Home > Paddling

Into The Mind Of A Big Wave Surfer

Support us! GearJunkie may earn a small commission from affiliate links in this article. Learn More

Riding towering waves is dangerous, but the men and women who do it are far from reckless. Greg Long, a renowned big wave surfer and CLIF Bar athlete explains his motivations for riding waves that would keep many surfers on shore.

Subscribe Now

Get adventure news and gear reviews in your inbox!

Join Our GearJunkie Newsletter

Get adventure news and gear reviews in your inbox!