The Best Packrafts of 2024

A packraft, simply put, is an inflatable boat that you can roll up and put in your backpack to carry for significant distances. Historically, these packable boats were used for more extreme bike/raft adventures, but in recent years have gained a broader fan base.

Whether heading out on a mega-adventure race or simply looking for an apartment-friendly boat, a packraft will suit you well. They handle all types of water, pack up small, and are fun.

While testing, we considered the following characteristics: ease of use, weight/packed size, durability, paddleability, and cost/value. We also favored boats that are readily available in North America.

If you need more help choosing a packraft, be sure to check out our extensive buyer’s guide at the end of this article. We’ve also assembled a comparison chart to weigh your options, as well as a FAQ section to get right to the point.

Editor’s Note: We updated our Packraft guide on March 20, 2024, to add two excellent boats from MRS: the do-it-all Microraft, and probably our favorite self-bailer on the market today: the Viking.

The Best Packrafts of 2024

• Best Overall Packraft: Alpacka Expedition
• Best Budget Packraft: Kokopelli XPD
• Best Whitewater Packraft: Alpacka Gnarwhal
• Best Backpacking Packraft: Uncharted Supply Co Rapid Raft
• Best Long Traverse Packraft: Alpacka Refuge
• Best Ultralight Packraft: Alpacka Ghost
• Most Durable Packraft: Kokopelli Recon Self-Bailing
• Best Double Packraft: Alpacka Forager

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Packrafts Comparison Chart

Packraft	Weight	Load Capacity	Packed Size	Water Rating	Material
Alpacka Expedition	8 lbs., 3 oz.	350 lbs.	17 in. x 7.5 in.	Class I – IV	Proprietary 210D high-count nylon hull and 840D ballistic nylon floor
Kokopelli XPD	13 lbs.	300 lbs.	24 in. x 10 in.	Flat water, bays, inlets, Class I – II	1000D reinforced PVC
Alpacka Gnarwhal	9 lbs., 3 oz.	450 lbs.	20 in. x 9.5 in.	Class I – IV	Proprietary 210D nylon hull and 840D ballistic nylon floor
Uncharted Supply Co Rapid Raft	3 lbs., 13 oz.	400 lbs.	15 in. x 5 in.	Ideal for quick water crossings, flat water	Nylon oxford TPU laminate
Alpacka Refuge	6.7 lbs.	250 lbs.	15 in. x 8 in.	Class I – III	Proprietary lightweight 210D nylon hull and 840D nylon floor
Alpacka Ghost	2 lbs., 4 oz.	225 lbs.	11 in. x 5 in.	Flat water, mountain lakes, simple river crossings	Proprietary ultralight 70D nylon hull and 200D nylon floor
Kokopelli Recon Self-Bailing	18 lbs.	300 lbs.	22 in. x 14 in.	Class I – IV	1000-denier reinforced PVC
Alpacka Forager	13 lbs., 7 oz.	1,000 lbs.	20 in. x 10 in.	Class I – IV	Proprietary 420D nylon hull and 840D ballistic nylon floor
MRS Viking Self Bailer	9 lbs., 11 oz.	300 lbs.	24 in. x 6 in.	Class I-III	420D TPU nylon hull, and 840D TPU nylon floor
Kokopelli Twain Lite	8 lbs., 11.2 oz.	300 lbs.	16 in. x 8 in.	Flat water, lakes, Class I	210D TPU and nylon hull, and 840D TPU and nylon floor
Kokopelli Rogue R-Deck	9 lbs., 1 oz.	300 lbs.	16 in. x 8 in.	Flat water, bays, inlets, Class I – II	210D TPU hull, and 210D TPU + DuPont Kevlar Aramid-nylon blend floor
MRS Microraft	7 lbs., 4.8 oz.	250 lbs.	24 in. x 16 in.	Flat water, Class I-II	210D TPU nylon tubes, 840D TPU nylon floor
Klymit Lite Water Dinghy	2 lbs., 12 oz.	300 lbs.	9.5 in. x 5.75 in.	Flat water, mountain lakes	210D polyester
Alpacka Scout	3 lbs., 12.8 oz.	250 lbs.	12 in. x 6.25 in.	Flat water, alpine lakes, quick river crossings	Proprietary lightweight 210D nylon hull and 420D nylon floor
Kokopelli Hornet-Lite	5 lbs., 3 oz.	300 lbs.	12 in. x 7 in.	Flat water, lakes	70D TPU hull, 210D TPU floor

How We Tested Packrafts

GearJunkie is lucky to play host to a number of packrafters — from the packraft-curious to paddling fiends. Two such experts are Chelsey and Jason Magness, who completed an early descent of the now-classic Little Nahanni River to access the Cirque of the Unclimbables in 2005.

