Climbing

Arrested by Machines: Europe’s Lead Climbing Auto-Belay Targets US Gyms

It was only a matter of time. For years, our machine overlords caught our gym climbing falls from above. Now, auto-belays can catch climbers on…

Written by Sam Anderson December 02, 2021

Trad Bouldering? Austrian Climber Sends First Repeat of 5.14c ‘Into the Sun’

Lately, climber Jacopo Larcher, hailing from Tyrol, Austria, has been toying with the peculiar line between trad climbing and bouldering. His most recent ascent fits…

Written by Sam Anderson December 02, 2021

Alex Megos Gets 1st Repeat on 2 Will Bosi Siurana Test Pieces

In March 2021, Will Bosi put up two of Siurana’s hardest routes. Alex Megos repeated both crimpy lines (5.15c, 5.15b) within the last 10 days.

Written by Sam Anderson December 01, 2021

The Polar Grit X Pro Is a Wrist-Based Navigator, Trainer, and Fitness Tracker

Polar raises the bar with the Grit X Pro multisport watch. It now has built-in GPS and navigation, improved heart-rate tracking, and a rugged build.

Trango Agility 9.8 Review: The Rope Most Climbers Need Most of the Time

The Trango Agility 9.8 is rated to 13 falls, making it a workhorse go-to rope for everyday crag or gym climbing.

Written by Seiji Ishii November 30, 2021

Custom(ish) Fit: Hestra’s Carefully Crafted Belay Glove Review

They’re not actually custom-made, but the fit makes Hestra’s Climbers Short 5-finger belay gloves feel like they were made just for you.

Written by Sam Anderson November 30, 2021

Uncut Send Footage: Megos Climbs Possible 5.15c ‘King Capella’ in Spain

Watch one of the world’s best climbers on the first repeat of ‘King Capella,’ which could be the world’s sixth 5.15c sport route.

Written by Jilli Cluff November 30, 2021

New Film Follows Mountaineer’s Ascents Up World’s 14 Tallest Mountains

Coming to Netflix on Nov. 29, ’14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible’ documents Nirmal Purja’s quest to bag the world’s highest summits in record time.

Written by Jilli Cluff November 29, 2021

‘Torn’: An Unflinching Homage to Alex Lowe, by His Son

In ‘Torn,’ Max Lowe reckons with his father’s death. On one level, the film is a eulogy to Alex Lowe; on another, it’s a trauma…

Written by Sam Anderson November 26, 2021

Slovenian Alpinists Nab First Ascent of Himalayan Chobutse NW Face

Two Slovenian alpine climbers made the first ascent of the impressive northwest face of Chobutse (21,935 feet) in Nepal’s Rolwaling Valley. The 5,577-foot free climbing…

Written by Sam Anderson November 23, 2021

USFS Abandons Ten Sleep Management Plan, Keeps New-Routing Ban

In 2019, the Forest Service drafted a management plan for Ten Sleep Canyon amid ethics and development conflicts. Now, the plan is derailed.

Written by Sam Anderson November 18, 2021

Old and Bold: 93-Year-Old Rock Climbs for the First Time, Can’t Get Enough

At 93, Marie Dorbin put in a solid first climbing session. The Brit climbed four routes at the gym, impressing her instructor and onlookers.

Written by Sam Anderson November 16, 2021

Ouray Ice Park Overcomes Rockfall, Community Discord to Open for the Season

This summer, extensive repairs and cleanup at the Ouray Ice Park generated friction between multiple stakeholders. Although collaboration between public and private interests often proved…

Written by Sam Anderson November 15, 2021

Russians Put Up Nails-Hard Alpine First Ascent, Nearly Don’t Make It Down

The first ascent of Kyrgyzstan’s Peak Kosmos (19,494 ft.) took a 7-day push. Its grade is the hardest in the Russian alpine system: 6B (ED3).

Written by Sam Anderson November 15, 2021

Carabiner Malfunction: Petzl Recalls Scorpio Eashook Via Ferrata Lanyard

Petzl issued a recall for every Scorpio Eashook sold in 2021. The brand says the carabiner gates may stop functioning, compromising safety.

