Climbing access on the East Coast is a tricky thing: Since most of the land here is privately owned (unlike the West), public access can change quickly. If a landowner decides they don’t want climbers on their land — that’s that.
The same thing happened 22 years ago at Red River Gorge, a classic sport climbing destination in Kentucky. A landowner revoked public access to two major climbing areas: Oil Crack and the Arena.
And they stayed empty for over 2 decades — until now. On April 21, the Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition (RRGCC), the nonprofit that manages climbing in the area, announced a new arrangement to finally bring back climbing to these two crags, which total 130 acres with 83 routes.
How It Happened
The story dates back to 2004, when the RRGCC made its first-ever land acquisition to protect climbing access. For years before that, many climbers had been visiting parts of Red River Gorge known as the Pendergrass–Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP).
But this nonprofit purchase of the land secured that climbers could continue to access the area. In an interview with GearJunkie, RRGCC board members explained that when they closed on the PMRP deal, they (and the seller) believed it included the adjacent crags of Oil Crack and Arena.
“It was not until months after closing that it emerged that another buyer was working simultaneously to purchase those tracts of land — which led to a strict climbing ban when that deal went through in April of 2004,” said Tara Taylor, RRGCC’s marketing director.
The nonprofit worked for years to regain access, with new rounds of discussions every time the land changed owners. None of these efforts came to fruition.
But recently, the land changed hands again, and the new owner, Lori Morel, “was willing to continue the dialog with mutual understanding and a shared desire to be good neighbors,” Taylor said.
The lease agreement, which was signed in early 2026, is subject to renewal every 3 years. Essentially, RRGCC pays Morel a sum to allow climbing access. This type of arrangement will require good behavior from climbers.
“This sort of agreement is rare in the Red River Gorge, and demands a certain level of stewardship and respect from the RRG climbing community. These crags are located in a working landscape, which means that oil operations will be ongoing, and climbers can expect to see that sort of thing when these crags are opened to the public,” Taylor said.
What Happens Next
These crags aren’t quite ready for climbers. The RRGCC will need to build trails and infrastructure to ensure climbers can get to the cliffs without negatively impacting the environment. The organization estimates it will need $60,000 for “trail mapping, trail cutting, rock work, belay base stabilization, and erosion control methods.”
It’s currently conducting a public fundraiser to accomplish these goals. Those who donate are eligible to win prizes from Black Diamond, The North Face, and Blue Water Ropes. The RRGCC is hoping to get these crags open by fall 2026.
Why It Matters
For climbers, this is a major victory. These crags don’t just have routes: They’ve got classic, must-do routes —the kind of routes many climbers dream about projecting, with grades ranging from 5.8 to 5.14c. RRGCC says that the areas include 20 high-quality 5.12s, a grade that appeals to many outdoor climbers.
Moreover, while the Red does have thousands of routes, it also sees more than 100,000 climbers annually. Popular crags can easily get overrun on fall and spring weekends. On a basic level, more crags act as a release valve: More crags will hopefully disperse climbers across more locations. Not only does this improve people’s experiences, but it should also lessen the environmental impact that overuse can have on the rock.
In a context where access can be here one day and gone the next, long-term access like this is a major win for rock climbers.
In 2025, climbers lost access to several areas in the Red River Gorge when a landowner decided they didn’t want climbers on their land. Just this week, a major crag near Boston was shut down due to landowner demands.
There’s also an element of nostalgia for people who have been coming to Red River Gorge for decades.
“The return of these crags is a really special homecoming for those who have been climbing in the Red for decades. It means a lot to those folks who remember climbing there when these areas were first developed, or who personally remember when access was lost to these crags,” RRGCC’s marketing director said.
“The local community has also always been aware of these crags, and rumors continually circulate about the quality climbing located just a short walk away from some of the most highly trafficked crags in the Red.”
