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Passing into the realm of the up-there requires not only a mindset change but also a good change of clothing. Waterproof, burly, and breathable, the best hardshell jackets provide it all for your next foray into mountaineering, backcountry skiing, alpine climbing, or just downright miserable weather. 

After many seasons spent above treeline, I winnowed my closet down to the most capable shells on the market in 2026. Included are jackets for every alpine mission, from burly alpine armor like my top pick, the Arc’teryx Beta AR, to budget-minded shells like the Patagonia M10 Storm that will get you in and out in one piece.

During testing, my team and I sought out high-mountain terrain that would sufficiently test the weatherproofing, durability, and livability of these jackets. We paid special mind to long-term performance over 24-hour periods, and our testing included input from alpine enthusiasts of every stripe, from current American Mountain Guides Association-certified guides to weekend warriors. Below, I’ve gathered the best hardshell jackets that made the grade during our travels.

Editor’s Note: We updated our Hardshell Jacket guide on January 4, 2026, to add the North Face Papsura as our best ‘Fast and Light’ hardshell choice. We’ve also updated our testing feedback on several different shells as the market shifts to using the new GORE-TEX ePE membrane — a PFAS-free design that is just as waterproof as the old material, but requires more frequent washing to maintain its effectiveness.

The Best Hardshell Jackets of 2026

Best Budget Hardshell Jacket

Patagonia M10 Storm

Patagonia M10 Storm

7.0/10 RATING

Best Hardshell for Extreme Alpinism

Arc’teryx Alpha SV Jacket

Arc’teryx Alpha SV Jacket

9.3/10 RATING

Best Hardshell Jacket for Ski Mountaineering

Ortovox Westalpen 3L Jacket

Ortovox Westalpen 3L Jacket

7.5/10 RATING

Best Fast and Light Hardshell

The North Face Papsura

The North Face Papsura

8.9/10 RATING
See more picks

Rating Details

Weather Protection 9/10
Breathability 8/10
Comfort & Fit 9/10
Weight 7/10

Specifications

Material Construction
80D/100D 3L GORE-TEX Pro ePE
Waterproof Rating (mm)
28,000
Breathability Rating (RET)
<13
Fit
Regular
Pockets
Two handwarming pockets
Weight
1 lb., 0.2 oz.
Best For
General mountaineering, ski-touring, alpine rock

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Versatile feature set
  • Unique raised collar for weather protection
  • Built with GORE-TEX Pro ePE membrane
  • Lightweight at only 1 pound (tested men's medium)
  • Rugged exterior shell fabric absorbs abrasion

Cons

  • Price
  • New version of GORE-TEX Pro ePE needs to be re-waterproofed more often
  • No two-way front zipper
Nick Belcaster

One metric was truly the deciding factor for landing the Arc’teryx Beta AR Jacket ($650) at the top of the heap, and it’s all in the name. All Round. In a pile of hyper-specialized hardshells, versatility is the name of the game, and the Beta AR balances the scales with ease.

Since my initial testing of the Beta AR, it now uses a new GORE-TEX ePE Pro membrane to replace the previous version, which utilized PFAS chemicals in the textile itself. GORE-TEX and Arc’teryx both claim the same impressive waterproofing metrics for the new flavor, with a slight ding to overall breathability. The biggest difference that most people will notice is the lower performance of non-PFAS DWR finishes — something that can be improved with more frequent washings.

The 80D face fabric used in the body of the jacket is more durable than most hardshells, and is only reinforced further by the 100D textile used in the yoke and arms. Previous versions of the Beta AR used to use an 80D/40D fabric mix, and somehow the new version weighs the same as the old (thanks to the lighter ePE membrane). This shift means you get a net more durable hardshell without any added weight — rare in this style of jacket.

One of my favorite features of the Beta AR was the tall protective collar, a 2.5-inch-tall barrier that allows you the choice of keeping the hood down during gusty conditions. I loved having the choice of a middle-ground option when weather started to kick up, and the microsuede lining on the interior of the collar makes for a comfortable cockpit.

To test the mettle of the Beta AR, I’ve ski toured in Pacific Northwest storm cycles, dry-tooled at dripping crags, and explored the glaciers of the North Cascades National Park, and throughout it all, the Beta came out smiling. More in-depth testing of this shell came when our team used it to ski into a remote cabin in Alaska, where it shouldered stiff winds with ease.

While many alpine-focused shells like the Arc’teryx Alpha will sacrifice handwarmer pockets for chest pockets, this hardshell opts instead to retain the hand pockets and adds an additional pocket on the interior of the jacket for extra storage. Not every trip is going to be full-tilt, and having the ability to warm your hands certainly kept me out longer during testing. 

Though both the Beta AR and Alpha SV jackets reside under the regular fit label from Arc’teryx, I found the Beta to better represent the title, while the latter jacket was a bit roomier. Perfect for the mountaineer, alpine climber, or ice-aficionado who wants a jacket that’ll do it all, the Beta AR hits the spot.

Rating Details

Weather Protection 7/10
Breathability 6/10
Comfort & Fit 7/10
Weight 7/10

Specifications

Material Construction
30D 3L H2No Performance Standard
Waterproof Rating (mm)
N/A
Breathability Rating (RET)
N/A
Fit
Active/Trim
Pockets
Two Napoleon chest pockets
Weight
10.9 oz.
Best For
Ice leading, ski-mountaineering, and alpine ascents

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Super lightweight for the protection it provides
  • Relatively budget price
  • Two-way front zipper
  • Chest pockets are different sizes for storing both gloves and smaller kit
  • Wrist cuffs have a polyurethane lining to grip and stay put

Cons

  • H2No membrane isn't the most waterproof out there
  • DWR finish will need to be refreshed more often
  • No pit zips
Nick Belcaster

The Patagonia M10 Storm Jacket ($379) is one of the lightest alpine-focused shells on the market, weighing in at just under 10 ounces — and has a low price tag to match. Designed with minimalism in mind, the shell is constructed from 30D ripstop nylon, which is surprisingly light and supple, feeling more like a rain jacket than a hardshell.

While it may lack the durability of the higher-denier Arc’teryx Beta AR, I found the M10 Storm plenty rugged and appreciated the all-day comfort of the more flexible and less crinkly material. The women’s version is also made with plenty of room in the hem, making it a comfortable choice for anyone with larger hips. 

Despite the minimalist, lightweight construction, the M10 Storm still has plenty of features to keep climbers happy. A two-way zipper allows for easy belay loop access, while two chest pockets are placed well above harnesses and hip belts. The pockets are two different sizes, with the left chest pocket featuring a longer, 9.5-inch zipper versus a 9-inch one on the right. The different sizes make the front of the jacket look a little unbalanced, but I found it worth it for the extra storage space in the left pocket.

The hood is helmet-compatible with three-way adjustment, though the brim is significantly smaller than those on more storm-bunker shells like the Alpha SV. Inside the cuffs, polyurethane texturing aids in gripping gloves and keeps spindrift from sneaking in when swinging tools overhead.

The shell uses Patagonia’s in-house 3-layer H2No waterproofing, and it begins to fall short when it comes to breathability. I wasn’t overly impressed with the jacket during high-output missions and found it started to feel quite clammy inside on the uphill sections. This isn’t helped by the lack of pit zips; without them, there’s no way to dump excess heat.

The M10 Storm is a great option for light-is-right climbers and hikers who are looking for a lightweight, sustainable shell with most of the features of higher-priced hardshells. However, if you tend to overheat on uphills, you may want to shell out a little more money for something like The North Face Papsura FUTURELIGHT, another sub-10-ounce shell that leans more to the breathable side.

