daniel woods climbing on "Sleepwalker" v16 boulder problem

First V17 Boulder Problem in the US? Daniel Woods Sends ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’

Three months. Sixty-five days. One boulder. And one really, really tough line.

Today, Daniel Woods, a pro climber based in Boulder, Colo., put up “Return of the Sleepwalker,” a proposed 9A/V17. If accepted, it will be the first in the U.S. and one of the first in the world.

“It’s all just a game people … and I play the game,” Woods wrote online. “The game is how comfortable can you become with your own insanity.”

 

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Woods is one of the few climbers in the world to have climbed both a 5.15 and V16, the top grades in two climbing disciplines.

Located in Red Rock, Nev., “Sleepwalker” is a V16, ranked one of the hardest lines in the U.S. and the world. For Woods’ proposed V17, “Return of the Sleepwalker,” he added a sit start as opposed to a stand start. That change alone added about five V13 moves to an already difficult V16. Many pro climbers — Tommy Caldwell and Emily Harrington included — are already in agreement on social media that Woods’ line looks like a true V17.

“Love how this thing requires a ton of power resistance and accuracy,” wrote Woods about a month into his V17 project. “Basically, there is no room for error. Accuracy, flow, and tension have to be flawless. Wild game with this one. [Definitely] some of the best set of moves I’ve done out there.”

Woods put up the second ascent of the original Sleepwalker 2 years ago, which you can watch below:

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Mary Murphy
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Mary Murphy is the Managing Editor of GearJunkie and serves as the leader of Lola Digital Media’s DEI Committee.

She has been writing about hiking, running, climbing, camping, skiing, and more for seven years, and has been on staff at GearJunkie since 2019. Prior to that, Mary wrote for 5280 Magazine in Denver while working as an outdoor instructor teaching climbing, kayaking, paddleboarding, and mountain biking at Avid4Adventure. Based in Denver, Colorado, Murphy is an avid hiker, runner, backpacker, skier, yogi, and pack-paddleboarder.