Written by Sam Anderson November 15, 2021

Client Sues Climbing Guide for Dislodging Fridge-Sized Block, Letting Go of Rope

One man is suing a climbing guide and ACMG for alleged “negligence and breach of contract” that lead to a near-fatal climbing accident.

Written by Jilli Cluff November 12, 2021

Alex Honnold & Cody Townsend Join Forces, Link Crater to Mt. Whitney on ‘Uncomfortable’ Route

From Badwater Basin to the top of Mt. Whitney, Townsend and Honnold gain nearly 14,800 ft of elevation by human power alone — if they…

Written by Jilli Cluff November 10, 2021

Ukrainians Make First Ascent of Annapurna III Southeast Ridge, 40 Years After First Attempt

On Nov. 6, three Ukrainian climbers summited Annapurna III (24,786 feet) via the Southeast Ridge. The 7,500-feet route was highly coveted.

Written by Sam Anderson November 09, 2021

Climbers Purchase ‘House Boulders’ to Boost IL Climbing Access

‘House Boulders’ is a new, 20-acre corridor acquired by the Access Fund and ICA. It offers 70+ problems and a potential boost to the economy.

Written by Jilli Cluff November 09, 2021

Raven Tor Tear: Bosi Climbs Crag’s Last Open Project, Proposes 9a+ (5.15a)

‘Brandenburg Gate’ was the last unfinished project at Raven Tor, England’s most revered sport climbing cliff. On Sunday, Scotsman Will Bosi sent it in short…

Written by Sam Anderson November 08, 2021

Controversy: Himalaya Climbers Raided Cache to Snag Tengkangpoche Ascent

On October 30, two climbers stood atop the north pillar of Tengkangpoche (21,283 ft.) with a proud first ascent. But did they steal gear to…

Written by Sam Anderson November 05, 2021

Janja Garnbret Snags First Women’s 8c/5.14b Onsight, Building Her Legend

With 29 IFSC Climbing World Cup gold medals and Olympic gold, the Slovenian is arguably the most successful competition climber ever. Janja Garnbret can climb…

Written by Sam Anderson November 05, 2021

‘Dodo’s Delight’ Climber and Friends Establish 8 New Big-Wall Routes in Greenland

It was another busy climbing season in the Arctic for the ever-energetic Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll and his band of musical first ascensionists. Over 3 months,…

Written by Sam Anderson November 04, 2021

First Repeat: Bosi Conquers McClure’s ‘Mutation’ 23 Years Later, Upgrades to 5.15a

Twenty-three years after Steve McClure’s first ascent, ‘Mutation’ at Raven Tor finally sees its first repeat.

Written by Sam Anderson November 02, 2021

Climbing on ‘Molecules’: Adam Ondra Ticks Staggering 68th 5.15

Adam Ondra has spent such a long time locked off at the top of the sport climbing world, he can’t even remember what the rest…

Written by Sam Anderson October 28, 2021

Ouray Ice Park Speeds to Recovery After Rockfall Destruction

This March, rockfall ripped through the famed Ouray Ice Park, damaging an oft-used access bridge and cutting off the water supply for some routes. No…

Written by Sam Anderson October 28, 2021

Safer Skinny Rope: Cut-Resistant Edelrid Swift Protect Pro Dry 8.9 Review

Edelrid claims it cracked the code and has a bona fide, cut-resistant dynamic single climbing rope. We put it to the test.

Written by Seiji Ishii October 27, 2021

Upcoming Film ‘The Wall – Climb for Gold’ Documents Climbing’s Olympic Debut

‘The Wall – Climb for Gold’ follows Janja Garnbret, Shauna Coxsey, Brooke Raboutou, and Miho Nonaka for 2 full years as they prepared to compete…

Written by Austin Beck-Doss October 25, 2021

Climbing ‘Gold Mine’ Hanging Mountain Opens to Public

This October, a tiny town in Massachusetts’ Berkshires became the site of a climbing access victory that benefits all parties involved. After 2 years of…

Written by Sam Anderson October 25, 2021

Climbing Goes Anime: Check Out Sweeping ‘The Summit of the Gods’ Trailer

Opening in select theaters on Nov. 24 is a feature-length anime film, “The Summit of the Gods.” It’s about Mount Everest, its allure, and the…

Written by Jilli Cluff October 25, 2021

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