Rating Details

Weather Protection 9/10
Breathability 7/10
Comfort & Fit 9/10
Weight 8/10

Specifications

Material Construction
100D 3L GORE-TEX Pro ePE
Waterproof Rating (mm)
28,000
Breathability Rating (RET)
<13
Fit
Roomy
Pockets
Two Napoleon chest pockets
Weight
1 lb., 2 oz.
Best For
Deep expeditions, mixed rock, and ice climbing

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Burly 100D outer face fabric paired with GORE’s new ePE Pro
  • Excellent water-resistant zippers
  • Integrated RECCO reflector
  • Roomy fit accommodates large insulation layers underneath
  • Fairly light for the protection provided

Cons

  • Quite expensive
  • Breathability isn't the best for very high-output activities
  • New DWR finishes won't impress those familiar with the old stuff
Nick Belcaster

Read Review: Arc’teryx Alpha SV Review: Last Shell Standing After Alaskan First Ascents

With almost 25 years under its hem, the Arc’teryx Alpha SV Jacket ($900) makes no excuses for itself when it comes to big terrain, rough weather, and the prospect of an extended stay. Arc’teryx has a well-worn groove in the hardshell game, and with its pinnacle Alpha SV offering being near archetypal at this point, it had little effort in proving itself the best for extreme alpine pursuits in my testing.

The Alpha SV (“Severe Weather”) truly shines when the sun doesn’t — thriving on the spindrift, driving rain, and howling winds that can turn an alpine route into a sufferfest. A true ‘to-the-hilt’ build means this jacket is hewn from a 100D(!) GORE-TEX ePE Pro material, which, in my experience, isn’t much different compared to the older PFAS membranes, but will benefit from more frequent washings.

The cut is pure alpine, tailoring overhead ice tool swinging, ski touring, and the occasional chimney grovel. This articulated design is brought together with minimal stitching and uses narrow seam tape that both cuts down on bulk and increases available membrane for vapor relief. Smart.

While the jacket lacks hand-warming pockets, it makes up for it in other storage for things like belay mitts or a V-thread tool. The twin Napoleon pockets on the chest are slant for easy access and guarded by highly water-resistant zippers, which, in my own testing, take their job seriously. No water penetrated through during an alpine storm I experienced on the flanks of Kulshan this summer.

I’m still puzzled by the lack of a two-way front zipper (in fact, none of Arc’teryx’s hardshell jackets feature such a zip), which typically can be a boon for belaying while under cover. A bit of tucking makes it manageable. 

Compared to a more all-around hardshell like the Beta AR, the Alpha SV feels like an idea taken to its natural (and rugged) conclusion. At only an extra 2 ounces of weight, the bump up to a 100D weave, and the inclusion of a few other alpine niceties mean the SV is the top dog in my book when the weather truly turns for the worse.

Rating Details

Weather Protection 7/10
Breathability 8/10
Comfort & Fit 7/10
Weight 7/10

Specifications

Material Construction
3L Toray Derminax NX
Waterproof Rating (mm)
20,000
Breathability Rating (g/m²)
28,000
Fit
Active/Trim
Pockets
Two handwarming, one Napoleon chest pocket
Weight
1 lb., 1.3 oz.
Best For
Ski-mountaineering, quick-paced (or tram-assisted) alpinism

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Lightweight and flexible shell
  • Soft merino wool inserts on interior collar
  • Impressive breathability
  • Integrated stretch in fabric

Cons

  • More trim cut won't work for everyone, or for layering much underneath
  • Fine-toothed zippers can be difficult to move
  • Left-handed main zipper
Nick Belcaster

Another season, another killer ski touring shell from Ortovox. Compared to my previous award winner, the Ortler, the Ortovox Westalpen 3L Jacket ($640) has a longer-cut torso and sleeves, making it more amenable to overhead ice axe plunging, as well as an added torso pocket for your skin wax, ski straps, and sunnies. 

Thankfully, Ortovox is still using the same killer Dermizax NX fabric in this jacket, and I’m still impressed with it. In a field dominated by GORE-TEX Pro, this unique nonporous membrane specs out at 20,000 mm of waterproofing and an impressive 28,000 g/m² breathability rating, placing it head and shoulders over many other membranes.

This fabric also boasts a great amount of stretch across the material, which is key since the Westalpen has what many in North America would call the Euro fit — a slimmer cut that prioritizes moving with the body over an ability to layer under the jacket. This is something I can get behind during high-output activities like ski touring.

The shell does gain a little weight for the added coverage and features (to the tune of about 2.5 ounces, on my scales), but I find it to be a better jacket for it. Rounding out the shell is a set of three chest pockets, 12” pit zips, and a two-way front zipper to accommodate ski-mountaineering harnesses.

For straight-ahead ski touring, the Ortler is still an excellent shell, but the Westalpen 3L Jacket is a more well-rounded shell that still leans hard into its skiing roots. The zippers are still of the sometimes-frustrating fine-tooth variety, but with enough use, they run a bit better.

Ski-mountaineers might also consider the North Face Torre Egger FUTURELIGHT jacket, which boasts even more breathability than the Westalpen for those high-output days in the skintrack where you’re really cranking out the vert. The waterproofing is about the same between these two shells (with a slight edge going to the Ortovox), and my choice to go with the Westalpen boils down to that stretch — it’s just plain nice when ripping skins or swinging tools.

Rating Details

Weather Protection 7/10
Breathability 9/10
Comfort & Fit 8/10
Weight 9/10

Specifications

Waterproof Membrane
FUTURELIGHT 3L
Waterproof Rating
Unavailable
Breathability Rating
75,000 g/m²
Pit Zips
No
Fit
Active/Slim
Weight
8 oz.

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Quite lightweight at 8 ounces
  • Highly breathable air-permeable membrane
  • Climbing-specific fit and features
  • Non-PFC DWR finish

Cons

  • Crinkly 7D material can be a bit noisy if you're paying attention
  • Won't be as waterproof as other hardshell jackets
  • Price
Nick Belcaster

The North Face Papsura ($390) is the hardshell I reach for when conditions look fair, and I’m looking to move quickly and light. The breathability-first FUTURELIGHT membrane pumps out perspiration better than pretty much any other hardshell out there, and while it does give up some weatherproofing to get there, when conditions call for it, this 8-ounce shell shines.

That FUTURELIGHT membrane is really what makes the Papsura possible, and the open pore structure means that, unlike diffusion-based technologies like GORE-TEX, air can actively pass through FUTURELIGHT, making the breathability very impressive. I’ve previously used this waterproof membrane in the brand’s Torre Egger jacket, but the difference here is the super-lightweight textile layup, which uses a super-thin 7-denier face fabric.

In the hand, this jacket feels whisper-thin and can be compressed quite small for deploy-when-you-need carrying. The fit is all-around trending toward active, with minimal adjustability points: the hood only hosts a single cinch point, and the cuffs are elasticized instead of hook-and-loop closures. All this aims at keeping bulk and weight down

Using a hardshell while ski touring is the ultimate test of breathability, and here the Papsura performed better than almost any other shell I’ve tested this winter, easily staying fully zipped up on full approaches. The tradeoff for all of that breathability is overall waterproofing, where the Papsura taps out quicker than jackets made from GORE-TEX Pro membranes.

Anyone considering the Papsura ought to also take a good look at the Patagonia M10 Storm, a ~10-ounce hardshell that balances the waterproof-to-breathable equation a bit better (read: not as breathable as the Papsura, but waterproof for longer). The extra weight is due to a thicker 30D face fabric and more adjustability points. You’ll pay a bit more for it, but only just.

The breathability on the Papsura is really what sells it for fast and light adventures, however, which are typically quicker-paced, and thus needing to vent off some additional perspiration. If you’re after the lightest hardshell, you’re looking at it.

