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Sauter, Smith-Gobat Earn Women’s Speed Record on El Capitan

Mayan Smith-Gobat and Libby Sauter can absolutely blitz cliffs. Speed climbing on 'El Cap' takes intensive teamwork, plenty of creativity, and nerves of steel.

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To state the obvious: A speed record on The Captain is a big deal.

Climbers have been chasing speed on El Cap virtually since the dawn of climbing in the United States. (Well, some climbers have been, anyway.)

Each new generation has pushed the envelope further with tactics that are less and less distinguishable from death wishes. Don’t believe me? Watch Dean Potter describe his and Sean Leary’s “strategy” for the boot flake (skip to 2:05).

Simply put, to do a speed run on the Big Stone, you’ve gotta go where eagles dare. And it just so happens Mayan Smith-Gobat and Libby Sauter know how to fly.

The two big-wall veterans chase history in this concise video about their 2014 record attempt. Learn about their tactics, their preparation, their personal histories, and — most importantly of all — their bond.

Runtime: 4 minutes

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