The ensuing expedition also became the first ascent of Lotus Flower Tower without using air to access the Cirque, and the possibilities of using packrafts to access deep locales opened up. Since that first introduction, packrafting has changed our relationship with the outdoors more profoundly than many other pieces of gear.

Over the past 20 years, the packraft (just like the early days of mountain biking) has gone from a single utilitarian design to countless specialized ones. They run the gamut from sub-2-pound ultralights, to Class V-capable whitewater boats, to two-person builds that can carry more than 1,000 pounds.

In order to test a boat’s meddle, we paddled them in all kinds of conditions and water types — from rucking them into high alpine lakes to running swollen Class II-III Cascadian rivers. We paid special mind to ease of packing, paddling ability, storage options, and durability.

With packrafting still growing as a sport, we’ll continue to inflate the best-of-the-best and add them here if we think they’ve made the cut. If you’re looking to paddle something with a bit more structure, check out our best kayak or paddleboard reviews.

Buyer’s Guide: How to Choose a Packraft

What Is Packrafting?

Simply put, a packraft is an inflatable boat that you can roll up and put in your backpack. These boats usually weigh about 5-10 pounds, only take up a portion of the space in your pack, and are usually inflated with a minimalist “inflation bag” instead of a pump.

Most notably, packrafts are durable enough to survive some level of rugged and remote usage where equipment failure is less of an option. They are much more durable than the similarly shaped vinyl boats or pool toys that are widely and cheaply available at big-box stores.

Like other watercraft, packrafts are also designed to be either generalists or specialists in their respective uses — from big whitewater boats to plunk-around and paddle crafts — and a number of different levers can be pulled in fine-tuning a boat, from tube size to material thickness to bow and stern shape. Choosing which packraft is right for you will require some consideration of exactly how you want to use it.

Packraft User Profiles

The Casual Paddler: For the packrafter looking for a little of everything, finding an even-keeled boat is all about balancing ability and packability. Typical tube material denier lands around 210-420, with floors often being a thicker 840D.

Most material will be TPU, which packs down smaller than the PVC used on cheaper boats. Finally, look for a boat that offers the adaptability you’ll want for different types of paddling. Whitewater decks can be ordered as removable, which is a huge plus for easy lazy-river drifting.

The Kokopelli Rogue R-Deck is an inflatable Swiss Army knife, amenable to everything from flat water cruising to dipping your toes into Class I and II white water when you’re ready to crank the dial a bit. And if the Rogue is a multitool, then the Alpacka Expedition is a hammer — capable of throwing down in turbulent water and being saddled up with a load of kit.

The Whitewater Hound: Time to get rowdy. Paddling a packraft through heavy water can be an absolute hoot, but you’ll need a rig that can stand up to the abuse. For those looking to get pitted, consider the spray-decked and self-bailing options available. The former will provide a drier and warmer ride when paired with a whitewater skirt, while the latter is much easier to jump in and out of.

You’ll also want to ensure your ride has a solid set of thigh straps installed, which gives you much more leverage over your boat in unsteady water. Finally, aim for a more rockered bow with larger (11″+) tubes that help your packraft punch through holes.

When the time comes to ride some whitewater, we almost always reach for the high-volume Alpacka Gnarwhal — a raft that seems to levitate over deep holes and sucking backwaters. For adventures that are further afield, the Alpacka Expedition tightens the belt a bit to save a pound without sacrificing much ability. And if warm water or frequent portages are on the menu, a self-bailer like the MRS Viking makes things easy.

The Backcountry Hunter and Fisher: When a fully dressed moose can weigh north of 500 pounds, you’re going to need the big rig of the packrafting world to ruck it out. Packrafts have been used successfully in deep backcountry hunts for years, and anyone aiming to bring one along should look for a boat that has max loaded capacity above whatever you’re looking to pack out (plus yourself).

A 400-pound limit will typically carry smaller game like deer and sheep, while a 500 to 750-pound limit will carry larger game like caribou and elk. The Alpacka Forager is the ultimate in big-game packrafting, while the Alpacka Mule and Caribou offer a mid-size and ultralight option to fill out your quiver.

Anglers, on the other hand, don’t need as much space to pack out their quarry, and should instead aim for a raft that’s both burly and lightweight and provides extra space for storing tackle and rods. For stalking fish around low-land lakes and rivers, the 1,000D PVC of the Kokopelli XPD shrugs off errant hooksets, and the Kokopelli Twain Lite offers up an extended bow for extra storage. For high-alpine endeavors, opt for a lightweight boat such as the ~4-pound Uncharted Supply Co Rapid Raft or even more packable Alpacka Scout.