Other Hardshells for the Sharp End

The hardshell jackets I’ve highlighted above are the six our team of climbers, skiers, and expedition adventurers leans on the most in our travels, but they aren’t the only worthy options out there. Check out the list below of solid alternates that we’ve tested and trusted in the backcountry.

Rating Details

Weather Protection 8/10
Breathability 7/10
Comfort & Fit 8/10
Weight 8/10

Specifications

Material Construction
50D/20D 3L GORE-TEX ePE Pro + Hadron LCP
Waterproof Rating (mm)
28,000
Breathability Rating (RET)
<13
Fit
Regular
Pockets
Two Napoleon pockets
Weight
12.6 oz.
Best For
On-route alpine climbing where weight is a concern

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Hadron LCP face fabric cuts weight significantly while retaining strength
  • GORE-TEX ePE 50D membrane across the shoulders and sleeves
  • Excellent articulated cut
  • Generous helmet-compatible hood
  • Newly added RECCO reflector and internal dump pocket in 2025

Cons

  • Pricey
  • No two-way zipper
Nick Belcaster

After expanding the legendary Alpha line to include a rainbow of different specialized cuts, Arc’teryx has recently undergone a distillation to just three highly capable hardshells, and while the new Arc’teryx Alpha Jacket ($700) is said to have previously been the Alpha AR, I see it as an amalgamation of multiple of the best features of the previous shells, all mixed into one burly climbing-ready hardshell.

So what’s new? Plenty. Most notable will be the new Hadron LCP face fabric used across the jacket. The torso is covered in a 20D weave that incorporates ultra-fine threads of liquid crystal polymer into the ripstop (think a tough fishing net overlayed into the fabric). This greatly enhances durability, allowing for a much lighter fabric to be used overall, and improves breathability (and reduces weight, too).

Complementing that is a 50D GORE-TEX ePE Pro (which also utilizes the Hadron fabric) across the hood, shoulders, and sleeves — everywhere on a hardshell where mountaineering becomes a contact sport. It’s no 100D brick wall like the Alpha SV, but we found it well up to the task of thrutching around on ice and snow. 

The Alpha cut is decidedly longer in the rear and shorter in the front compared to the Beta line of jackets, which allows for easier high-stepping and protection from the elements while facing into a wall. In terms of feature set, the new Alpha Jacket sticks with the same set-up as the previous AR, incorporating Napoleon chest pockets, long underarm zips, and a broad protective hood that is helmet-compatible. 

Compared to the do-it-all Beta AR jacket, the Alpha is more climbing-focused, and is both lighter (13.1 ounces to the Beta’s 16) and packs down smaller thanks to the Hadron panels. The twin chest pockets are also better poised for access while on route, and the added RECCO reflector makes sense in deeper backcountry scenarios.

Similar to the Norrøna Trollveggen Pro Light or Rab Latok Mountain, the Arc’teryx Alpha Jacket is an excellent all-around climbing shell — primed for ice cragging one day, and ski touring the next. If your alpine adventures require you to be discerning about weight, this is a shell that’ll serve you well into the future.

Rating Details

Weather Protection 7/10
Breathability 8/10
Comfort & Fit 7/10
Weight 7/10

Specifications

Material Construction
75D 3L GORE-TEX ePE
Waterproof Rating (mm)
28,000
Breathability Rating (RET)
<13
Fit
Regular
Pockets
Two handwarming, two Napoleon chest pockets
Weight
1 lb., 1.6 oz.
Best For
All-around mountaineering, occasional ski touring, and sweaty climbers

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • TorsoFlo pit-to-hem zips provide incredible ventilation
  • Four front of jacket pockets
  • Helmet-compatible hood
  • Dual separating front zipper
  • Great value for the feature set and materials

Cons

  • Won't be as weatherproof as a GORE-TEX Pro shell
  • 75D exterior fabric is tough, but doesn't move the best
Nick Belcaster

It’s not quite the steal that the Patagonia M10 Storm is, but for a bit more, the Outdoor Research Headwall Jacket ($469) provides outsized value in an alpine-ready hardshell. On-the-go breathability is one of the most difficult issues to solve when grinding out vert, but the Headwall rolls down the windows with a novel solution we dug in practice.

For years, we have praised the hem-to-pit TorsoFlo ventilation zips on the OR Foray and Aspire jackets, and its application in an alpine-ready hardshell is head-smackingly genius. Because there are dual sliders on these vents you can still use them while wearing a harness, and when stacked up side-by-side in our breathability challenges (1,000 feet of vert with vents closed), this jacket is better than most.

Besides the big-deal vents, the rest of the Headwall is standard for a mid-tier hardshell these days: GORE-TEX 3-layer ePE keeps the price from reaching GORE Pro levels, but it is still plenty waterproof. The lesser membrane breathability is canceled out by those huge vents (in anything but a full drenching — when you’ll want them up). Four pockets stud the front of the shell, and none share any space between them, meaning they all can be filled.

The hood is helmet-compatible, and this alone will make the choice worth it for many climbers. We could fit both a climbing and a larger ski helmet underneath it. The cut on this jacket isn’t as trim as some of the shells we’ve tested and accommodates your typical mountaineering layering system.

The Mammut Crater IV HS is another mid-tier ePE shell that has some great value, but at the same weight, the Outdoor Research shell adds two additional pockets and those impressive side vents. With both shells being a similar burly 75D textile, we give the nod to the Headwall when it comes to a value-winner.

Rating Details

Weather Protection 7/10
Breathability 7/10
Comfort & Fit 8/10
Weight 8/10

Specifications

Material Construction
3L Toray Dermizax
Waterproof Rating (mm)
20,000
Breathability Rating (g/m²)
20,000
Fit
Roomy
Pockets
Two handwarming, one interior
Weight
15.4 oz.
Best For
General mountaineering, alpine rock climbing

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • 3L Toray membrane works impressively well
  • Lightweight at less than 1 pound
  • Nice roomy fit to accommodate layers underneath
  • Reflective details
  • Hood is nicely adjustable and helmet compatible

Cons

  • Pit zips only zipper in one direction
  • Not widely available to try on
  • Won't be as bombproof as a GORE-TEX Pro shell
Nick Belcaster

The Himali Monsoon Hardshell ($460) is a bit of a newer kid on the block, but that doesn’t mean it can’t hang with the best of them. We found the shell to be thoughtfully designed, durable, and shockingly weatherproof — exactly what you’d expect from a company co-founded by Tendi Sherpa, a 17-time Everest summiteer and IFMGA guide.

The Monsoon uses a Toray 20K/20K membrane, a part of Toray’s Dermizax line of fabrics, and a PFAS-free DWR. The result is a membrane rated 20,000 mm (the upper end of the waterproofing scale) that is also impressively breathable, at a standard 20,000 g/m². This breathability is only increased by the generous pit zips, making the Monsoon a great option for high-output alpine days. 

One of our favorite things about the Himali Monsoon was how high-quality it felt, particularly for a mid-tier priced harshell. The shell is not only on the upper end of waterproofing and breathability, but the fabric is also supple and silky on the inside, with soft fleece cuffs and collar. GearJunkie tester Chelsey Cook is a diehard Arc’teryx Beta AR fan, but even she had to admit that the palatably-priced Himali Monsoon offered more in the way of comfort than the scratchy-by-comparison Beta AR. 

In fact, she found the Monsoon and the Beta AR Jacket to be reasonably comparable despite the Himali’s cheaper price point. Both jackets feature three-way adjustable hoods with large bills that fit easily over a climbing helmet. The Himali Monsoon is also more comfortable than the Beta AR and has a two-way front zipper. We found that the women’s version had a more generous hem length and hip width than the Beta AR.

However, the Monsoon lacks the double zippers of the Beta AR’s pit zips and is not nearly as widely available as the Beta AR. If checking the fit of a hardshell before purchasing is a vital part of your shopping process, you may have a hard time finding the Himali Monsoon to try on in-store.

