Home > Paddling

Into The Mind Of A Big Wave Surfer

Written by Sean McCoy
Support us! GearJunkie may earn a small commission from affiliate links in this article. Learn More

Riding towering waves is dangerous, but the men and women who do it are far from reckless. Greg Long, a renowned big wave surfer and CLIF Bar athlete explains his motivations for riding waves that would keep many surfers on shore.

Writer and editor Sean McCoy
Sean McCoy
2,629 articles

Sean McCoy is the Editorial Director of GearJunkie, and 5+ other AllGear websites.

He has been writing about hunting, fishing, trail running, camping, skiing, and more for 15+ years.

Prior to GearJunkie, he was the chief photographer for the Virgin Islands Daily News and former editor-in-chief for GearJunkie. Based in Denver, Colo., McCoy is an avid trail runner, camper, hunter, angler, mountain biker, skier, and beer tester.

Gear Up and Get Out

Subscribe Now

Get adventure news and gear reviews in your inbox!