The Long-Distance Traverser: We get it — you’re an old hand at this packrafting thing, and you probably already know the drill: Go light, go capable, go far. In the past, you had to choose which side of the weight issue your boat was going to lean toward. Utilizing lightweight materials such as 210D TPU will aid in keeping your overall packed size and weight down. A smaller boat will also accomplish the same goal.

New-generation boats like the Alpacka Refuge are changing the game when it comes to paddling bigger and more remote whitewater — bringing the full complement of whitewater rigging to a 7-pound-out-the-door boat that has no problem paddling Class III water. If you’re up against simple water crossings, the Alpacka Scout or the even lighter (and fragile) Alpacka Ghost are excellent options.

Materials and Construction

The early boats that inspired the packraft were made from PVC and vinyl. And you can still get boats for under 50 bucks that are lightweight and float and look kinda like a packraft. But they also puncture easily, leading to unplanned deflations.

Most modern packrafts are made of a nylon fabric that has been coated with thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU). This coating makes all the difference in the construction of a packraft, and is tough, air- and water-tight, UV-resistant, and remains flexible when tensioned. Materials coated with TPU also are heat-bondable, which means that they can be sealed together with heat or radio-frequency (RF) welding. This creates an exceptionally strong bond, and is the basis for most packraft construction today.

Hull Materials

Hull fabrics can be a range of different types, but it all comes down to one factor in comparing one against the other: the denier. This is the thread weight of the fabric, meaning the higher the denier, the thicker and tougher the fabric. Typical hull denier is a 210D material, with ultralight craft like the Alpacka Ghost using 70D, and backcountry brutes like the Forager using 420D.

While nylon is the prevailing hull material in packrafts today, it isn’t the rule, and some other specialty fabrics offer higher tear resistance and rigidity, such as the 400D Vectran fabric that Alpacka Raft offers, or the DuPont Kevlar Aramid Kokopelli uses in their ‘X-Series’ of boats. All of these materials will be coated with TPU on either one of both sides, with single-coated fabrics having a higher tear strength.

How the hull is constructed is as important as the material it is constructed from, and some more budget-minded packrafts will construct their hulls with only glued seams, which create a chemical bond between the fabrics, but often need to be seam-taped for durability, adding bulk. This is why more commonly, packrafts are constructed by heat welding the hulls together.

Alpacka Raft takes a durability-minded approach and sews their packrafts together after the component panels have been RF welded, and then double tapes the seams. This creates a burly construction that we’ve yet to see fail in the wild.

Floor Materials

Bumping along a river at low flow can be rough-going for a packraft, and because of this, floor materials will always be of a more durable denier fabric than that used to make the hull tubes. 840D is the most common floor material weight, though light boats like the Alpacka Scout utilize 420D floors, and even lighter still boats will use 210D, like that in the Kokopelli Hornet-Lite.

Here, too, specialty fabrics like Kokopelli’s DuPont Kevlar Aramid-nylon can be used to increase durability, but not without a weight and packability ding. Floors are more commonly glued to the hulls of packrafts, and then seam-taped to finish the transition and strengthen the bond.

Inflation Setup

Most modern packrafts eschew the use of a pump and instead use an ultralight inflation bag that looks like a sil-nylon trash can liner. The bag screws onto the boat on one end. Then, you scoop air to fill the bag, twist the top, and push all that air volume into the boat.

Many boats also have a one-way inflation valve for topping off the boat. We would not recommend any boat for serious use that does not have this one-way feature. While early packrafts utilized cheaper Boston valves, many new packrafts incorporate modern whitewater rafting valves, such as the Leafield D7.

Besides pump sacks, there are other mechanical methods for inflation that can greatly speed up your deployment time. The Pack-A-Pump ($65) from Alpacka Raft is a plunger-style inflator that works specifically with Alpacka’s proprietary valves, or you could go electric with the Feather Pump ($50) from Kokopelli.

Seats

Seat configuration varies widely. But for any paddle longer than 30 minutes, it is really important to have a decent seat that positions your hips higher than your feet. A backrest or backband is also essential to help create a sustainable and healthy paddling position.

There is a balance between being too low in a boat, where the paddling position suffers, and too high, where gravity begins to take over and pull at you. Experiment by trying different seats and modifying the stack height with pieces of foam, or even adding another seat entirely.