Rating Details

Weather Protection 8/10
Breathability 7/10
Comfort & Fit 8/10
Weight 7/10

Specifications

Material Construction
40D/70D 3L GORE-TEX Pro ePE
Waterproof Rating (mm)
28,000
Breathability Rating (RET)
<13
Fit
Regular
Pockets
Two Napoleon chest pockets
Weight
1 lb., 1 oz.
Best For
Any and everything alpinism

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Protective drop hem and wrist collars
  • Patterned face fabric design for increased durability
  • Unique ‘X-open’ pit zip design
  • Articulated cut

Cons

  • Limited adjustability in hood
  • Price
Nick Belcaster

While the name may not be familiar to some, the Norwegians behind Norrøna certainly know harsh weather — and how to protect against it. Norrøna was the first company to bring GORE-TEX to Europe, and since then has been refining its use for high-end hardshell wear like the Trollveggen Pro Light Jacket ($699).

This jacket certainly lives up to the history as well. The shell is a more well-rounded version of the company’s straight-ahead Trollveggen Jacket, a storm bunker that uses 70D fabric throughout. In contrast, the Pro Light aims to be a more active and svelte version, opting for a 40D GORE-TEX Pro ePE across the jacket, in addition to 70D reinforcements on the hood, shoulders, and elbows.

Given a “technical” fit label from Norrøna, the Trollveggen Pro Light is a bit trimmer than the rest of the brand’s more ski-focused shells, but that isn’t to say it’s snug. I find that Norrøna is second only to Arc’teryx when it comes to savvy articulated cuts that anticipate the maximum of motion the hardshell might expect to see during use.

Rounding out the alpine-centric feature set is a pair of Napoleon pockets on the chest, asymmetric wrist cuffs with generous hand protection, a two-way front zip, underarm pit zips, and a long drop hem that provides protection for your backside. Set beside other jackets in my mix, this compares well to the Arc’teryx Alpha SV.

The hood, while generous and made to fit climbing and ski helmets alike, is only wrangled by a single cordlock at the rear of the head — which I found to be a bit light in the adjustability department. Without the further ability to batter down the hatches, this hood can flap a bit more than other hardshells.

Ultimately, the Trollveggen Pro Light finds itself between two very good hardshells: it’s not quite as light as the on-route-ready Arc’teryx Alpha (at 13 ounces), and it’s not quite as versatile as the Beta AR (which is $50 cheaper than this shell). If your needs land right between those shells, however, the Norrøna shell can make perfect sense.

Rating Details

Weather Protection 7/10
Breathability 6/10
Comfort & Fit 7/10
Weight 7/10

Specifications

Material Construction
40D 3L GORE-TEX ePE
Waterproof Rating (mm)
28,000
Breathability Rating (RET)
<13
Fit
Regular
Pockets
Two handwarming pockets
Weight
14.8 oz.
Best For
Alpine climbing, general mountaineering

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Zero PFC build, down to the GORE-TEX ePE membrane
  • Two generous chest pockets, with clean profile
  • Hood gasket is insulated with synthetic fill
  • Wrist gaskets seal out snow
  • Jacket hem is cut for space to clip kit to harness

Cons

  • Breathability isn't the best for high-output endeavors like ski touring
  • Pit zips are a little small
Nick Belcaster

Made for a new generation of alpine climbers, the Patagonia Super Free Alpine Jacket ($625) makes some big departures from the typical recipe to brew up a hardshell jacket that’s ready to ascend into the high country — all while limiting your impact to the bootpack and some ice screw holes.

The big news here is the introduction of 3L GORE-TEX ePE, and while this is a huge advancement in the quest for a shell that isn’t so hard on the mountains we love to recreate in, it’s also not even half of the exciting new design functionality Patagonia brewed up for this jacket.

First up, an elasticized gasket at the top of the hood seals tightly to your helmet and is insulated with Patagonia’s synthetic PlumaFill. I’m gobsmacked that this hasn’t been thought of before, but its application in the Super Free Alpine is genius. Similarly, functional gaskets (non-insulated) seal both cuffs, and in practice, they both keep the sleeves in place while swinging tools and prevent snow from entering.

The hem of the jacket has been let in on both sides of the hips a few inches, in order to clear the landing zone for clipping your kit to your harness. Slick. Rounding out the feature set is a set of two-way underarm zips, hand-warming chest pockets, as well as two large drop-in stretch mesh pockets on the interior of the jacket for stowing gloves.

When it comes to the membrane, I found it to function about on par with classic 3L GORE-TEX, which means it’s not quite as impressive as GORE-TEX Pro (namely in breathability), but still very good for most uses. The new fabric still sports the same 28,000 mm waterproofing as the classic stuff, but suffers a bit at a RET of >13. So: ideal for swinging tools up spindrift, not the best for high-output speed runs.

The Super Free Alpine also comes in a bit under the typical 1 pound for a hardshell at 14.8 oz. (the thinner ePE membrane is to thank, here). The $625 you’ll pay for it is about the most you’ll pay for a GORE ePE shell, so you’re paying for the novel features. If you’re willing to give up GORE Pro, this shell can be a great option.

Rating Details

Weather Protection 7/10
Breathability 7/10
Comfort & Fit 7/10
Weight 6/10

Specifications

Material Construction
40D/80D 3L GORE-TEX Pro ePE
Waterproof Rating (mm)
28,000
Breathability Rating (RET)
<13
Fit
Regular
Pockets
Two handwarming, one Napoleon chest pocket
Weight
1 lb., 1.8 oz.
Best For
Ice climbing, mixed climbing

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Smart feature set execution
  • Helmet-compatible hood with impressive adjustability
  • Two-way front zipper
  • RECCO reflector

Cons

  • Front pockets share volume, which can get a bit snug
  • Sizing is a bit small
Nick Belcaster

Trust the Brits to nail the idea of a hardshell jacket. With two weights of GORE-TEX Pro ePE, a two-way harness-friendly zipper, and one of the best hoods I’ve draped over my noggin, the Rab Latok Mountain ($595) hits all the high points I’m looking for.

With 80D GORE across the shoulders and sleeves, and 40D elsewhere, this jacket aims to shore up the durability where it’s needed and cut the weight where it’s not. A YKK Vislon front zip brings it all together, and is two-way directional to accommodate easy belaying while maintaining good coverage. There’s even a snap to keep the jacket from flapping away while opened.

While it does sport a generous opening for a gloved hand, the single chest pocket, unfortunately, shares volume with the left-hand warmer pocket, and in circumstances where both are occupied it can be a fight to get storage out of either.

We’ve always been fans of the care that Rab gives to the hoods of their hardshells, and the Latok Mountain is no different. The hood is three-way adjustable, with concealed cordlocks for the side adjustments tucked away near the chin of the hood. A wire-stiffened peak stays where you want it, and the whole hood can be stowed away when not needed. 

Rounding out the Latok Mountain are 15-inch underarm pit zips that feature two different types of zipper pulls — one plastic, one knotted cord — to help with differentiating which will open or close the vents. A smart design, which is actually something we could say about the whole of this jacket.

The only fault we can find is that this jacket is a little on the snug side of a regular fit, meaning that while we could layer baselayers with a fleece, wearing a synthetic midlayer got a bit trim. Worn side by side, the difference is noticeable between this shell and something like the Arc’teryx Beta AR, which has better articulation built in. That said, the fit will work better for some than others, so the jacket is still a great option.

