Into The Mind Of A Big Wave Surfer

Riding towering waves is dangerous, but the men and women who do it are far from reckless. Greg Long, a renowned big wave surfer and CLIF Bar athlete explains his motivations for riding waves that would keep many surfers on shore.

Sean McCoy
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Editorial Director Sean McCoy is a life-long outdoorsman who grew up hunting and fishing central Wisconsin forests and lakes. He joined GearJunkie after a 10-year stint as a newspaperman in the Caribbean, where he learned sailing and wooden-boat repair. Based in GearJunkie's Denver office, McCoy is an avid trail runner, camper, hunter, angler, mountain biker, skier, and beer tester.

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