Inflatable seats can be inflated to different firmness levels according to the height and comfort you’re looking to get out of them, as well as adjusted fore and aft to obtain the ideal athletic stance of knees slightly bent and braced against the bow of the packraft.

Backbands too can be inflatable, however, we only recommend these for more generalist boats, as true whitewater paddling requires power transfer through this interface, and an EVA foam backband will perform much better overall.

Thigh Straps

Thigh straps are a must for any serious whitewater Class IV and above. They allow the development of boat control skills that are needed for technical maneuvering. They also make it possible for expert users to reliably execute the “packraft roll.”

Basic thigh straps connect at two points within the packraft — at the ankles and beside the hips — and provide a moderate amount of stability. Advanced, or high-performance, thigh straps add two additional attachment points at the knees to increase the force distribution.

Many rafts are set up to run thigh straps, while others might be retrofitted to accept them. Note that adding additional straps can increase the entrapment hazard, and learning how to properly escape from your boat is necessary. Straps like the Alpacka DIY Thigh Strap Kit or Kokopelli 3-Point Thigh Strap Set are great options.

Gear Storage

One of our tester’s first expeditions saw strapping 40-pound packs to the bow of the boats, and another 20-pound dry bag full of climbing gear at their feet. Visibility was limited, and the cramped foot position was less than desirable. When the boat flipped, it was difficult to right. And nearly everything got some level of wet, regardless of how many dry bags it was packed in.

The availability of internal storage via the TiZip was a major step forward in packrafting when Alpacka introduced it in 2012. It keeps gear dry, actually improves boat handling, and makes longer expeditions much more reasonable.

The TiZips are well-proven at this point. Although they demand a little more care and add a bit more packing complexity, they are well worth it for most users and have been adopted as a standard option for nearly every major brand.

Self-Bailing, Bucket-Style, and Decked Designs

Self-bailing packrafts borrow from the whitewater rafting world, and feature a bottom with holes in it that allow water to pass through the boat. There will also typically be an inflatable seat that might span the length of the cockpit, in order to keep the paddler drier. Some boats, like the MRS Viking Self-Bailer, will incorporate a 3/4 length seat in addition to a foot brace — creating a foot well to brace against and for water to drain efficiently.

Paddling a self-bailing packraft will often feel a little more sluggish than a ‘bucket-style’ boat, but this can also create a boat that feels more planted on the water. If you’ll be paddling somewhere where the water is especially warm, or you anticipate having to do many portages on your runs, a self-bailer can make good sense. Some boats even add directional baffles to the holes in the floor, making for a smoother paddle.

A closed deck design is preferable for colder-water paddling, when keeping as much water out of the boat as possible is ideal. These designs also provide a bit more structure to a boat, and add durability when strapping equipment like bikes down to the deck. Spraydecks vary in design, and while some can be removable (via zippers or Velcro), others are permanently affixed to the boat.

These spraydecks work in conjunction with a whitewater skirt, which provides the interface between the paddler and the boat. Skirts are primarily designed for whitewater to keep water out, with a piece of PEX piping being used to create a lip (coaming) around the cockpit, which the skirt secures around.

It is basically a packraft version of what you see in every river-running hardshell kayak. In the event of a capsize, you can release the skirt with a pull loop at the front of the boat.

Some more generalist packrafts have a cruiser-style deck that attaches only with Velcro and can be completely removed if desired to create an open boat. These decks are simple, but only keep about 70% of the water out. In whitewater, a cruiser-decked boat will eventually fill and need to be emptied in order to maintain control and paddle-ability.

Somewhere in the middle, bucket-style boats have solid floors, but no decks atop the packraft. These are excellent workhorse boats for casual paddling on flatwater, but can become swamped if taken into rowdy water. Because they lack the extra functionality, these bucket-style boats are often also cheaper than the other two design options, and make perfect beginner packrafts.

Whitewater vs. Flatwater

Buy the packraft that is going to fit your most common usage scenario. If you plan on almost exclusively paddling lakes, bays, and calmer rivers, then any open boat model is best. They are simple, lighter, and cheaper. And they’ll handle just fine if you get ambitious with some Class II once in a while.

Looking for more time on rivers and less on lakes? A basic self-bailer or decked boat (Alpacka Classic Series, or the Kokopelli Rogue) handles some Class II-III water while still being light and small enough to take on just about any trip.

If you are planning on spending most of your time playing among eddies, holes, and waves, get a boat that is made for it. The Alpacka Expedition or Kokopelli Nirvana will serve you well.

For a pure whitewater beast, we recommend the Gnarwhal or Wolverine, which come ready to party with all your Class IV hardshell friends — but are packable to take places they’d never carry their kayaks. The Kokopelli Recon can fit this niche too for a budget option, but what you save in dollars you pay for in weight.