Rating Details

Weather Protection 7/10
Breathability 9/10
Comfort & Fit 8/10
Weight 6/10

Specifications

Material Construction
20D/70D 3L FUTURELIGHT
Waterproof Rating (mm)
Unavailable
Breathability Rating (g/m²)
75,000
Fit
Regular
Pockets
Two handwarming, one Napoleon chest pocket
Weight
1 lb., 3.8 oz.
Best For
Quick-paced, done-in-a-day alpine missions

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Excellent breathability
  • Hybrid fabric mapping bolsters moisture venting
  • Soft suede inserts in hood

Cons

  • Overall waterproofing suffers a bit for the breathability
  • Heavier overall
Nick Belcaster

With a classic alpine cut, tasteful feature set, and waterproof fabric that puts big breathability numbers up on the board, The North Face Summit Torre Egger Jacket ($590) is hard to deny. We’ve been big fans of the FUTURELIGHT membrane since it debuted in 2019, and it finds an excellent application in the Torre Egger, a hardshell that’s meant to be climbed in all day.

While most high-ranking hardshell jackets in our review utilize some form of GORE-TEX, The North Face has a distinct advantage with its FUTURELIGHT membrane, which boasts a breathability rate of 75,000 g/m². Unreal.

Adding to those impressive numbers is a hybrid fabric design on the Torre Egger, which uses a 70D recycled nylon across the body of the shell, and a 20D in the underarms to further increase moisture management. This cut is all sewn up with no shoulder seams to reduce wear areas, and gussets under the arms for full tool swinging ability.

So how does the Torre Egger stack up in the mountains? It can definitely hang. During my testing, I intentionally battened down the hatches and set about hiking up the hill, aiming to overwhelm the breathability. While no hardshell is magic, I can say that the Torre Egger held out the longest of any jacket in our review. The tradeoff, however, is in waterproofing, and while the official number isn’t shared, I’d estimate it’s between 15-20K — enough to notice water soaking under our pack straps.

The weight of the Torre Egger is also slightly more than comparable jackets, at around 1 pound, 4 ounces. The Arc’teryx Alpha jacket uses pretty similar weight face fabrics (a 50D/20D split), but it weighs 7 ounces less.

This jacket compares easily to the Arc’teryx Beta AR jackets when it comes to overall fit and function. Both utilize a premium waterproof membrane, similar prices, and features that put them in the middle-upper ends of their lines. The waterproofing on the Torre Egger gives us pause enough to recommend the Beta AR more often, but when you prioritize breathability over all else? Grab the Torre Egger.

Hardshell Jacket Comparison Chart

Hardshell JacketPriceMaterial ConstructionWaterproofing/BreathabilityPocketsWeight
Arc’teryx Beta AR $65040D/80D 3L GORE-TEX ePE Pro 28,000 mm / <13 RETTwo handwarming pockets1 lb.
Patagonia M10 Storm

$37930D 3L H2No Performance StandardN/A / N/ATwo Napoleon chest pockets10.9 oz.
Arc’teryx Alpha SV$900100D 3L GORE-TEX ePE Pro 28,000 mm / <13 RETTwo Napoleon chest pockets1 lb., 1.4 oz.
Ortovox Westalpen 3L Jacket
$6403L Toray Dermizax NX20,000 mm / 28,000 g/m²Two Napoleon chest pockets1 lb., 1.3 oz.
The North Face Papsura Jacket$390FUTURELIGHT 3LN/A / 75,000 g/m²Two handwarming pockets8 oz.
Arc’teryx Alpha Jacket$70040D/20D 3L GORE-TEX ePE + Hadron LCP28,000 mm / <13 RETTwo handwarming pockets13.1 oz.
Outdoor Research Headwall Jacket
$54075D 3L GORE-TEX ePE28,000 mm / <13 RETTwo handwarming, two Napoleon chest pockets1 lb., 1.6 oz.
Himali Monsoon Jacket

$4603L Toray Dermizax20,000 mm / 20,000 g/m²Two handwarming, one interior15.4 oz.
Norrøna Trollveggen GORE-TEX Pro Light$69940D/70D 3L GORE-TEX ePE Pro 28,000 mm / <13 RETTwo Napoleon chest pockets1 lb., 1 oz.
Patagonia Super Free Alpine Jacket
$62540D 3L GORE-TEX ePE28,000 mm / <13 RETTwo handwarming pockets14.8 oz.
Rab Latok Mountain GORE-TEX Pro$59540D/80D 3L GORE-TEX ePE Pro 28,000 mm / <13 RETTwo handwarming, one Napoleon chest pocket1 lb., 1.8 oz.
The North Face Summit Torre Egger$59020D/70D 3L FUTURELIGHTN/A / 75,000 g/m²Two handwarming, one Napoleon chest pocket1 lb., 3.8 oz.
Scroll right to view all of the columns
While rotor wash resistance wasn’t a necessary bar to clear in our testing, we still took a few shells through the spin cycle; (photo/Nick Belcaster)

How We Tested the Best Hardshell Jackets

From the craggy tumbles of the Rockies to the snow-plastered granites of the Sierra, GearJunkie hosts a healthy number of alpine climbers, skiers, and mountaineers who know the sting of a bad turn in the weather — and how to guard against it. Our collective knowledge is brought together here to help guide your next hardshell jacket decision.

Our Testing Process

  1. Field testing: The majority of our testing takes place on alpine climbing objectives in the North Cascades, with the 10,786-foot hulk of Kulshan (Mt. Baker) serving as our most standard test bed. We use the popular glacier routes on Kulshan to challenge these jackets in quasi-standardized field tests, averaging similar 5,000-foot vertical gain days in different shells. From walk-ups to WI3 alpine ice, we test the waterproofing, durability, and mobility of these shells. One of our testers also hails from Alaska, where she guides both mountaineering and backpacking objectives. She’s tested hardshells on Denali ascents, during packrafting expeditions in the Brooks Range, and while climbing and skiing in her backyard, which happens to be the head of a glacial valley where windstorms and blizzards are par for the course.
  2. Waterproofing shower challenge: Our bench testing begins with our standard shower test, where we wear hardshells while standing directly under the shower, which acts as a simulated rainstorm, for 10 minutes. Afterward, we check for moisture ingress inside the jacket, giving us a good idea of the quality of the waterproofing and seam sealing.
  3. Weight and packability verification: Weight and packability are also tested with the help of our scales and a standard 5-liter stuff sack. We like to independently verify these numbers to ensure accuracy, and often find that brands can slightly inflate their numbers.
  4. Our hardshell jacket rating system:
    • Weather Protection: 30% weighted. We take the results of both field and bench testing into account when rating for weather protection, and also consider the material protection you’ll receive from burly face fabrics. Alpine climbing can be a contact sport, after all.
    • Breathability: 30% weighted. Breathability is rated both with any mechanical venting closed and opened, and compared against known performers to understand where on the scale they land.
    • Comfort & Fit: 20% weighted. After fit and mobility testing on a few different climbers, we compare notes and rate for comfort and fit. Soft-facing materials in the collars, wrist closures that stay closed, and a long draping cut in the rear all amount to a higher rating.
    • Weight: 20% weighted. Finally, we rate these jackets on their overall weight. We’re willing to carry a bit more weight for extra weather protection when conditions are grim, so we don’t weigh this metric as heavily against a jacket’s overall rating.
Ski touring demands a lot of breathability from hardshell jackets, which is why we got a few tours in all of these shells; (photo/Nick Belcaster)

Our Expert Testers and Testing Locations

I, Senior Editor Nick Belcaster, am the principal tester of this review, and reside beneath the sheer rise of the North Cascades of Washington State — the perfect test bed when seeking out both precipitous vertical relief and poor weather. My gear testing ranges from camping tents to kayaks, but I also test rain jackets for GearJunkie, meaning I see all types of poor weather forecasts as an opportunity to challenge these shells.

