne Meadows region of the park offers gourmet food, comfy cots, and other luxuries that are rare to find in backpacking. Here’s what you need to know to embark on this stunning experience.
What Is the High Sierra Camp Loop?
This 49-mile loop is located in the Tuolumne Meadows section of Yosemite, which is about 1.5 hours from Yosemite Valley. It ranges in elevation from 7,400 to 10,000 feet and provides access to many stunning alpine lakes, all in designated wilderness areas.
Every 6 to 10 miles, there is a High Sierra camp that offers three meals, canvas-tent cabins with cots, and rudimentary showers and restrooms. Sections of the trail overlap with sections of the John Muir Trail and Pacific Crest Trail.
While there are five camps total, only three are currently open, with the others closed to maintenance issues. Currently, hikers can thus only complete 32 miles of the loop. It’s possible to add a stay in one of the former camps, Tuolumne Meadows Lodge, the night before.
Why Go and What You Get
The Terrain
Having spent time in both Yosemite Valley and Tuolumne Meadows, I think the latter is more beautiful. The trail passes by dome after dome, waterfalls, and multiple jagged granite peaks. At Glen Aulin and May Lake camps, there are gorgeous, clean alpine lakes that are perfect for dipping in at the end of a long day.
With elevation up to 10,000 feet, it is also much cooler than the rest of the park, even in peak summer. I went at the end of July, and the temps were only in the low 80s. If I got too warm, I just took a quick dip in one of the many lakes I passed by.
This area was also substantially less crowded than the valley. While I saw a fair number of day hikers, I never got overwhelmed by the number of people. And since the number of overnight visitors is capped by permit, once I was a few miles into the trail, the number of people dropped off sharply. I got to have hours of alone time to myself, strolling through wildflower-filled meadows.
The Lodging
The accommodations are basic, but a far cry from a sleeping pad on the ground. Each canvas tent-cabin has four cots, so you need to be comfortable sharing space with strangers. May Lake and Sunrise also offer showers; being able to wash off the sweat and sunscreen each day felt ambrosial.
Participants do need to bring their own sleeping bag, but not much else. As someone who is used to carrying a 30-pound–plus pack, I felt so speedy and light on this trip. I brought my sleeping bag, clothes, snacks, and water bottles, and that was about it. I carried a 40L pack from Red Paw Packs, and that was plenty big enough. The hiking can be difficult at points, but carrying just a glorified daypack certainly helps make it easier.
The Food
I once survived for multiple days in the backcountry on just butter, cheese, canned chicken, and noodles, so eating simply on a backpacking trip is not a dealbreaker. However, I am also a former food magazine editor, and love a flavorful, interesting, and well-made meal. And boy, did I get plenty of those on this trip.
On my night in May Lake, the camp hosts brought out piles and piles of pan-seared trout coated with herbs and red onions. Another night, I enjoyed spicy chicken, rice, and sautéed veggies. For breakfast in Sunrise, I feasted on fresh berries, biscuits, sausage, and oatmeal.
Lunch was simple — sandwiches, fruit, a baked good, and chips — but it was better than my usual method of eating enough sour gummies so I don’t pass out.
Typically, on a backpacking trip, I almost never eat enough calories to replace my physical output, since carrying all that food would be too heavy. On this trip, however, I got to eat my fill, and I think that helped me physically recover for the next day’s hike — amazing that getting enough fat, protein, and carbs for once actually allowed me to feel good on trail. The meals were fresh and substantial without feeling heavy.
At the end of a long day of hiking, cooking can feel like a pain. Sometimes, it takes all the energy I can muster just to boil water to rehydrate a freeze-dried meal. So the fact that our lovely camp hosts did all the cooking felt like another treat. After I got to camp each day, I took off my pack, went for a swim, and read my book until the dinner bell rang.
How It Works
The season when the camps are open varies with the snow, but they typically run from June to September. Both guided and unguided options are available. The camps have, unsurprisingly, become incredibly popular, so there is now a lottery. Applications open in the spring, and recipients receive notice by email. If you are notified that you have won a spot in the lottery, you have 1 week to pay to reserve your spot.
I met many people on the trail who had tried for years to get a spot, while I managed to get one on my first try. I think my success was due to a few reasons. First, I was solo. Obviously, the system is going to have a harder time fitting in seven people than it does with just one. Second, I was very open with my dates and my itinerary. I was essentially willing to go at any time, in any direction.
My itinerary was the following: Tuolumne Meadows Lodge to May Lake to Sunrise. Thus, I skipped the Glen Aulin camp. I had to do a long 16 miles on my first day, but that wasn’t too challenging. For those newer to hiking or who don’t do well at high elevation, I’d recommend keeping the Glen Aulin stop.
The trip costs $200 per person per night. For dirtbags, that might be a high price to swallow. In my mind, it was worth it. Most campgrounds in Yosemite cost $36 a night, and for $200, I’m getting three square meals, a shower, and a nice bed. For a special, one-in-a-lifetime trip, I think it was worth paying that price.
Who Is It For?
I know people — like my own parents — who love the outdoors but, for whatever reason, refuse to sleep on the ground. If that’s you, this trip is perfect. It allows you to explore true wilderness and also get a good night’s sleep. If you’re new to backpacking and just want to get your feet a little wet, this is also a great, accessible introduction.
It is possible to hike this trail without staying at the camps, but that would require obtaining an even more competitive wilderness permit, and I’d argue that staying at the camps is part of what makes the experience. I got to meet people from all walks of life from all over the country, and share plenty of interesting conversations over dinner. I loved getting to tell people about GearJunkie and hear what they loved about the outdoors.
How difficult you’ll find the trail depends on your experience and fitness level. You should be comfortable hiking at least 8 miles per day over rocky, uneven terrain with ascents and descents of up to 1,680 feet. Be sure to keep in mind how your body reacts to high altitude.
If you are at all concerned about the hike or are new to the outdoors, there is a guided option. I stayed at a camp with a group doing the guided tour, and the guides seemed helpful, conscientious, and knowledgeable.
The History
In 1916, Stephen Mather of the National Park Service (NPS) commissioned a concessionaire, D.J. Desmond, to build three camps. Desmond went bankrupt shortly after they were built, and the NPS took over and reopened them in 1923, commissioning five more camps. A private concessionaire has always operated the camps, and the operator has changed hands over the years.
Aramark has served as the operator since 2016, and in that time, the camps have faced frequent closures. Two of the camps, Merced and Vogelsang, did not open for 2026. Many individuals online have criticized the company for failing to ensure proper maintenance and for providing poor customer service.
In my experience, part of the information available via Aramark was incorrect. The company told me, for example, that I’d be able to leave my car at Tuolumne Meadows Lodge the entirety of this trip. When I arrived, the helpful staff informed me that this was not true and helped me find another place to park. Be sure to confirm all details of your trip beforehand.