Handling

We’re not going to lie and say that packrafts handle great. They take some getting used to and, initially, they waggle a lot for most novice paddlers. But with some practice, the boats can paddle quite straight at decent speeds.

In general, the smaller ultralight boats will be the slowest. Self-bailers will be a little more sluggish both in speed and responsiveness than boats without holes in the floor. But a full boat — if you get swamped in waves — is much worse.

Boats that have a one-way valve for inflation allow for more pressure in the tubes. And this means better handling. The ability to get a tight boat is perhaps more important than any hull design feature.

Finally, boat handling is better if you fit well and are comfortable in the boat. Make sure you are getting a boat sized for you. Too small a boat, and you’ll sit lower in the water and be more cramped for longer paddles. In whitewater, a too-small boat capsizes more easily. Too big and it will be hard to effectively maneuver the boat, and you’ll spend a lot of extra energy to do so.

Some packrafts, like the Alpacka Expedition or the Gnarwhal, are available in a number of different sizes, while the majority of rafts on the market are of the one-size-fits-most variety. These boats will often instead utilize an adjustable backband and seat set-up to allow for some adjustability.

Still needing to take up some space at the end of your raft? Using a commercial brace like the Whitewater Foot Brace from Alpacka Raft can be an excellent way to take up some slack, though we’ve also seen paddlers using everything from yoga blocks to beach balls.

Rolled Size and Weight

The weight weenies among us like to count ounces, but in reality, choosing a packraft based on weight is a bad idea. Pick a boat that meets your paddling skills and use scenarios, and you’ll adapt to the size and weight.

Still, for more remote and lengthy use cases, pack size and weight are worth taking into consideration. With good technique, the roll size can be reduced significantly. And nearly all the single rafts we’ve used can be compressed enough to fit into a 40L pack (or lashed to bike handlebars) with plenty of room to spare.

If you are really concerned about weight, take the extra 10 minutes to dry it out. The weight difference between rolling a wet boat and a dry one can be up to several pounds!

Load Capacity

Pay attention to load capacity. If you get close to (or over) it, you will significantly affect performance. Most boats’ “maximum load” is the total weight limit of the paddler plus gear that will allow the boat to have good, consistent handling characteristics in ideal conditions.

Exceeding this does not mean the boat will sink. We’ve paddled the Alpacka Scout (250-pound limit) with two adults plus gear (300+ pounds) in nonideal conditions so many times, we’ve lost count.

But, then again, we’ve also used a carbon fiber paddle to dig a snow cave on the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier and it was pretty hard on the paddle. In short, the load capacity is a recommendation, and most boats are capable of at least floating more.

Durability

In general, packrafts are burly, but lighter boats are generally less durable. So, use a bit more caution with a packraft. If your boat is equipped with a TiZip, that is one of the easiest places to introduce leaks. So, make sure you learn how to care for it and keep it grit-free.

Less expensive boats (as noted in the “materials” sections) may be crafted from a PU fabric that is easier to tear, abrade, and delaminate than some of the more premium boats. We recommend sticking with the more established brands that have good customer service and pride themselves on craftsmanship.

Packraft Pro Tips

1. Temper your boat: It should be nice and firm and will require at least one top-off after you get into the water. A more rigid boat paddles much better than a soft boat. And it is less likely to get leaks due to abrasion from rocks or contact with sharp sticks. Use care not to leave your boat in the sun once fully pressurized. This can cause damage and leaks due to overpressurization. Most manufacturers recommend a max inflation of 1.5-2.5 psi.
2. Learn to field repair your boat: Most boats come with a small repair kit that can solve most leaks or minor damage within a few minutes. Small leaks are common with aggressive usage and are not a concern if you understand how to fix them. In addition to the repair kit, we carry a small bit of Tyvek tape (wound around a paddle shaft), which will take care of nearly every problem long enough to finish your trip and make a more permanent repair. For boats with a TiZip, one pro analogizes it to lip care: “I never use lip balm, and I come back from every trip with sore and chapped lips that take a week to heal. My wife is super diligent and never has that issue.” The cargo fly is the same. The zipper doesn’t heal when you don’t keep it lubricated. Light, frequent lubrication is the key!
3. Slow down on the paddle strokes: Watch an expert paddle — they make it look effortless. Fewer strokes with deeper paddle penetration and smooth power is better than frantically slashing at the surface. Take the time to practice your strokes in more ideal settings so that they become automatic and easy. It will make a world of difference to your enjoyment as your missions increase in duration.

FAQ