In addition, I have prepared and outfitted many alpine climbers setting out on expeditions in the grand ranges of the Karakoram, Alaska Range, and Andean Cordilleras — guiding their equipment choices to best prepare them for weeks spent under unkind elements. I, along with several AMGA mountain guides, have spent years in the mountains to assess the worthiness of a range of hardshell jackets.

Alaskan mountain guide Chelsey Cook tested several women’s hardhells for this guide. She’s tested everything from four-season tents to pee funnels and enjoys thrashing gear in the Alaska Range, as well as the numerous peaks in her own backyard. She looks for hardshells that will stand up to the renowned wind and weather of the mountains she plays in for numerous seasons, and prioritizes gear that fits women’s bodies.

Contributor Seiji Ishii also rounds out our testing team, and with multiple first ascents on ice in Alaska, he’s the sharp end of our spear in hardshell testing. He’s taken multiple shells deep into the backcountry where failure isn’t an option, and that experience informs his opinion.

Rab Latok Mountain
The dry tooling crag is the perfect test bed for hardshell jackets, where wet conditions often meet awkward thrutching on rock; (photo/Erika Courtney)

Buyer’s Guide: How to Choose a Hardshell Jacket

When it comes to hardshell jackets, the beauty of having a shell that is simply tough lies in its utility across various outdoor activities. We’ve worn our hardshells in everything from in-bounds resort skiing to ice climbing to braving storm swells in a dinghy. 

The flip side of this versatility, of course, is the general confusion that arises when deciding which hardshell jacket is right for you. Below, we’ve delved into the details and backed it up with science to unravel exactly what makes a hardshell jacket so durable.  

We should note here the close cousins of the hardshell jacket — the softshell (or wind shell) jacket, as well as rain jackets. Hardshell jackets exist at the storm-battered fringe of the spectrum, where ultimate performance gives way to packability and weight. They often opt to add rather than subtract features, and prioritize ability in the mountains over all else.

If you’re looking for more ski styling, take a look at our Best Ski Jackets gear guide. And if ultimate performance is trumped by packability and versatility on your next outing, our Best Rain Jackets guide should steer you in the right direction. 

Mammut-Advanced-HS_2
Waterproofing, breathability, and durability are the three scales that every hardshell jacket looks to balance; (photo/Erika Courtney)

Waterproofness

Let’s rip the bandage off quickly here — given enough time, pressure, and wear, nothing is truly waterproof. However, given new and novel advances in textile technology, hardshell jacket manufacturers can get remarkably close. To better understand this dance, a little science is warranted. 

Waterproofness is a measure of the amount of water that a fabric can resist before it yields and allows it to pass through. Testing of waterproofness has been standardized, and waterproof fabrics will be subjected to these tests for over 24 hours to ensure long-lasting resistance. These tests will produce a number known as the hydrostatic head of the fabric, with greater figures relaying a stronger resistance to water over the long term.

While rain jackets boast waterproof ratings ranging from 5,000 to 20,000 mm, hardshell jackets typically maintain a minimum of 20,000 mm waterproofing, with specialist membranes often reaching the 30,000 mm mark. It is important to note that waterproofness and breathability are two metrics pulling in opposite directions of one another, and that superior water resistance will require some concessions in the breathability department.

  • 5,000 mm: Where technical rain outerwear for outdoors adventures begins
  • 5,000-10,000 mm: Waterproof under light rain or snow and no pressure
  • 10,000-15,000 mm: Waterproof under many conditions, except under pressure
  • 15,000-20,000 mm: Waterproof under heavy rain and snow
  • >20,000 mm: Waterproof under heavy rain, snow, and pressure

When the rubber meets the road, the waterproofness of a hardshell jacket comes down to not only this rating, but also the interplay between fabric construction, DWR finishes, and design aspects such as a tight drawing hood or snug wrist cuffs.

Breathability

Not every moment in your hardshell is going to be a static shiver bivy, and during the times you’re grinding out vert in your jacket, you’ll be sweating. Our bodies do this in order to cool ourselves down, but without built-in ventilation in our hardshell jacket, that moisture has nowhere to go — and overheating can occur.

In order to circumvent this, modern waterproof fabrics incorporate a certain amount of breathability into the weave, which can also be measured. These numbers can be stacked against each other to give an idea of relative breathability between different hardshells.

Ortovox Ortler Skins
The Toray Dermizax NX membrane used in many Ortovox shells was one of the most breathable in our testing; (photo/Erika Courtney)

MVTR and RET Testing

The Moisture Vapor Transmission Rate, or MVTR, has been the industry standard for some years when it comes to measuring the breathability of waterproof membranes. This rate can be measured through several different tests, but the most common metric used is expressed in g/m²/24 hours. Higher values on the MVTR test denote a better ability to pass moisture.

More budget-minded shells often host a lower MVTR rating, which may be slightly below the standard 20,000 g/m² rating we prefer in jackets designed for high-output activities. At the other end of the spectrum, specialized shells like The North Face Summit Torre Egger boast incredible values of 75,000 g/m².

The RET, or Resistance to Evaporation rating, has gained momentum in recent years, with the new GORE-TEX Pro membranes being notable adopters. This rating utilizes a simulated perspiration test, and the values presented here are the inverse of the MVTR, with lower values indicating a higher ability for moisture transfer. 

A jacket with a RET value of <6, such as the Mammut Nordwand Advanced HS Jacket, will really pump out perspiration and is rated as extremely breathable on the RET scale. Fabrics with a RET score of between 6 and 12 land in the highly breathable camp, and ratings of >12 are only moderately breathable. 

TNF Torre Egger
Air-permeable membranes like The North Face’s FUTURELIGHT rely on gaseous vapor transfer, versus diffusion, to move moisture out; (photo/Erika Courtney)

Waterproof Membranes

Waterproof membranes vary in their construction and claims, but all operate on a similar premise: keep rain from getting in, and keep perspiration moving out. Laminate membranes, like GORE-TEX, use an expanded film of specialty material known as polytetrafluoroethylene, or ePTFE, to accomplish this.

These ePTFE membranes have over 9 billion pores per square inch, each 20,000 times smaller than a water droplet, but 700 times larger than a water vapor molecule. This allows the membrane to resist water from the elements, but diffuse perspiration as it builds within the shell.

The other majority share of waterproof membranes are made using a very thin sheet of polyurethane, which is naturally hydrophilic and maintains breathability through diffusion. These membranes have historically been monolithic, meaning that they lack any pore structure, but new technologies are producing air-permeable membranes which pass air freely.

Arc'teryx Beta AR_4
Consider that a waterproof membrane also relies on its outer textile shell for protection, and that heavy packs can press water into the jacket given enough time; (photo/Erika Courtney)

GORE-TEX Pro 2.0 

The pinnacle of high-performance waterproofing since 2007, GORE-TEX Pro has been the gold standard that many reach for when undeniable weather protection is needed. Whereas traditional 3-layer GORE-TEX requires a thin polyurethane lining to protect its membrane, the Pro version lines itself with a Micro-Grid backer, and is made of several ePTFE membranes bonded together.

Since 2020, GORE-TEX Pro has been available in three different technology flavors, which not only allows for a better application while retaining high waterproofness, but provides for hybrid designs across a jacket to best apply certain attributes where they are needed.

  • Most Breathable: Better thought of as the ‘old’ Pro rolled forward, the Most Breathable variant utilizes lighter 30D face fabrics to bump up the membrane’s breathability to a RET score of <6 — and maintains the stellar 28,000 mm waterproof rating.
  • Most Rugged: Made to be abused, jackets built with the Most Rugged technology use face fabrics from 70D to 200D to really stand up to abrasion. The breathability is inhibited a bit at a RET of <9, but this is still solidly within the highly breathable rank.
  • Stretch: Able to stretch up to 12 to 20%, GORE-TEX Pro Stretch textiles can be used in areas of a jacket where mobility is key, such as between the shoulder blades or arms. The concession comes in terms of breathability, which comes in a RET value of <13.
There’s a reason most flagship hardshell jackets use GORE Pro — it simply works; (photo/Erika Courtney)

GORE-TEX 3-Layer ePE

The biggest news in waterproof membranes in recent years, the new ePE membrane from GORE-TEX meets the demand from manufacturers for an environmentally friendly PFC-free membrane (note: the ‘F’ in ePTFE stands for fluoro) by pivoting their expansion technology to use polyethylene instead of polytetrafluoroethylene. In doing so, GORE has been able to strip out the PFCs from within the membrane and still hit the 28,000 mm waterproof rating that GORE-TEX is known for.

But just as sure as there is no free lunch, the ePE membrane has to make a concession somewhere for its eco-chops, and that somewhere is in the breathability. At a rated RET of <13, jackets made with this material won’t be moving as much moisture as GORE-TEX Pro Most Breathable (<6), or even the middle of the road Most Rugged (<9).

Because of this, mechanical ventilation like underarm pit zips will be essential to keeping dry from the inside. Undoubtedly, ePE is going to be the next big thing in rainwear, however, it will remain to be seen if the industry can pry itself away from the undeniable performance of GORE-TEX Pro membranes.

Toray Dermizax NX

Dermizax NX is a polyurethane-based waterproof membrane that touts impressive breathability numbers — up to 40,000 g/m² — but perhaps more impressively hasn’t had to cut waterproofness in order to do so. At a rated 20,000 mm, this membrane balances the scales well.

Proprietary Membranes

Recent years have seen an influx of proprietary membranes brewed up specifically for manufacturers, allowing them to tweak and fine-tune parameters to suit their use. 

The North Face’s FUTURELIGHT membrane is among the new and exciting air-permeable membranes that have begun to take hold of the market. This version utilizes “nanospinning” of polyurethane in order to create a matrix of the material that is big enough to allow air to pass, but also sized to prevent rain from making its way in. 

Other notable proprietary membranes used in hardshell jackets today include Patagonia’s H2No Standard Performance, as well as Helly Hansen’s LIFA Infinity Pro.

GORE-TEX might be the big name, but it isn’t the only one. Proprietary waterproof membranes can boast impressive specs, and come in at lower prices; (photo/Erika Courtney)

Fabric Layers and Face Fabrics

No waterproof membrane exists in a vacuum, and most will require some protection on either side in order to work as designed. While 2- and 2.5-layer designs are common in rain jackets, most hardshell jackets worth its salt will be made with 3-layer construction. 

This construction will include a waterproof membrane, as well as an interior textile backer to protect against body oils, and a face fabric to resist abrasion and host a DWR finish.

Face Fabrics 

Combined with a hearty waterproof membrane, face fabrics are what make hardshell jackets truly hard. Ice and rock can chew up weaker shells with ease, so most hardshell jackets will be made with a thicker denier face fabric to shore up their overall durability. The expedition-ready Arc’teryx Alpha SV Jacket was the burliest contender in our showdown, with an impressive 100D face fabric.

Many hardshell jackets will use a hybrid face fabric design to gain the best of both worlds, opting for a more burly denier in high-wear areas such as the shoulders and sleeves, and using a lighter weave elsewhere to cut weight. In our testing, we found that an 80D/40D split was the most commonly used.

It’s important to note that face fabrics also play a large role in both breathability and waterproofing. The thicker a face fabric is, the more difficult it is to expel moisture, which is why some jackets like The North Face Summit Torre Egger use a lighter face fabric under the arms to really keep moisture moving.

Many jackets make use of a burlier denier face fabric across the shoulders where pack straps will contact the shell; (photo/Erika Courtney)

Durable Water Repellent Finish (DWR)

Like the moat before the castle, a durable water-repellent finish is the first line of defense against rain ingress in a hardshell jacket. These hydrophobic applications are what cause the “duck’s back” look of a new rain jacket shedding water, and are important in protecting the waterproof membrane from being overwhelmed prematurely. 

DWR finishes also play an important role in maintaining the breathability of a hardshell. After extended use or pressure, water can push past the DWR and soak into the face fabric, creating a physical barrier that prevents perspiration from being expelled. Keeping your DWR finish fresh can help prevent this, as well as frequently cleaning your hardshell to rid it of body oils, sunscreens, and dirt.

DWR finishes have historically been created from nasty polyfluoroalkyl substances called PFAS, which are heat-, oil- and water-resistant. Once released into the environment, PFCs/ PFAS, also known as forever chemicals, essentially remain there forever, entering the food chain and drinking water. High PFAS exposure has been linked to harmful health effects and the EPA has deemed that two PFAS are likely to be carcinogenic to humans

Numerous states have adopted policies around PFAS use, and several hardshell jacket manufacturers have eliminated the use of PFAS in DWR finishes. Currently, the Patagonia Super Free Alpine, the Patagonia M10 Storm Jacket, and the Himali Monsoon jackets are made without PFAS.

Patagonia Dual Aspect_3
The DWR finish of the Patagonia Dual Aspect jacket uses no PFCs, but still held up admirably in our testing; (photo/Erika Courtney)

Fit and Construction

Many of the hardshell jackets in our review sport an “alpine” fit, meaning that they have a bit more space than your typical rain jacket to accommodate more active insulation. Some, like the Ortovox Westalpen 3L, are cut a bit more trim with the high output of ski-mountaineering in mind. Others still are a bit roomier for the other side of the ski equation, when you’ll want to be wearing all the insulation you’ll need for the day at once.

When considering how to size your hardshell jacket, aim for a comfortable fit when wearing all of the layers you’ll wear while on the move — such as a baselayer, active insulation fleece or synthetic jacket, and potentially a softshell jacket. You’ll want to have enough length in the sleeves to be able to make overhead swings of an ice tool without lifting the hem too much.

Hardshells that are specifically designed for female bodies often have more room in the hip and chest. If you like the extra coverage of a longer hardshell, make sure the hem is wide enough to fit freely over your hips. The Women’s Patagonia M10 Storm, in particular, had ample room around the hips, while the Himali Monsoon in the same size was a little tighter. The Arc’teryx Beta AR fell in between the two.

Ample overhead reach is a big deal in hardshell jackets, where swinging ice tools or plugging gear can’t be inhibited; (photo/Erika Courtney)

Most alpinists will opt not to size their hardshell to fit over their large parkas, as these are typically deployed when temps are below freezing, and any precipitation you might encounter will be drier snow instead of a soaking rain. However, if you tend to run cold, you may consider sizing up; our tester in Alaska sizes up her harshells so she can comfortably fit a thin down jacket underneath for long and inevitably wet and windy days during the shoulder seasons.

Finally, components like a long drop hem (the portion of the hem that covers your backside), ample sleeve cuffs, and a helmet-compatible hood greatly up the protection that a hardshell jacket provides. We found the Norrøna Trollveggen Pro Light to have the best execution of these features.

Alpine-Specific Features

Two-Way Front Zips

A two-way front zipper can be a major upside for those who spend a lot of time in a climbing harness, as it allows for the belay loop to pass through the shell without the need of tucking in the jacket hem. This can also be employed to increase ventilation during tough climbs.

Rab Latok Mountain_3
Having a two-way zip means no more faffing to put on your shell at the belay. Just don and unzip to expose your belay loop; (photo/Erika Courtney)

Helmet-Compatible Hoods

Alpine climbing, mountaineering, and skiing all have their objective hazards, and you’ll want to wear a helmet to help mitigate those. A good hardshell jacket will accommodate for the extra space needed to wear one.

Climbing helmets are generally a bit lower profile than ski helmets, so ideally you should aim to try on your hardshell with your helmet to ensure there are no snug fit issues. Almost all hoods on hardshell jackets will include adjustable cords to fine-tune the fit.

Norrona Trollvegen Pro Light_6
A properly adjusted hood will track with your head as you look around. Remember that you’ll often be wearing a helmet beneath as well; (photo/Erika Courtney)

Pit Zips

Ventilation in a shell jacket can be essential to avoiding overwhelming the breathability, and the best way to crack open the windows on a hardshell is through the pit zips. These zippers run beneath the arms and can be opened during times of high exertion to vent off perspiration, all without exposing the climber to the elements.

While most zips in our review open with a two-way closure, the Norrøna Trollveggen Pro Light impressed us with its novel ‘X-open’ design that places the zipper pulls at either side of the zipper, as opposed to running together. This prevented the openings from catching the wind like sails.

Patagonia Dual Aspect_4
Mechanical ventilation through the pit zips can be essential to keeping moisture moving out of the jacket, certainly so during hard exertion; (photo/Erika Courtney)

Pockets

Exterior pockets on hardshell jackets come in two designs: those made for hand warming, and those made for storage. Hand-warming pockets are less often employed on hardshell jackets, as the activities they are designed for often don’t leave much time for standing around. One notable exception is the Arc’teryx Beta AR, where a focus on versatility prompts their inclusion.

Exterior storage pockets, in our opinion, are much more important — and most often come in the form of ‘Napoleon’ breast pockets. These pockets are accessed by reaching across the chest, and are placed above the fray of pack straps and harnesses for easy access. If you plan on using your hardshell on longer climbs or mountaineering objectives when you’re constantly in a harness, chest pockets are a must if you plan on accessing them throughout the day.

Finally, consider the zippers of your hardshell jacket’s pockets. Almost all will feature some type of water-resistant zipper, although many will still employ storm flaps, which are folds of fabric that help resist water intrusion. 

Norrona Trollvegen Pro Light
Chest-accessed pockets, like these on the Norrøna Trollveggen Pro Light, are ideal for alpine use where harnesses may block lower pockets; (photo/Erika Courtney)

Weight, Comfort, and Packability

A good hardshell jacket likely won’t be a welterweight champ, but advances in textile tech mean that hardshells are getting lighter and more packable as time goes on. A good example is the Arc’teryx Alpha SV: When this jacket debuted in 1998, it weighed in at 1 pound, 8 ounces, and today, it has trimmed half a pound off the trail weight.

Today, most hardshell jackets hover just north of the 1-pound mark, with some specialized shells like the Patagonia M10 Storm coming in as low as 10 ounces — though at a protection tradeoff. At the opposite end of the spectrum are the feature-rich and The North Face Summit Torre Egger jackets, which were some of the heavier shells.

The comfort of your hardshell shouldn’t be downplayed — not every adventure is going to be full-value, after all — and spending time in your hardshell can be made more enjoyable by a few niceties. High on our list is a microfiber lining on the inside of the collar, as well as a soft-to-the-touch jersey backer on the interior of the jacket.

And since you’ll need to stuff your shell jacket away at times, be mindful of overall packability. Most hardshell jackets won’t have an integrated stuff sack, but will fold well enough into their own hoods. Thinner denier face fabrics will have the edge over jackets made with extra burly weaves.

Norrøna Trollveggen In Front of Iceland Volcano
Snow and ice aren’t the only things a hardshell will protect from. During the recent Litli-Hrútur eruption in Iceland, we hid from volcanic cinders in our Norrøna shell; (photo/Erika Courtney)

Price & Value

To be sure, hardshell jackets are not typically cheap. Ranging from $350 all the way to $900(!) for the best-of-the-best, these are certainly investments into protecting yourself from the worst the environment can throw your way. That said, simply nabbing the priciest option won’t net you the perfect hardshell for what you’re after, so consider the routes you’re looking to climb or ski, the climate you’ll likely encounter, and the features you aren’t willing to leave at the belay.

Budget

There is a gradient where rain jackets become hardshell jackets, and we like to see a true 3-layer waterproof membrane, helmet-compatible hood, and alpine-friendly features such as high chest pockets and chunky wrist closures before calling a shell as such. Paying between around $350 and $450 with get you a solid budget hardshell, with GORE-TEX ePE membrane being standard these days.

The downside of going with ePE is that the membrane breathability is a little more stuffy at a RET of <13, but savvy shells like the Outdoor Research Headwall ($469) get away with it by adding huge vent zips. The Patagonia M10 Storm ($379) is also a great budget option, though there are no pit-zips or two-way zippers. The Himali Monsoon ($440) is on the upper end of the budget spectrum, but the extra cost gets you pit zips, a two-way zipper, and a more protective hood.

Mid-Tier

Paying between $550 to $650 will open up plenty of more features, waterproof membrane options, and tougher exterior textiles. GORE-TEX Pro ePE is the standard here, though there are some specialized membranes like the FUTURELIGHT on The North Face Summit Torre Egger ($590) that perform as well. You’ll often see more alpine features here, such as two-way front zips, large internal stuff pockets, and nicer waterproof zippers.

The Arc’teryx Beta AR Jacket ($650) has been our mid-tier top pick for a few years now, and it’s got all the right stuff: a versatile feature set, burly 40/80D face fabric blend, and a great fit for layering beneath. If you only need one hardshell, it’s hard to go wrong here.

Premium

Paying $700+ for a hardshell means you’re into some serious stuff outdoors, and need a jacket to keep up. The Arc’teryx Alpha ($700) is tailored for the rigors of ice and mixed climbing, and use different blends of GORE-TEX ePE Pro to get there. In the Alpha, you’re paying for a super lightweight but extra tough Hadron LCP face fabric.

The $900 Arc’teryx Alpha SV is a pricey jacket, no doubt, but it’s also about the toughest shell we’ve ever put our hands on. The 100D face fabric has turned away errant stabs from ice screws, and the cut is tremendously good, with plenty of articulation for swinging tools overhead.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between hardshell and softshell jackets?

The difference between a hardshell and a softshell boils down to breathability and protection. Softshell jackets emphasize breathability, as well as being able to turn a stiff wind and help to retain body heat. Hardshell jackets are made to provide protection from the elements, and while they offer some breathability, they have a limit to how much they can handle.

Is anything better than GORE-TEX?

While GORE-TEX has been the de-facto ruler of the waterproof market since its invention, there are a number of different waterproof membranes of merit that emphasize different facets of the waterproof/breathable equation.

The robust waterproofing of an ePTFE membrane like GORE-TEX is undeniable, but the advent of air-permeable membranes that elevate breathability to previously unheard-of levels will be an attractive option for those who will be climbing or skiing without stopping.

What do you wear under a hardshell?

The beauty of a hardshell jacket is its interior volume for layered insulation. Under a hardshell, a typical mountaineer or alpinist might wear something like this: A baselayer top or sun hoody, followed by a thin gridded fleece or synthetic fill active insulation piece. 

Because of the importance of keeping a waterproof membrane clean, we always attempt to wear long sleeves underneath our jackets, as body oils can clog the pores of a membrane.

Should I size up for a hardshell jacket?

Hardshell jacket sizing typically takes into account that they are meant to be worn over active insulation, and will most often reflect the jacket size you most typically wear in outerwear. Sizing up a hardshell jacket can be an attractive option for those who require more protection, such as skiers, but for alpine climbers and mountaineers, this will often make for excess material.

Some manufacturers have earned a reputation for a specific type of fit, though we would warn against making broad assumptions when deciding on a hardshell based on these alone. Arc’teryx often produces jackets with a trimmer alpine fit, while jackets from Patagonia are a bit boxier. European brands such as Ortovox and Rab also tend to be a bit slimmer.